bestbowl Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 I was wondering if the auxiliary battery is charged at all by the alternator in a 94 Winnebago Warrior (Toyota)? I keep killing batteries. Also wondering why or if there is a power inverter in these suckers. It seems like they are set up for RV parks (which I would never use). I couldn't imagine having to use the generator and/or AC power to charge the auxiliary battery... That would render Toyota motorhomes practically useless for all that don't live and die by the RV park which I avoid at all costs. Anyway, if the aux needs AC/generator power what is the simplest way for me to use the motor/alternator/main battery to keep me in power? Thanks for the help and suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Yes, it should. You might find a wiring diagram useful! http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Yes, the truck should charge the battery when the truck is running. This is the job of the Isolator, to separate the batterys when the truck isn't running. I'm not sure what you mean by killing batteries? You need to buy a small Voltmeter, Radio Shack has these for about $20. you'll need this to help troubleshoot the 12 volt system. Every owner uses their Toyhouse a little differently. On my recent Alaska trip, we traveled during the day, and pulled off into remote sites to spend the night. Every three or four days we would stay at an RV camp, mainly to shower and do laundry. I don't have a generator, and rely on the coach battery. for lights, TV, furnace, coffee pot and microwave oven. I start the truck to recharge the coach battery if needed. (I installed a remote starter mainly for this purpose) I retrofitted all the lights with LEDs, these use 1/10 the power. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxy Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I was wondering if the auxiliary battery is charged at all by the alternator in a 94 Winnebago Warrior (Toyota)? I keep killing batteries. Also wondering why or if there is a power inverter in these suckers. It seems like they are set up for RV parks (which I would never use). I couldn't imagine having to use the generator and/or AC power to charge the auxiliary battery... That would render Toyota motorhomes practically useless for all that don't live and die by the RV park which I avoid at all costs. Anyway, if the aux needs AC/generator power what is the simplest way for me to use the motor/alternator/main battery to keep me in power? Thanks for the help and suggestions! If all you are running is lights and you use only what you need, the house battery should not be running down. We have spent 3-4 days without being connected and without running the engine and I think could last a week with some care. If on the other hand you run a TV, an inverter for a microwave, and most of the lights in the RV, you will need to charge the battery. An inverter was never standard, but may have been added by a previous owner. The Warrior uses a continuous duty solinoid mounted on the passenger side of the engine compartment to isolate the house and coach batteries. When the engine is running, the solinoid is closed and provides charging to the house battery.You may want to get a multi-meter to test that the soilinoid is working as well as check the battery itself. The DC converter in the coach will also charge the battery when the AC power is connected. The converters are not well regulated and will overcharge the battery and cook the water out of the cells. You should check to see that the cells have water and fully charge the battery. After charging and with no load on the batteries wait 4-5 hours and test the voltage at the terminals. If the voltage has dropped significantly from 12V, the battery is not good and needs to be replaced. The normal engine alternators are only 40-55 amps and intended mainly to recharge the starting battery. It takes a lot of running to bring up the house bank it it's discharged. If you are using lots of DC power, then you may want to go for a small case 155 amp alternator and voltage regulater. It will fit in the same place. The alternative is a small generator like the Honda EU 2000i. It will cost you a bit more, but you can charge the batteries, run the AC, microwave etc at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 A 155 amp alternator would be nice how ever it won't help too much charging your coach battery unless the change the wire going to your coach battery. No matter what you do you can only get 30 amps or 360 watts down a #8 wire the fuse/breaker for that wire is rated 30 amps max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bestbowl Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 A 155 amp alternator would be nice how ever it won't help too much charging your coach battery unless the change the wire going to your coach battery. No matter what you do you can only get 30 amps or 360 watts down a #8 wire the fuse/breaker for that wire is rated 30 amps max. So if I replace the #8 wire with a 4 gauge wire and put in a 50 amp breaker in the box would it work or would there be more to it than that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bestbowl Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 If all you are running is lights and you use only what you need, the house battery should not be running down. We have spent 3-4 days without being connected and without running the engine and I think could last a week with some care. If on the other hand you run a TV, an inverter for a microwave, and most of the lights in the RV, you will need to charge the battery. An inverter was never standard, but may have been added by a previous owner. The Warrior uses a continuous duty solinoid mounted on the passenger side of the engine compartment to isolate the house and coach batteries. When the engine is running, the solinoid is closed and provides charging to the house battery.You may want to get a multi-meter to test that the soilinoid is working as well as check the battery itself. The DC converter in the coach will also charge the battery when the AC power is connected. The converters are not well regulated and will overcharge the battery and cook the water out of the cells. You should check to see that the cells have water and fully charge the battery. After charging and with no load on the batteries wait 4-5 hours and test the voltage at the terminals. If the voltage has dropped significantly from 12V, the battery is not good and needs to be replaced. The normal engine alternators are only 40-55 amps and intended mainly to recharge the starting battery. It takes a lot of running to bring up the house bank it it's discharged. If you are using lots of DC power, then you may want to go for a small case 155 amp alternator and voltage regulater. It will fit in the same place. The alternative is a small generator like the Honda EU 2000i. It will cost you a bit more, but you can charge the batteries, run the AC, microwave etc at the same time. Much thanks for all the help and advice. I think the problem may be is that I use the house battery to charge four electric bike lithium ion batteries while I am driving on the highway which I thought would be more than enough to charge them as well as keep the house battery fully charged. I have a 750 watt inverter connected to the fuse box which I use to charge two bike batteries at a time. The inverter pulls about 400 watts continuously for 6 hours for each set of two; so 12 hours of continuous 400 watt pull from the house battery total. BUT at least 90% of this I am running 60+ on the highway so I figured it could handle. I don't think it can. Maybe I should check out the 155 amp alternator Foxy suggested. Does anyone have a source or a specifically link for a good priced one? Thanks again for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 So if I replace the #8 wire with a 4 gauge wire and put in a 50 amp breaker in the box would it work or would there be more to it than that? Yes that is a step in the right direction everything will need an upgrade I think the solenoid is rated 75 amps so that shouldbe ok but the little breakers will have to go and yes a 50 fuse will be necessary. Usually driving will charge your coachbattery but if you are taking more out then you are putting in that is notgoing to happen. What you could do is connect the inverter to your truckbattery and charge your Nicads while you drive and the coach battery with outchanging any wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Your close to the limit of your trucks charging system, but it should be able to handle it. If your Truck battery is charging OK, then theoretically, your Coach battery should also be charging. HOWEVER, the problem is the length of the wires and their small diameter, your doing a 35amp continuous draw through the coach wiring for an extended period of time, the Coach battery isn't able to get charged, because the voltage isn't sufficient at the battery to charge it. There is resistance in the wire, The higher the current flow, the greater the voltage drop in the small wires. These small wires ar dropping a small portion of the voltage, maybe 1 or 1.5 volts, your now below the voltage to adequately charge the coach battery. If you were using the inverter for short periods, this wouldn't be a problem ( I have a 1500 watt inverter) Others have mentioned upgrading the Alternator. This will increase you charging capacity, but you still going to have the same problem until you upgrade the wire size, or reinstall your inverter with proper wire size (This may actually be the easier option) I think this is your wiring diagram: WIRING DIAGRAM It shows #10 wire used throughout. Not acceptable for what you want to do. This is why you have a voltage drop in the line You have two options. OPTION 1 Increase wire size to control center You can do this by either replacing the #10 wires with a #4, OR, add a #6 wire in parallel with the #10. You also need to upgrade the fuses, i.e. double their size replace 30's with 60's and replace the 25s with 50s. This needs to be done through the entire 12 volt path from the Truck battery, all the way to the Control center. OPTION 2 - Put Inverter on its own separate circuit. (I like this option - its easier and provides a more direct path from the truck battery to the inverter. Keep in mind, your principle use of the inverter is to charge your cycle batteries, the main source of 12 volt power when you do this is the Trucks charging system. 1) Run a #4 wire from the inverter to your existing isolator . Attach it to the coach side of the isolator. Don't forget to put a 60 amp fuse in this line. 2) You need to upgrade the wire on the Truck side of the isolator, it currently has a #10 wire that goes through a fuse, you need to add a #6 or a #4 and run this to the battery. Don't forget to upgrade the fuse to about 50 or 60 amps. 3) Run the ground side of the inverter with a #4 wire to a good chassis ground point (somewhere on the truck frame) INFORMATION - With Option 2, your inverter can still be used when the truck isn't running. i.e. computer, TV set. But you'll have the same problem with voltage drop in the battery line that you have now with high power usage. This should be acceptable, just don't charge your cycle batteries if the truck isn't running John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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