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Like the title says. I did a drain and fill two weeks ago and doing another because the color was awful. So I go to pull the plug and it won't come out. Will not tighten either. So now I have a slow drip and can't stop it.

To further complicate things I thought I would drop the pan. Went I went to remove the bolts that hold the pan, the end sheared off as the rest of the bolt came out.

Wonderful.

Anyways not sure what to do. Or what I even can do. Thought I would ask and see if anyone has been in the same conundrum. Cause I am in one.

Patrick

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Try letting some PB Blaster soak on it for a few days. I too tried to pull my pan off last week and the first bolt I tried snapped off so I stopped there.

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sounds like a mess. I would soak the bolts down repeatedly with one or more of the products like wd 40 etc etc.

The broken bolt should be repaired. After you get the pan off you might be able to grab what is left with vice grips but otherwise I am thinking drilling it out which while laying underneath may be rather difficult to do. IF you don't fix that bolt it will probably leak UNLESS you have not broken the gasket seal (it may not have a gasket) in which case you may just decide to stop where you are & focus on the drain bolt alone. Another "rig" would be to get a piece of metal & make an external brace that uses the bolts on each side of the broken bolt - on the outside of the pan.

You may be able to grab that drain bolt with vice grips & while pulling down get it to bite enough to unscrew. Assuming you get that far - you may find out about helicoils.

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The bolt that is sheared is the one that attaches the pan to the AT. i think i had the socket attached at an angle. not sure what else i may have done. The drain bolt is loose enough where it drips slowly. Not sure what is hanging it up, I guess it is stripped. May try and give a go tomorrow. I am resigned to the fact I prob need a new pan,which I can get for 78.00, toyota oem. But then there is the bolt issue.

Really would like to avoid taking it to a shop.

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Man I hate working with old bolts.

I hear you. I went by a transmission place and they said it must have stripped because the drain bolt had been removed so often, but when I drained it two weeks ago the fluid looked like it had never been changed. But it is an 86, so an old bolt.

Who knows. Frustrating.

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This shouldn't be too hard. To be clear, is the pan off? Although it might be messy, that is the first thing to do. Then you can get to the drain plug from the inside to maybe see the issue. Always (Although people never do) use a new drain washer -- Kragens or Napa has them, they are usually brass or some sort of malleable plastic. Like Dan says above, you might have more to grab on with the pan off -- if you can't there is likely enough room to drill and use an easyout. The issue is not that the bolts are old -- it is cause someone either used locktite or, more likely, they did not torque them correctly. When installing, tighten in an even cross pattern to 48 INCH (not foot) pounds (that's only 5.4 ft lbs.). Fill with atf and you are good to go. Kim

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The pan is not off. I tried to remove two of the bolts that connect the pan to the transmission and the head came off in the socket and threaded part, or part of it remains in the hole. I do want to get the pan off but I can't afford to shear off any more bolts at this point. Idk what I did, if anything, to cause that.

You are right, should not be that hard, but it is at the moment.

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I don't know what tools you have but what I would do is use a little 3/8 drive impact wrench turned all the way down and set to turn in the correct direction (you are upside down and are turning the right direction to loosen?). Then I would put it on one of the bolts, pull the trigger, and slowly increase the force -- often the banging of the impact will loosen the bolt. An alternative might be one of those hammer impact screw drivers -- they usually have square heads that a socket may fit. Make sure that is turning the right way, put it on a bolt, and hit it a few times. I would not try to heat anything -- the tranny is a huge heat sink esp with fluid in it. Kim

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-volt-cordless-14-hex-impact-driver-68853.html

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here is a lower cost option - a handy tool IF you have room to smack it with a hammer. There are other sources.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/shc-947641?seid=srese1&gclid=CJ3CmLek07cCFSgS7Aod_hsA1Q

very handy tool to break things loose - it is reversable.

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If after removing the transmission cover you cannot remove the broken bolts with a tool and If you have access to a arc welder, you can weld new bolt heads on.

Just get a nut has a hole slightly smaller then the broken bolt and tap it on with a hammer. Then hit the nut with a arc/stick welder, just need a couple seconds

and the nut will be welded to the broken bolt and the heat from the arc/stick welder will break the broken bolt free.

After it cools down (several minutes), you probably can remove the bolt by hand.

Dennis...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Kim,

I have not yet. I live in my rig part time while I work, so If I screw something up or it takes a few days, there goes my temp home. I'll be finished end of July so I may give it a go early this fall. I ended up putting some epoxy around the drain bolt and that stopped the drip, figure that bolt is not going anywhere now, so ill prob end up buying a new pan and drain bolt.

I'll make sure to post a follow up, whether I have success or take the drive/walk of shame to the dealer.

Best,

P

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