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How does $650 sound?


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Hi all--still trying to decide whether a dealer or my mechanic should do some routine maintenance on my '92 V-6. Approaching 100K and would like valves adjusted, timing belt replaced, etc., etc. Before I draw up my list of things to be done, the dealer today quoted $650. to replace the timing belt, water pump and "drive" belt? How does this sound? Having trouble deciding whether this sounds like a fair price.

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You really should have included the valves in your estimate.. You want total costs and when replacing all that stuff some of the other things are easier to get to making the total a better deal. That said it sounds fair. Now if the price make a huge jump when you include the valves you need to ask why since they are already easily accesible.

Linda S

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Hi all--still trying to decide whether a dealer or my mechanic should do some routine maintenance on my '92 V-6. Approaching 100K and would like valves adjusted, timing belt replaced, etc., etc. Before I draw up my list of things to be done, the dealer today quoted $650. to replace the timing belt, water pump and "drive" belt? How does this sound? Having trouble deciding whether this sounds like a fair price.

You're talking about $80 in new parts and according to Toyota - 4.6 hours labor. Sounds like the job is being billed at $123 per hour. I don't know if that is high for your area or not. Both the non-dealer shops in my town bill repairs at $60 per hour. That would put the repair you stated at $356. I'm figuring a new timing belt, idler, tensioner, and v-belts. I don't know of anyone that uses dealers except on new rigs so I have no idea what their labor rates are.

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A dealer is going to put in factory Toyota parts and list pice on just the water pump is 132 dollars. This is an online toyota discount part place and they charge 95

http://parts.tituswilltoyota.com/oempartscat.html

Belts come in at 67

Timing belt 33

I probably missed some things but were looking at at least 200 bucks for parts. probably more cause like I said I'm looking at discount prices

Linda S

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Yes, most dealers use only OEM parts (not all dealers though). A Toyota OEM waterpump for the V6 is made for Toyota by Aisin. That same Aisin pump can bought for $48 if you skip the package with the Toyota logo added. As to OEM timing belts? Last I checked OEM Toyotas used Gates or Bando belts. $18 to $20 if bought without the Toyota logo stuck on it. I don't know who makes V-belts for Toyota. I do know that similar kevlar-lined belts are available from many places for $5-$10 each.

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A valve adjustment can cost a few hundred bucks all on its own, on a V6, depending on what you need as far as shims & stuff.

If it were me, though, I'd take it to a trusted mechanic and tell them I want OEM or equivalent parts used. My mechanic will do that, anyways. In most areas of the country, the dealership is absolutely the LAST place I would take my vehicle for repairs...

Here in Montana, I'd expect labor at $60/hour to be the absolute cheapest you could possibly find. I don't take my vehicles to mechanics very often anymore, but I think they're at least $70, and probably regularly more.

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There is the thought, which I used to also have, that for the best repairs, for those who really care about their vehicle, you go to the dealership.

Rid your mind of this ridiculous thought. :)

It's just not true. The dealership knows people think this, and encourages it. As Jdemaris knows possibly better than anyone, OEM parts are just what Toyota happens to be using as a supplier these days. I tend to think they typically use better-than-average parts suppliers, but it doesn't mean you can't find OEM equivalent quality parts elsewhere. Toyota themselves aren't making the parts.

And as for the mechanics...it's not true across the board, but think of Toyota mechanics at the dealership as the "government employees" of the automotive repair world. There are good ones, but they generally don't have a clue what they're talking about, or doing. And they charge you a premium for that "skill". IMO

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labor rate at a dodge dealership near my house is only $68. local tranny and mech also is $68. I went over to try another ma and pa to get a AC compressor replaced on a buick the other month... it was also $68 per hour.

Sometimes living in the sticks in michigan can be fun because to me this is a great labor rate.

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We took ours to the Toyota dealer first. Mixed, as the old mechanic "that knows about the older trucks" did some really good things that he did. Other things done screwed up and the "fix" was worse!!! Would not go back to them to ever. Price was breathtaking. Had same problem with local Subaru dealer. My take no more dealers, some may be good , but odds are bad. The prices from Toyota seem to be to be double or more for same parts without the "T" name.

Remember no "manufacturer" makes much of anything anymore, they buy from a HUGE pool of parts supliers that sell to all of 'em and assemble the pieces.

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Dang even the aftermarket shops around here cheapest labor rate is $90 , guys working out of their home garage want $50 +..

Went to three different shops to get a quote on a front brake job done on my 08 Chev Z71 4X4. cheapest quote was $275 to turn rotors and new pads (rotors just slip off, No taking front hub apart /bearings pack) Then when I took it in for an oil change at the Chevy dealership (I just don't trust jiffy-lube wally world etc places to change the oil) I asked my service writer to let me know how much using factory pads, not parts house cheap pads.. he quoted $215 plus tax.

When I came in to pick the truck up total price for oil change and brake job $235.08 even got the tires rotated and rear brakes checked /adjusted and a nice wash on the truck as well...

I think I got lucky and found the needle in the hay stack on this one !

It is nice doing the work yourself IF you can , but some of us either don't have all the right tools or health reasons like me back surgery and still on the mend.

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I'm about to do 4 brakes on a buick and 4 brakes on a e300 benz next weekend. All new rotors and pads were $300 for both cars. I am surprised anyone can even find a shop that will turn rotors anymore; turning rotors is something you get done yourself these days taking them over to an auto zone etc. the brake shops want to put in all new everything. To me if thats my fate I will do it myself. tis easy enough to rip off old bolt on new.

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I'm about to do 4 brakes on a buick and 4 brakes on a e300 benz next weekend. All new rotors and pads were $300 for both cars. I am surprised anyone can even find a shop that will turn rotors anymore; turning rotors is something you get done yourself these days taking them over to an auto zone etc. the brake shops want to put in all new everything. To me if thats my fate I will do it myself. tis easy enough to rip off old bolt on new.

I'm about to do 4 brakes on a buick and 4 brakes on a e300 benz next weekend. All new rotors and pads were $300 for both cars. I am surprised anyone can even find a shop that will turn rotors anymore; turning rotors is something you get done yourself these days taking them over to an auto zone etc. the brake shops want to put in all new everything. To me if thats my fate I will do it myself. tis easy enough to rip off old bolt on new.

For many vehicles - turning rotors is a waste of time and money. Every time you turn a rotor -it is less durable then it was before. Besides that - even new rotors out-of-the-box will show as "untrue" on many machines. If the rotors look smooth and the brake pedal does not pulsate - it's often better to leave them as-is. If they ARE warped -with some rigs - brand new rotors only cost $10-$20 each. I just bought new rotors for a 1/2 ton Toyota truck and they were $10 each. Last month I bought new rotors for an 87 Toyota 1 ton and they were $16 each.

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For many vehicles - turning rotors is a waste of time and money. Every time you turn a rotor -it is less durable then it was before. Besides that - even new rotors out-of-the-box will show as "untrue" on many machines. If the rotors look smooth and the brake pedal does not pulsate - it's often better to leave them as-is. If they ARE warped -with some rigs - brand new rotors only cost $10-$20 each. I just bought new rotors for a 1/2 ton Toyota truck and they were $10 each. Last month I bought new rotors for an 87 Toyota 1 ton and they were $16 each.

Yep, they are often made new so thin now they don't have enough meat to lathe them. I always just buy em whether or not they look bad, and keep one of the best bad ones in case need a spare. Well, time to get my breaker bar, jack & sockets... Break time coffees gone.

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Don't fool around with a valve adjustment it is not for the faint of heart you or the one doing it better know what they are doing. There is a special tool involved and if you have to run back and forth to the dealer to buy shims it could take a while. You can’t say “that’s close enough” because the 3L had a tendency to reduce valve clearance with age and then you end up with a burnt valve. I don't know what they charge for shims but there are 12 and they get replaced. I don't think the figure is out of line there is a lot of labor involved and the parts are not a giveaway if you buy them elsewhere and say "here put these on" they will be no warranty. The originals lasted 100K there is merit to OEM parts there are too many look alikes out there.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I consider myself a reasonably decent mechanic, but certainly not a pro. I did the valve check/adjust myself. It was a PITA, but, if you take your time and take lots of pictures/diagram where everything goes, it is not that bad a job. I did not replace shims. I had them ground at a local auto machine shop. It was quit reasonable, under 50 bucks if I recall.

The valve job is a fair bit more work than the T-belt which is actually quite easy. But, you definitely should get them both done.

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