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Cooktop Installation


jmowrey

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I am going to replace my range with an Atwood 3-burner cook top. The installation looks pretty straightforward, though I will need to shorten the copper gas line after it enters the cook top in order to connect it to the new unit.

Is it safe, and legal, to use compression fittings on the copper tubing for the propane? I'm concerned I won't be able to get a flaring tool into that tight space to flare the pipe in order to use flare fittings. Plus, I'm reading that if I use a cheap flare tool to flare the pipe, my flare joints may not be reliable. I would rather not spend $70 bucks on a better flare tool I will only use one time. Seems to me the compression fitting would be the more reliable way to go in this case.

Thanks!

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Can't answer your question directly, I can only add a possible option. When I was working on my camper, I bent the pipe that connected to my cooktop. I took my camper down to the local propane store (actual store specializing in propane appliances and all that), and they bent and fitted a new pipe to replace the bent one. They only charged me for the parts.

I brought it to the same place for some slightly more complicated work, and that time they charged me for an hour labor, also.

But if this job could be as simple as taking out the old line, matching the bends, but just making it a little shorter, it's probably worth checking if they'd just do it.

Problem is, it's kinda weird to ask if they'll do it for free...so if you decided to do it this way, it would be best to make sure it's a very simple, straightforward job (guy isn't having to crawl all over and contort himself and get dirty), and be prepared to actually pay for a half hour or whatever for labor. Then hopefully not get charged for it...

But hopefully your idea will work and is safe.

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I am going to replace my range with an Atwood 3-burner cook top. The installation looks pretty straightforward, though I will need to shorten the copper gas line after it enters the cook top in order to connect it to the new unit.

Is it safe, and legal, to use compression fittings on the copper tubing for the propane? I'm concerned I won't be able to get a flaring tool into that tight space to flare the pipe in order to use flare fittings. Plus, I'm reading that if I use a cheap flare tool to flare the pipe, my flare joints may not be reliable. I would rather not spend $70 bucks on a better flare tool I will only use one time. Seems to me the compression fitting would be the more reliable way to go in this case.

Thanks!

There is no law that dictates what kind of gas lines you choose to use in your own camper. Are compression fittings safe for gas main-line hook-ups? HECK NO as far as I'm concerned. Are they are ever used in supply-line installations? HECK NO again. Flare-fittings are pretty much the industry standard (with soft metal) or pipe threads a standard with black iron pipe (never galvanized). That all said, compression fittings are used at times for gas lines that are protected from impact like inside appliances. Often for parts that do not have pressurized gas like burner tubes or pilot tubes. Compression-fittings are inferior to flare-fittings for several reasons. One is they rely on the OD of tube to be perfectly smooth for a good seal. Also when tightened - the clamping force is low since once you tighten to a certain point, the wall of the tube collapses and shrinks, instead of making the joint tighter.

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for my thoughts I aways use flare fittings .I don't have the more costly double flair tool I use my good brand old forge single wall flaring tool I check my joints and ends old tube is more likely to crack. I tighten very tight .and never had a problem. I think some one said I am not shure that in the old days they didn't use double flares on thes rvs I know my 78 did not have them. I myself will not use compression fittings on gas.

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The factory uses single flares on the fittings I don't. Compression fittings are a big no-no with propane.

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for my thoughts I aways use flare fittings .I don't have the more costly double flair tool

I wouldn't call a double-flaring tool "costly," $20 at Harbor Freight or at Advance Auto. Not generally required for propane though. I just installed 100 feet of underground propane line to an outdoors 500 gallon tank with twin, "hi-low" regulators. It all had to pass inspection. I used all single-flares with copper tubing (plastic covered). Getting the correct flare-nuts to match the line was my only issue. At first I thought there were special flare nuts to match the OD of the plastic covered copper. Nope. Plastic gets stripped off and the nuts then get sized to the bare copper.

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You dont need a double flare for a fitting that will have 11 inches wc or less than 1/2 # of pressure on it. We used single flares on refrigerant lines that had 250# pressure on them with no problems. On brake lines you want double flares.

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Single flares have a tendency to crack particularly if they are over tightened a crack will leak even at 11". A double flare is more resistant to vibrations and movement and I believe it is now code for gas pipe. A double flare is easy to make and definitely is stronger.

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