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Fridge on 12V while driving?


ShaggyRV

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I just read the post about running the fridge on gas while driving. I was planning to run mine on 12V while in motion. Does'nt the alternator charge the house battery while driving? I just started using my 1985 Granville and have no books for it. I just thought 12V would work. Please educate me!!

Paul

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The engine does charge the engine, but, remember, you are still using power, making the alternator work harder. This makes the engine work harder, lowering fuel mileage a tad. I honestly don't know how much of an effect it has, but, I do know that a dead alternator in the middle of a trip sucks. Found that out the hard way.

If you fridge works on propane, just leave the propane on while driving. It is amazingly efficient and propane is cheap at this time.

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NOTE - Some newer style frig do this automatically, switch from 12volt to LP. However, most of the frig in the Toyhouse don't have 12 volt operations., let alone automatic switching. :-)

Either one, LP or 12 volts while driving. 12 volts ops should be OK as long as your not drawing heavy on the alternator, i.e. running truck A/C on full, at night with all the lights on and its raining so you got wipers on, and the radio playing, and all the lights in the coach turned on, etc, etc, etc.

If your running on 12 volts while driving, don't forget to switch it to LP or 110v if your stopped for any length of time or you'll run your coach battery dead. Frig should draw about 10 amps at 12 volts, so this would give you 5 or 6 hours running on the coach battery.

I suspect that you'll forget to switch it several times and run the battery dead. After that you'll just decide to leave it on propane while driving.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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You have a luxury 3 way fridge, and yes thats what they do is switch to 12 volt when running

most of us have the 2 way fridge that just doesnt work when driving, only works on lp which needs to be level, or shore power.

a 3 way fridge would actually be worth it a 2 way fridge is just an icebox til you set up roots.

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... just doesnt work when driving, only works on lp which needs to be level, or shore power.

Does not 'compute'. The need for levelling doesn't have anything to do with the energy source. They can operate on 12V, LP or 120V (with an inverter) while on the road.

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Oh I didnt know that.

A fridge with a compressor doesnt need to be as level so for some reason i thought a 3 way would work like that but I dont own one.

In that case it would seem a 3 way wouldnt work right when on the road operating on 12v especially on a hill

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These RV frigs do not use a compressor, they boil Ammonia liquid, When the liquid ammonia re-condenses, it separates out a small amount of Hydrogen gas. When this gas separation occurs (Low temp and High temp evaporator)), it absorbs heat (gets cold)

The boiler can run off a 12 volt heater strip, a 120 volt heater strip, or the flame from burning LP.

They need to be reasonably level when parked with the boiler running, otherwise the condensed liquid ammonia gets trapped in the vent and evaporator tubes and doesn't flow down into the Absorber Tank. When this happens, the evaporation path becomes blocked with liquid ammonia and the frig stops cooling,

WARNING - If the frig is operated like this often and depending on the severity of the un-level condition, over a period of time (weeks, months, years) ammonia crystals will grow in the Perk tube and clog it up. When this happens, its time for a new Frig.

While traveling down the road, this isn't an issue as the condensed ammonia will be sloshing back and forth in the vent and evaporator tubes and find its way down to the Absorber tank.

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Leveling - Most Toyhouses the frig is mounted against one of the side walls this orients the cooling unit front and back of the truck. Therefore the truck needs to be level front to back, (not so much side to side) Install bubble levels on the drivers door post, and on the dash board so they can be seen while your parking the truck.

Place a bubble level on the bottom of the freezer compartment so its oriented toward the front and back of the truck. Either move the truck or jack it so the bubble in the freezer reads level. Install a self adhesive level high up on the driver door post so you can see it. while parking the truck. Turn the bubble level in the freezer so it points toward the sides of the truck, level the truck side to side, then install another self adhesive level on the dash board.

There were two styles of boilers on the Dometics, the older style had a square shaped cover on the boiler The newer style was round (3 inch diameter sheet metal on the right side, gets hot when running)

The older style is more critical to getting level, but I would say, get the front to back level within one mark on the bubble level and you'll be OK with either one.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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If I were replacing my 3 way I would go for a 12 volt electric only any day of the week.

or if cost were more a concern 120 volt from walmart for 90$

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  • 4 weeks later...

if you are going to boondock (which these campers are great for) I would recommend sticking to propane. They run fine in propane mode while underway. I have put about 20000 miles traveling and the only problem I had was a couple of times when winds were 40 miles per hour the flame was blown out.

When parked level IS important.

If i had the 12v option I would consider using it on longer drives. When I stop & plug in (which is rare) I usually do not bother switching 120v mode - this thing hardly uses any propane at all. Maybe in a hot climate where the distilling process has to crank it might be different but I travel in the summer heading for cooler climates.

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They draw about 150-175 watts or about 14 amps at 12 volts nothing the system would have trouble with. You could run the fridge for months on 20# of propane the only issues there is refueling would be a real good idea to turn off the fridge if it's on gas. gasoline vapors hang at about 4'

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