stevlars Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Our 1985 Dolphin (22re) has been sitting for most of the last 4 months. We took it out on a drive today and when idling, about every 5 seconds a loud "click" could be heard coming from near the coil and isolator. At the clicking sound, the engine would almost die, but then quickly resume smooth idle. I put my head in the engine compartment and the click seemed to be coming from the coil. Strangely, by the time we got home (about a 50-mile drive) the clicking noise had stopped. I would like to know what was doing this so we don't break down in an isolated area. Suggestions on how to test for this (or links to other posts - I searched a few times, but couldn't find anything similar)? Thanks. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 The clicking sound is a high voltage spark that should be going to your spark plug but is going somewhere else. On startup, the air may have been more humid, reducing the resistance. With engine heat, the moisture dissipated and your problem disappeared. Your engine probably needs a tune up. Large gaps on the plugs increase the resistance to the flow of the electricity. The rotor may be worn down, increasing the resistance to the desired path. The distributor cap may have burned areas where the arc is occurring. Check by examining your rotor, cap, plugs. By the time you do this, it is just as easy to put new ones back in. Rotor and cap , you can do it yourself in 20 minutes. Plugs take a little longer, especially if they've been there a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 start it up in a pitch black nite open the hood look for leaking plug coil wires . I done this years ago and they were so bad I could check the firing order by counting the flashes on the plug boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevlars Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Thanks for your suggestions. I took them all into account. Went out in the dark last night to check if I could see spark - couldn't. This morning I decided to WD-40 all connections, loosen bolts/nuts, clean as necessary and retighten. The (what I now know is the) circuit breaker (between battery isolator and house battery) bolts and connections were very rusty. When I went to unbolt, both bolt posts broke right off. So, I removed the circuit breaker and removed the 1 foot section of wire coming from the battery isolator, started the Dolphin and now there is no clicking. I'm thinking the circuit break may have been shot and spark was arcing or something. I don't know much, but I hope that this is the problem and will be an easy fix. Thanks for your adice as it helped rule out some things. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 make sure to replace with same rated unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevlars Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Okay. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 It is a 30-35 amp automatic reset breaker most auto parts stores will have them. Now here is the problem when your engine slowed down it was because some thing was drawing a lot of current making the alternator work over time. Obviously you'll need to replace the breaker but that probably is not the problem. There are usually two one for the truck battery set up the other for the coach you'll need to figure out what one was causing the issue. It sounds like the breaker was doing it's job that is the way they work if it shorted it gets hot and disconnects it cools off and does it all over again so you'll need to find out why it was clicking look for some thing that has changed new battery maybe? If so be sure the cables are correctly connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevlars Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 It is a 30-35 amp automatic reset breaker most auto parts stores will have them. Now here is the problem when your engine slowed down it was because some thing was drawing a lot of current making the alternator work over time. Obviously you'll need to replace the breaker but that probably is not the problem. There are usually two one for the truck battery set up the other for the coach you'll need to figure out what one was causing the issue. It sounds like the breaker was doing it's job that is the way they work if it shorted it gets hot and disconnects it cools off and does it all over again so you'll need to find out why it was clicking look for some thing that has changed new battery maybe? If so be sure the cables are correctly connected. Okay. I'll check to see why the draw of current making the alternator work so hard. Regarding the circuit breaker, do you think there would be a problem replacing with a 50amp circuit breaker? I couldn't make out what the old one said and it seemed with some of the kits I saw online that a 50amp circuit breaker was standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Amazon has the Camco breakers but the Images were swapped on the 30 amp straight (plastic) and 30 amp 90 degree (metal case). I wanted one of each so it worked out OK. Don't know if they have fixed this, last time I looked they had the right part # but the wrong image, so be sure to check Camco's web page to get the one you want. I think 50 amps way too much for anything near wire sizes that come with these RV's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Okay. I'll check to see why the draw of current making the alternator work so hard. Regarding the circuit breaker, do you think there would be a problem replacing with a 50amp circuit breaker? I couldn't make out what the old one said and it seemed with some of the kits I saw online that a 50amp circuit breaker was standard. Size of the circuit breaker you use is determined by the size of the wire it is protecting. It is there to prevent a fire. I.e. the breaker is supposed to trip before the wire gets so hot it starts a fire. General rule-of-thumb is 30 amps on a 10 gauge wire, 50 amps for #8 wire, 65 amps for # 6 wire, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 did your batterys stay charged all that time a dead battery will freeze buckling the plates shorting it out and tripping the breaker when trying to charge it and may cause a high charge rate . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevlars Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 I should have written this post a month ago: My problem is resolved. Slightly embarrassing, but I finally took it to my mechanic and they found that someone (I) had reversed polarity (cables) on the house battery. Switching the cables back fixed the problemo. Just maybe this "fix" will help someone else save $100. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad wolfe Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 did the polarity reversal do any damage to the coach electrical s ystem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevlars Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 Not that I can tell, so far. I've run everything electrical with the exception of the acu-gauge and they work fine (lights, furnace, water pump). The acu-gauge has a short or something and tends to be sporadically operational. There are quite a few wires going to the house battery and I need to color code them. It's such a tight fit and to remove the battery I have to disconnect the wires as they are not long enough to disconnect after removing the battery... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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