Reseal windows

[waiter]

I resealed two windows last year, but failed to get some photos. So when I resealed another window last night, I made an effort to get a few photos to describe the process.

Like the other two windows, this one also seemed to have a small leak coming from the top. Even though the sealant looked OK from the outside, I would get a small amount of moisture on the wall. We also noticed that the windows always seemed to have a cold draft coming from the bottom of them.

What we seen after removing the window explained the water leak, and the air leak. You can see where the water was leaking past the sealant in the upper corner. Also, like the other windows we resealed, this one had absolutely no sealant on the window bottom, hence the air leaks.

The sealing method that Dolphin used differs from the method I've seen in the video thats circulating on the internet. Dolphin didn't use butyl tape, but instead used a piece of foam around the entire window, and also used a acrylic sealant on the sides and top (the sealant you see if you look at the window edge). The black foam rubber was the supposed to be the main water seal, but after looking at it, we could see where the rubber was not compressed between the RV wall and the window frame. In this case, the sealant that they ran around the exterior became the main block to water.

The method I used, The sealant becomes the main seal against water and air, Sealant is firmly sandwiched between the frame and the RV wall, not just a bead around the outer edge. There is no rubber foam, the sealant acts as the rubber foam.

I choose to use a similar method as the original Dolphin, but use a LOT more sealant. I used an exterior, flexible acrylic adhesive / sealant.

REMOVE THE WINDOW

You need a helper for this. Open the window and have the helper on the outside, holding the window in the middle and gently pushing inward. Their job is mainly to make sure that window doesn't fall out on the ground and break. This will ruin your entire day if that happens, so make sure they know why they are standing there holding the window.

From the inside, remove the screws that hold the inner frame to the window. The inner frame is what holds the window in place. As you remove the inner frame, it may stick to wall paper or paint and start peeling, use a razor knife and gently go around the frame to cut the paper or paint, pull the frame off, the window is now ready to come out.

On the outside, you can go around the frame with the razor knife to cut the sealant, don't press hard, just enough to cut the sealant. Now start at the window bottom, and slowly pull the window out and away from the RV, Press on the side of the RV so , the sealant will tear and separate from the RV. Make sure your helper has a good grip on the window as you do this in case it decides to pop out.

Be careful as the sliding window will want to slide, as you remove the window and frame from the opening.

CLEAN WINDOW AND FRAME

I used a flat razor blade to clean the sealant from the RV and the window frame.

Remove the foam sealant from the window frame, take you time and get as much off as you can.

Look carefully on the window frame outer edges that contact the RV, you'll see a ridge about 3/8 from the edge. Everything between this ridge and the outer edge must be clean. This is the surface that the new sealant will be adhering to.

Use brake cleaner, or acetone, to clean the inside of the frame and a RV frame are. These need to be clean as you can get them.

CAUTION The brake cleaner may remove the paint from the frame so be careful.

SEALING THE WINDOW

Look carefully at the opening on the RV and you'll see where the old sealant was. I used Blue painters tape and ran it about 1/4 past where the old sealant was. The tape will help keep getting sealant all over everything.

Apply the Blue tape on the outside of the Window frame also, right up to the edge.

Double check the RV opening and the window frame.

You'll need two tubes of sealant, I used the exterior, acrylic, flexible adhesive / sealant.

Before applying Sealant, read thru this and make sure everything is ready. Once you start running the sealant, you must complete the installation and cleanup before the sealant starts to harden.

On the RV, Run a 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide bead of sealant on the opening edge. Make sure to apply thicker where the sides of the RV have the ridges, so the sealant will fill in the ridges.

In the window frame. Remember the 3/8 inch area on the edge of the frame, run a 3/8 - 1/2 inch bead of sealant around the entire window frame.

INSTALLING THE WINDOW

Place the window in the opening, Center it using the blue tape as a guide. Have the helper place a small amount of pressure on the window to hold it in the opening.

On the inside, Place the inner frame against the window and install screws, Don't tighten screws until they are all started as you may need to shift the window to get the inner frame to line up.

Start at the bottom, install one or two screws, but not tight. You may need to slide the window up a little. Put one or two screws in the sides, again, you may need to slide the window sideways to get the inner frame to drop into the opening and line up with the screw holes on the window.

Do not tighten any of the screws until the inner frame is completely installed, top bottom, and both side. Then tighten all the screws.



Paper towels and a few Popsicle sticks.

Go hold the Popsicle stick at about a 45 degree angle and go around the entire window, scrapping away excess sealant. You may need to wipe the sealant off the stick with a paper towel.

Look carefully, and you'll notice the edge of the sealant goes up to but doesn't touch the blue tape While the sealant is still workable, look carefully and use the pop cycle stick to wipe away excess sealant.

If you using acrylic sealant, dampen a paper towel, with water and you can wipe gently around the entire frame with the wet towel to clean up even more. Don't press hard.

Wait until the sealant is tacky or cured before removing the blue tape.

This should eliminate the water leak, AND, also that cold air leak we had under the window. The original window didn't have any sealant on the bottom.

[sdboltdude]

nice post

great tutorial

I like silicon better then butyl tape...

I use 3m 5200 for caulk..

I've done cabover windows same way

[MontanaChinook]

Good work "doing it right".

I may just fill in all the gaps on my Chinook windows where the rubber gasket has pulled away with sealant and figure if that keeps them from leaking for another ten years....good enough for me.

[Dolphinite no longer here]

_{Nice tutorial, John. Now if only you'd do one as thorough on rear axle/seal removal and replacement.}

_John

[waiter]

tnks all.

Look At

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3483

for brakes and bearings

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[linda s]

It looks like a great job but way more work than using butyl tape. I just hate taping stuff off no matter that I'm putting up. I did all the regular framed winodws on my Sunrader, so 5 including the big one in the back, in one day. Had no help except for having someone on the outside when I put the big one back in just in case. Butyl tape is so sticky I didn't even need him. Couldn't have done that using sealant.

Linda S

[jmowrey]

Thanks for the post, John. I'm considering resealing the windows on my Dolphin. One major concern of mine is, what if you do have that bad day and a window cracks or breaks? Can the glass be replaced in these frames, or is one facing the prospect of trying to find a replacement window, which must be impossible to locate, even if you could afford it?

With that in mind, how terrible would it be for me to just carefully caulk around each window and leave it at that? The seals themselves look pretty solid still. There are a few touch up spots already where the previous owner made an attempt (not a very cosmetic one) to patch a few places. I can't see, because of the caulk, what he was trying to repair. As I say, the black foam seals seem to be in pretty good shape. Also, there is a bead of what looks like factory caulking (where else can they make it look so perfect, and how the heck do they do that anyway?) across the tops of all the windows and it is in fantastic condition, though there are a few tiny areas where it's starting to detach from the frame (not the aluminum siding; it's still well adhered to that). There is no visible sign of any leakage into the coach or walls from any of these frames.

[waiter]

The windows I have can be replaced very easily, just [pull off the rubber keeper, and the glass will fall out. However, finding the correct glass may be a problem. I suspect if I ever had to do this, I would simply find a piece of lexan or plexiglass and cut it to fit in the frame. ( I did this with the front window)

You can caulk around the window, that's what they did originally, you can see this if you look carefully at the first photo. The combination between the caulk and the foam worked for many years. The caulking on mine looked very good, so where in the heck was the water coming in at near the top. had to be a slight separation tht would allow water to seep thru

With the sealing method I used, I replaced the foam with the adhesive sealant, so it does double duty, its squished in between the frame and the wall, and it also is caulked around the edges.

As for butyl tape, yes, that will work also, but if you have a corrugated style side instead of a flat side, you'll probably need to double up the tape in the corrugated depressions areas.

As for making it look professional. I use the blue tape, then the final step is to wet a paper towel and gently (no pressure) wipe the edges. You can;t tell the difference between my seams and the factory seams.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Roy in Jax]

Where did you purchase the Megalastic sealant?

[Derek up North]

http://www.wlcaulk.com/where_to_purchase/index.html

[linda s]

I have replaced the outside rubber trim on several motorhomes including my neighbors larger Chevy based Dolphin and I have never seen the glass not sealed to the frame. Good thing too, it would have fallen on my head. Had to remove some of the windows from my Tiger and reseal them. That rubber doesn't really seal very much.

Linda S

[waiter]

The rubber piece isn't there seal (I'll get a photo of it) its there as a keeper to hold the glass in the frame.

Unfortunantly, on the front and rear windows, there are no drain holes, so if water gets trapped behind that rubber keeper, it can find it way into the inside. I recommend two things or the front and rear windows.

1) From the outside, drill drain holes in the corners.

2) If you ever remove that rubber keeper, re-install it so the seam (the edges) are on the bottom. this will allow water to drain thru the seam.

Obviously this only applies to the type of window I have.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Roy in Jax]

I need some information on replacing the wheather seals on sliding windows. I have a gap at top of window when closed after pressure is applyed to window from the out side. I fear that with a hard rain water will be force in.

The fiber seals are also worn, can you replace them.

[linda s]

I need some information on replacing the wheather seals on sliding windows. I have a gap at top of window when closed after pressure is applyed to window from the out side. I fear that with a hard rain water will be force in.

The fiber seals are also worn, can you replace them.

I found a source for MontanaChinook, Zach, a while ago but can't for the life of me find the thread now. He said it worked for his windows. His were so worn down the windows were rattleing. I'm sure he knows where he bought it

Linda S