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Overcab bunk sagging = door hitting = HELP!!!


Odyssey4x4

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A question for you guys:

When I open my passenger door, the top of the door hits the sagging overhead bunk. It's been sagging worse & worse since the day I bought it (from a crack/seam separation). I posted a video of my fix for the seam/"wall-to-overhead bunk floor" separation, and the fix worked awesome, but now I've run into a much bigger problem.

The plywood (1" thick) that supports the entire overhead bunk area is bowed down on the passenger side. This is why the door is hitting. I tried lifted the passenger side up w/ a jack and tried reconstructing everything to "pull" the sag up, but it didn't work.

I then began to rip everything completely apart, and when I finally got to the part where the main 1" plywood sheet is ready to be pulled out... I found that the plywood sheet is actually GLUED to the external fiberglass shell of the motorhome. Yipe. I tried using a crow bar to separate the fiberglass shell from the plywood, but it's not working very well at all.

How do I get that plywood out of there without damaging my fiberglass shell? Are there any other fixes for "lifting" a sagging overcab bunk area away from the doors (so the doors won't contact the roof?) that doesn't involve removing the bottom plywood support?

Help! I was told the motorhome was completely restored, but this thing has had water damage throughout it's entirety for a very long time like you wouldn't believe (the passenger wall all the way back is bowing out really bad too, as in a 0.5 ft. bow out in middle of the wall where the fridge & oven are located) & drivers side is bowing bad too. I wish I would've known that I'd have to restore the entire frame of the motorhome before I bought it, but I have way too much $$$ invested & I have to fix it now before the Alaskan winter gets here (1 month). Help guys! Maybe someone knows something:^)

Timmy

www.timmystoyota.blogspot.com

Edited by Odyssey4x4
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Use a skill saw set at the correct depth. Cut as close to the edge as you can. This will remove most of the plywood and let you see what the damage is. If its fixable you can wiggle the edge up and down to break the glue loose.

If its bad the throw in some braces and supports and lay a new sheet of plywood so that it rests on the lip and the supports and press on.

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I would build a support on the outside for the whole front nose before you try to remove that wood. Whole thing could come crashing down. Jacking the front section back into place might help you see where the problem is too. Can you see if the wood your trying to remove is rotten. Check side of front overhead for separation too. They help support the front. I have repaired rotten wood by drilling a lot of small holes and pouring fiberglass resin and hardener into it. Also have supported weak areas with shelf standards.Very light weight but strong. Like mini c channel

http://www.hardwareworld.com/Shelf-Standards-c38H2IZ.aspx

Available at any hardware store

Good luck

Linda

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