krilov Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Tried a bunch of times to pull the table bar thing up in my "dinette" area, but no go. Is it permanent? If so, why? You can see the tricky table and my floorplan in this photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Nothing's permanent! Is there a setscrew hidden around the back somewhere? And maybe spray a little penetrating oil on the tube so it runs down into the gap with the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpchoochoo Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 You could try tapping on it with a piece of wood while pulling up or take a longer piece of 2x4 and duct tape it to the pole down near the bottom letting a foot stick past the pole to give you some leverage, or put the wood on the seat bottom. A pad sander with no sandpaper makes a good vibrator to shake it loose while pulling up also. That is assuming there is no set screw holding it in. Mine does not have anything holding it in. The WD-40 is good idea too. Have a great day GP Tried a bunch of times to pull the table bar thing up in my "dinette" area, but no go. Is it permanent? If so, why? You can see the tricky table and my floorplan in this photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Since that table hasn't been removed on a regular basis to transform a dinette into a bed, there's a fair chance it's never been removed since the 'home left the factory. There's a chance there's been some galvanic corrosion (dis-similar metals) between the post and base. I'd try something much better than WD-40 (I'm not a big fan). My favorite is PB Blaster. I've heard good things about Kroil, though I've never found any to try. But, again, if there's no setscrew or other mechanical fastener. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I can't see it too well in the photo but if it is on a post they are tapered and get pretty tight if a lot of weight is put on it like some ones back side. If all else fails try your truck jack and an appropriate length 2X4 put a little bit of strain on one end and pull up on the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 You might try to unscrew the base flange if nothing seems to work. This would remove the table, post, and base. From there you can do just about anything such as put in a vice or even turn upside down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 When you've got some strain on it, try tapping around the bottom of the post with a hammer. And spray a little more penetrant while a little gap might have opened up. Let sit overnight and you might find next morning that it's just sitting there loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picklebill Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I had to resort to bajadulce's solution, and even after I removed the tube and floor socket, put the tube in a vice and hammered on the socket, it still would not come off. I had to cut the socket in half with a dremel tool to get it off. And it had only been a year or so since I had removed the tube from the socket with no trouble. Go figure! Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86rader Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Derek, whatever you heard about kroil was an understatement. The stuff really is amazing. PB is pretty good, but, it ain't kroil. And WD-40? Well, I hear it take crayon marks off pretty well. I think the trick to getting the table up is to twist it. If you have one of those strap wrench thingies, you should be able to get a pretty good bite on it. Twisting and lifting at the same time might work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 I did a quick search for kroil just to see what it was and found this... Some info from another forum that I found: Penetrating Oils Compared Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Penetrating oil .......... Average load None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Here is the link I found: http://forums.redflagdeals.com/where-find-kroil-876253/ I hope i can find a place to buy Kroil here in BC so i can try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 I discovered PB Blaster while living in NY. I think it's only in the last few years that Canadian Tire has started carrying it (I could be wrong). Since I started using PB Blaster, I've either become VERY lucky or it really works very well. No scientific testing to know which one. I never came across Kroil for sale, so never tried it. The person who told me about how effective it is also assured me that it hurts like oooo when you get it in your eyes!! Thanks for tracking down that link. I'll have to give the 'home brew' a try when I run out of PB Blaster. I've a pretty good stock brought back from the US where it is, of course, about half the price of CT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86rader Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 don't believe you can buy kroil over the counter anywhere. i think you have to buy it directly from them at kanolabs.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Available on FleaBay, too. Odd, really. On the one hand you have WD40 which is basically cr@p but well advertised and known by everyone (who doesn't know better) as the best thing since 'sliced bread'. On the other hand you've got Kroil, which is hard to buy and virtually unknown! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee & Joan Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Kroil is on sale at Midway http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=137203&cm_cat=Retail_Flyer&cm_ite=Hot_Deal_1&cm_lm=sp:elrf@nwtec.com&cm_ven=Spop-Email&cm_pla=Retail_Flyer_225201110_1&CustNum=102374590 $6.69 "the oil that Creeps" I guess it is considered a good gun cleaner / lube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee & Joan Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Midway is a gun, hunting suppler, so you might be able to find it in Canada at an outfitter supply place. No guns in Canada? I see that it got 60+ out of 60+ positive reviews at the Midway site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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