stevlars Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 We are in Cedar City, Utah. Auto trans in Dolphin went out climbing Cedar Canyon (up to 8% grades). We were coming from Oregon and the Dolphin had been doing fine. Was told by trans shop mechanic that third gear was shot (when he did the rebuild). We've not had the Dolphin long, so I suspect this failure was due to the cummulative effects of others driving habits. I rarely use overdrive and I could probably do without it. Seems like before I'd read anything about the OD when I did use it as a 4th gear it was frequently going in and out of OD. I think I know now that this is not good for the trans. The trans has now been rebuilt, but they want to replace the overdrive solenoid with a "plate" to totally disarm overdrive. They think the solenoid may be leaking. I'm not sure and am going to drive it some to see. When the trans went out, a seal gave way and we were spewing fluid onto the road. It may be possible that trans fluid covered the solenoid at that time. Does anyone have experience with or have you heard of solenoids failing so that trans fluid leaks via the solenoid? Thanks. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 I don't know what the charge for the plate is, but a little research will find you a Volvo solenoid, that fits your transmission, for a bunch less that the Toyota factory part. P.S. your transmission was not made by Toyota. The output bushing being worn is the cause for most transmission failures. Do you have an external transmission cooler installed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevlars Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 They say the plate will be about $30 and that it takes about 10 minutes to remove the solenoid and install the plate. Yes, we have an external transmission cooler and I had a new CSF metal radiator installed prior to this trip. The trans shop guys tested the cooler and radiator and they were fine. I drove "down" to Kolob Canyon in Zion National Park today and the trans did fine. The OD solenoid stayed dry. OD does not function because we are at about 6000ft. At this point, I may have they order the plate and just hang on to it in the event my OD solenoid blows. My amateur opinion is that the OD solenoid is fine and I don't need any extra expenses on top of what it is going to cost to cover this trans rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 I'm not sure I comprehend the plate idea. The plates I've seen for eliminating the overdrive-solenoid prevent you from ever shutting it off. That would be awful on a Toyota RV. If the intent is to eliminate the solenoid AND lock out overdrive - you can just plug the two small oil ports in the existing solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 They say the plate will be about $30 and that it takes about 10 minutes to remove the solenoid and install the plate. Yes, we have an external transmission cooler and I had a new CSF metal radiator installed prior to this trip. The trans shop guys tested the cooler and radiator and they were fine. I drove "down" to Kolob Canyon in Zion National Park today and the trans did fine. The OD solenoid stayed dry. OD does not function because we are at about 6000ft. At this point, I may have they order the plate and just hang on to it in the event my OD solenoid blows. My amateur opinion is that the OD solenoid is fine and I don't need any extra expenses on top of what it is going to cost to cover this trans rebuild. If this is the plate you're talking about . . OD will come on and off automatically and you will have no way of locking it out. By the way - the plate isn't even needed. You can do the same thing by cutting a groove between the two ports on the existing solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevlars Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 Thanks for your replies. We have been traveling again and without great connections. Now we are back home in Oregon. I did some research the night before the shop was going to order the OD plate and learned the same as you: that the OD plate that replaces the OD solenoid puts you in OD full time - no way to turn it off. So, I nixed the plate. Actually, on the weekend we drove down to Kolob Canyon in Zion National Park, hiked and came back, all in hot temps. The newly overhauled trans did great and the OD solenoid did not leak. So, I opted for no change there. Interesting to note, that OD would not kick in since the overhaul. The trans mechanic was concerned. I had looked on this site and found the altitude limiting switch info and figured that was the problem (meaning no problem). Well, a week later we were on Cedar Mesa (south of Canyonlands NP and in the Natural Bridge National Monument area) and I wanted to use the window washer and wipers to get some bug splat cleaned on the windshield. Well, the wipers would not work. When I got out the Toyota owner's manual, it specified that the 15 amp fuse for the wipers was also for the OD solenoid! When I replaced the fuse, both the wipers and OD work. I've not used the OD much, but it may just have been a temporary short when the trans guy re-plugged in the OD solenoid. All part of a learning experience. The trans overhaul cost a little over two grand and it now seems to work better than before. Thanks for your input. Nice to have this site. Cheers, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 That is correct the same thing would happen if you removed the "O" rings on the solenoid. When the O/D switch is off (light lit) the solenoid is on and the O/D port is blocked. Never seen one leak they either did not work or stuck closed then the O/D did not work. 3rd and O/D are not related they are different clutch packs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashinscott Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Does anyone know the Volvo solenoid part # that replaces the Toyota O/D solenoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Does anyone know the Volvo solenoid part # that replaces the Toyota O/D solenoid? Take your pick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 There are two different types I think you'll find the early ones were made differently. They were not flat on the top and had a sleeve with "O" rings that went into the valve body. I'm not sure what your issue is with the O/D is but they also have a temp sensor that will not allow the O/D to engage when the engine is cold (they do go bad) they are also altitude dependent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 The Volvo solenoid on Ebay that I posted looks just like the one on my 1988 Toyota. Also looks like the one in the Toyota transmission service manual. Toyota manual # RM387U for the A43D used in trucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 That's fine I hope you'll be able to return electrical parts if it doesn't fit they generally won't let you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 The BEST way to maximize the life of your A43D trans is to keep it OUT of 4th gear...unless you are coming east across Kansas with a tail wind... Some other conditions (very few) may apply... Understand that in 4th gear the planetary gears are working, even though they increased the size a bit in the A43D.. the trans' was not designed for these heavy loads...There are 12 versions of this A40 series trans.. since its inception into the Japenese copy of the Borg Warner from back when Ramblers & other Dino's roamed the earth...... Where I'm goin' with this is easy to understand : in 3rd gear for the purpose of this conversation, the input shaft & the output shaft are connected together & you are in 3rd or direct drive...most of the internal transmission parts are just spinning doing very little work, thus no wear on the front planets.& related parts....no shuttle shifting between 3rd & 4 th gear.....the trans is not working hard & the engine isn't either....You may suffer a bit in your fuel mileage, but in MY opinion the trade off is well worth it. THEN THE WIZZARDS OF WARNER PUT A CLUTCH IN THE CONVERTER AND ALONG CAME THE A43DL ..............had enough???????????????? donnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 I agree that using OD with the factory 4.1 to 1 gearing is asking for trouble. It's not the extra parts turning that worries me though. If it did, I'd never use an overdrive (or lower gear) in anything. The rear axle just isn't geared to keep the trans and engine from lugging. Torque-converter slippage spikes up and so does the trans-oil temperature. 4.56 gears puts things just right for the A43D in a 21' RV to cruise well at highway speeds. A nice side-benefit is a lower 1st gear which comes in REAL handy for getting started up a severe incline. The A40 series seems to be an amazingly rugged trans for its size. My 2001 Chevy V6 4WD Tracker has over 200K miles on the Aisin A44DE and it's never been apart. But due to the electronic controls - it's just about impossible to make it lug in OD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 The only relationship is Warner gear, Aisin was the designer. The Toyota unit is an all clutch transmission (no bands). The issue is not with the gearing it's with the heating due to converter slip pulling too heavy a load I seldom saw any planetary issues with them regardless of the application. The 4 cylinder did not have lockup because it did not have the power to pull it in lockup, once the V6 was introduced they offered lockup. Generally the unit will protect it's self by down shifting but continued shifting into to O/D and out will cause overheating. They did have some issues but for what they are asked to do in a very over wight vehicle they do an admirable job and will last 150K or more miles with proper care. The do and do not use O/D debate will out last the transmission I personally am part of the use O/D team but know when to lock it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 My little address on driving a heavy truck with this well built, clutch only type transmission , has been said NO BANDS, was only meant to explain that in 3rd gear .....the trans is in direct drive....INPUT & OUTPUT SHAFTS are , for the sake of conversation turning at the same speed...THIS WILL ELIMINATE shuttle shifting.....3/4 & 4/3 thus wearing out the clutch discs & creating minimal heat.. MOST HEAT IS CREATED IN THE CONVERTER, not in slipping clutches.. If your clutches are slipping enough to create a lot of heat , you will soon be walking .FLUID SHEAR IN THE CONVERTER MAKES A LOT OF HEAT ! .The converter has to be loose or better termed as high stall......in order to move this heavy load....I too have not seen much planetary failure in these units.. I DID NOT MEAN TO imply that...just to say that they were at rest when in 3rd gear. Jd's Tracker would have a LOW stall converter as the Tracker is considerably lighter than a TOYOTA HOME.. I have built more converters than I care to count from 1000 stall diesels to 5,000 stall drag cars & I will promise you that an 8 inch OPEL built for a drag car with a 5,000 stall will generate A hell of LOT more heat than a 3 plate 13 inch diesel built for a 4R100 or others Allison & Chrysler included.. Besides hard 1-2 shifts caused by a ball failure in the valve body & output bushing/ governor bore wear.. It IS A GOOD UNIT ! ! ! HEAT IS THE ENEMY OF ALL AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS & if the deziners of this trans would have spent 10 bux for a rear bearing instead of a 2 dollar bushing...........there would have been a lot less of them on my bench over the years past.....Sleeved a LOT of cases...very poor dezine ;-( I am not telling anyone how they MUST drive, trying to explain in my 1st post how the trans works less in 3rd gear..was my intention I did not mean to start a pi$$ing contest YOU CAN DRIVE IT HOWEVER YOU LIKE IT"S YOUR WAGEN......................enough, want more???...........just ask, donnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 This has little to do with a "p*ssing" contest." That sort of competition relies on a person's inate abilities. This is more about what is true about the A43D design and what users have reported over the years. The facts seem to bear out that the A43D does not have issues with OD components used in 4th. More of an issue of excess heat that using OD can cause if the rig has to work too hard to increase speed. It is obvious, at least to me - that if the same torque converter works well in 3rd @ 55-60 MPH, it can work just as well in 4th/OD @ 55-60 MPH if the rear-end gears are changed to result in near the same engine RPMs. In the situation of a 21 footer with a 2.4 engine and the OEM 4.1 to 1 axle-ratio. 3rd revs a bit too high @ 55-60 MPH and 4th/OD too low and lugs. Putting in new axle gears to bring RPMs in 4th/OD just a little lower then it did previously in 3rd seems to be the best combo. It's what I have now. I'm confident the torque converter doesn't even know what I've done. It is doing the same work as before and my trans oil temps are not the same in OD as they used to be in 3rd . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Maris, what you say about changing ring & pinion gears from 4:10 to 4;56 makes sense....I ran the numbers & your statement is true. Although there was an overdrive planet ratio change somewhere around in the mid 80's....not sure of the year & percent of change with out going to the shop & checking parts book.. It was minimal, but these guys liked to change thing around & not always change part numbers, so we always had to be direct to the point when sourcing parts. Any way that is not the point. Just throwing it in as I ran into it once. ANYWAY< my post was directed to those who have asked before about running in 3rd. AS I RECALL EARLY ON>>PROMISED AN EXPLANATION.. I realize that you , I , and a few others have the ability to change the gear set for a couple hundred bux.......but there are a LOT of folks on here who either can't justify the cost of having it done, are not interested in having it done.or just DON'T want to. Maybe they don't drive enough miles ???? For those folks I sent my original post..3rd gear is easier on everything, if you don't mind going a few mph slower TRY IT And for those of you who follow Maineeh's formula, make sure that your throttle pressure is set correctly..& drive onward ............the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashinscott Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Is the o/d solenoid for the 22re and the 3.0 the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.