bestbowl

Thank you. Got the heater to work. Don't know how. Just kicked on. The fridge is beat I think. Tried everything. Is there some part on the fridge that is infamous for going first or do I just need pull the entire thing and spend a few thousand to get an entire new one?

The fridge boiler is hot when on gas. Haven't felt it on electric yet. It gurgles the entire time though. I will check out the sail switch. Where do I find it or check if its functioning? Ive tried the heater on and off 20 times and let it run for a minute to 20 minutes. All same result. Cold air.

Thanks for the advice Ya Babe. Again, all of the obvious were went thru with a fine tooth within the first 5 minutes of the problem. I think it is more like a freon/elemental/wiring issue. I was wondering if they share some sort of same circuitry of heating element (although they are on different sides of the coach. I think this may be a bit harder to track than a dead battery or an empty propane bottle. ;-) P.S. I did go for the sexy 1 million amp alternator. It was actually my first purchase the same day that I picked the RV up. Ive been running it for two years. I haven't actually noticed a huge difference. I may need to install some sexy 1 gauge wire for the thing to see the difference. I still kill batts right and left. I do run a really sexy 5000 watt stereo/sub system though. ;-)

Thank you for the advice Waiter. I've been in these vehicles for nearly 20 years so I am very familiar with all that you stated. You listed all of the obvious causes all of which I checked 20 times over right off the bat. I think I'm searching for the less obvious causes.

Any connection? They were both working great on Friday night and on Saturday morning the fridge stopped working on both gas and electric modes and makes a constant gurgling sound and the coach heater blows cold air even if left on for an hour. Any connection? Any ideas what gurgling and/or cold heater air could mean? Thank you 1993 Warrior

I am Cali. Do you have a cell?

Auto/column shift. Yeah, whatever you can get me would be great. It's been nearly a year I've been dealing with this. Think I can just replace solenoids and/or bypass wires? I would do anything that costs less than the $500.00 to $1000.00 it'll cost to bring it into Toyota which will have to happen in May if I cannot get it by then....

Did you ever get a chance to check this out?

My 1994 Warrior keeps locking into park and sometimes it takes 30 minutes of tugging to get it out. Now I just leave it in neutral when parked (which is pretty darned sketchy). Any ideas what would cause this? The transmission shifts smoothly, the fluid is full and clean and otherwise has zero issues. Thank you

I am thinking that is the only thing that could be hanging it up...? Just don't know if it's only an electronic/solenoid issue or a mechanical/cable etc...?

My on-the-column gear shifter is stuck in park and won't move on my 1994 Winnebego/Toyota Warrior. I disassembled the column covering and kick panel and checked if the key release/lock is functioning and it is. It releases the shifter when the key is in but the shifter still sticks in park. The only thing I can think of is that there is some sort of brake solenoid release/electrical issue hanging it up. I can shift after about 50 tries (shaking it around violently) or once every 10 starts and stops (putting it from drive to park). Any idea what this could be?

Maineah, I do not have capacitors. You think this will help? Maybe I will instal them if so. Can I feed the coach battery with a #2 (or more likely a #4?) directly from the positive terminal of the truck battery? And/or should I feed it with the new isolator?

The alt wire is a single #4 directly to the battery. It seems as the other harness of three wires may be the sensor you were talking about...?

Okay. Which one of these do you think is best suited? http://www.bestconverter.com/PowerMax-PM3B-100-100-Amp-3-Stage-Converter-Charger_p_472.html http://www.bestconverter.com/100-Amp-Power-Converter_p_371.html

WIll this converter work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POWERMAX-100-amp-RV-Power-Converter-Battery-Charger-/180728473105?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1441a611#ht_1454wt_673 I will have to buy a new voltmeter on Monday and I will post the readings. It's hard to see the actual size of the factory alt wire as it's enclosed in a protective plastic sheath. If it's alone in there it looks to be either #6 or #8 wire. There is a separate harness with 3 #18 or so wires-yellow with a red stripe, red and white (which may or may not be your "remote sense" wiring). So with this combo I don't know if it clarifies if the charging wire is alone in the sheath or wrapped up with the remote sense making the positive only #10. I may have to just tear into it and see... As far as the coach #10 positive; do you think I should bypass it and run #4? With the factory circuitry, panel, etc., would this even make a difference or would I need to upgrade everything to make the #10 to #4 positive wiring upgrade worth while/make any difference?