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Refer issues, maiden voyage


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I just returned from my first major trip in my 78 Mini-Max. I had some newbie questions regarding refrigerator operation. 1) How long is it OK to run refer off 12 volt with engine stopped? I drained engine battery twice while camping(once overnight and second time for two hours). Seemed that coach battery was not connecting to system. I had a slow blow fuse, so I couldn't tell if it was good. I replaced, but I have to diagnose now that I'm home. 2) Can't get steady flame from propane operation. Holding blue button gets me a flame, but it won't stay lit no matter how long it's depressed; once it's released it goes out. there is a brass box with a large brass screw going to the main burner after the blue button/valve. Do I need to open that up to increase gas flow?

Edited by JonnyRawcon
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I just returned from my first major trip in my 78 Mini-Max. I had some newbie questions regarding refrigerator operation. 1) How long is it OK to run refer off 12 volt with engine stopped? I drained engine battery twice while camping(once overnight and second time for two hours). Seemed that coach battery was not connecting to system. I had a slow blow fuse, so I couldn't tell if it was good. I replaced, but I have to diagnose now that I'm home. 2) Can't get steady flame from propane operation. Holding blue button gets me a flame, but it won't stay lit no matter how long it's depressed; once it's released it goes out. there is a brass box with a large brass screw going to the main burner after the blue button/valve. Do I need to open that up to increase gas flow?

12vdc draws a lot of amps I think it is about 8-10 amps which will kill a battery in a few hours. I would not use it unless the engine is running. Short stops like lunch should be ok if they are followed by lengthy road time to recharge house battery. '

the pilot light sounds like a bad ,, crap I can not remember what it is called but all these gas appliances seem to have one - essentially it senses heat and creates a small bit of voltage which tells the controller that a flame is present. With out that signal the controller cuts off the gas. you can try holding a bbq lighter directly on the sensor (should be right above the flame) and see if you can fool it. Once I had a water heater that would barely run - I blew the pilot line out with compressed air - then my pilot flame was a bit larger & it worked a lot better.

I would not start adjusting things just yet. If you do start changing screw settings keep careful track of how much you turn it so you can un-do your tinkering.

If you post your brand and model number you might just get some manuals at this site.

I would recommend you make sure your propane detector is good - if you have one. If not i would get one - the $60 is not worth dying to save. I have the propane detctor (it is low as propane is heavier then air) and a CO/smoke alarm on the ceiling and a fire extinguisher on board.

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Yes, the thermocouple should is a gizmo that looks like about an 8 gauge bare wire in a small bracket. The last inch or so should be in the top of the flame, so it heats up. It's a safety device so if the flame dies so does the propane. Check to see that it is in proper position to heat. If that doesn't do it, possibly try heating it very temporarily with a lighter or something and see if the flame stays on. If not, you will probably have to replace it. If it does help, then it sounds like the main flame is either adjusted improperly or the propane pressure is poor.

Steve

PS, This could drive you to "Refer Madness"!

Sorry, couldn't resist that one!

Edited by Eve "n" Stephen
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since i have the only other minmax known to be runing is that frige a instamatic gasmatic that is what myn was burned good but had bad amonia leak that thermocouple is not expensev none of the eletric worked on ours i just bit the bullet got a new norcold 323t fits ok price not ok 60045 online but work nice that company out ov buss but themocouples are sold as universal replacments my old unit not fixable

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