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Oak tree VS Toyota


gjewers

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A nice heavy, early, wet, California snow (Sierra Cement) put an Oak tree down on the cab-over portion of our MH. It broke 3 of the front windows, broke the steel frame on one side, bent the whole front works out of shape and bulged the side walls just a tad. The coach to cab seal is intact and the cab was not hurt at all. I'm thinking of tearing it down from the front of the cab-over section to the back or the cab where the main coach body starts. Anybody have any pointers on conducting this intense of a rebuild? Stuff like preserving the sheet metal, where to get parts, windows, new sheet metal etc. What steps to take first. And how to redesign the whole thing. If I do this I'm not expecting a purse from a sows ear but any advise will be helpful. I,ve added a few photos so you get the idea. Thanks again. gj

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Ouch! Go for it. Start with looking for windows. Do you think you can salvage the sheetmetal siding. Is if you can, just bend that metal roof framing back, install a couple new studs to support metal framing. Save old wooden window frames and make new frames.Repanel the interior crushed section, install new/used windows and you'll be one your way. Good luck Oh can you tell me about your overhead bed set-up looks like you modified it a bit. Thanks

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Ouch! Hope you weren't actually sleeping in the cab when this happened?

Did you lose your front windshield as well or any damage to the cab? Do the truck's doors close etc? Sounds like the coach absorbed the majority of the damage saving the truck. Guess it could have been worse. Gluck, One of those jobs you'll just have to get creative with. Solutions prob won't come to you till you start tearing things apart. Personally, I might look into doing away with the front windows.

If I lived anywhere close by (Santa Cruz), I'd offer to come check it out and help run some ideas with you. Will be an interesting thread to keep an eye on! :)

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No idea on the repair except like Baja said just start taking things apart and see what you need to do.

Was it insured?? Several folks have let the insurance company "total" their rigs and then bought them back cheap.

That might give you enough working capital to fix it, of course you will end up with a salvage title and that may effect future resale.

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Take a look at the 'Builder Photos' here and maybe you'll pick up some ideas to rebuild and even improve the structure.

http://www.glen-l.co...rs/glenlrv.html

Like this. Why can't we have as much structure in ours!

http://www.glen-l.co...ard/rvpic2.html :ranting2:

And an idea to stop your roof sagging!

http://www.glen-l.com/campers/rv-picboard/rvpic12c.html

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Ouch! Go for it. Start with looking for windows. Do you think you can salvage the sheetmetal siding. Is if you can, just bend that metal roof framing back, install a couple new studs to support metal framing. Save old wooden window frames and make new frames.Repanel the interior crushed section, install new/used windows and you'll be one your way. Good luck Oh can you tell me about your overhead bed set-up looks like you modified it a bit. Thanks

I'm probably going to eliminate the front windows and maybe the sides too for the sake of simplicity. The cab is fine. The side walls are slightly askew but not too bad. Thinking about reframing with steel studs. Will document the progress. It is insured and it was totalled and will be buying it back. (250.00$) The mod to the bed is a fold-down extension. 1/2" plywood reinforced with ripped 2x4's and piano-hinged to either side of the front walls. I added 16" to the width of the bed. Also made some swing-out brackets to support it when down. The top side has the reinforcing so I then glued in some appropriate thickness egg-crate foam. It stays in the up position with some gate type latch bolts that fit into holes drilled into the steel wall framing. Another pad covers the whole bed so you don't really notice a gap. Makes a big difference and we sleep better with the extra room. I used red oak plywood for looks. gj

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I like the description of your extended bed! Sounds like a super modification.

The snow looks like a big obstacle; cold, wet, and a miserable environment to do work on a project like this. I'd tarp it and call it a winter.

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  • 4 years later...

It's been a long time in coming but I am finally posting some photos of the rebuild of the Oak tree damage. Finished it a while back but the photos got lost in the meantime. Thought I had more of the outside finish work so will add a few more if anyone is interested. Also, the link is just photos, if anyone would like more info, let me know.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hbop50xb2jh18f4/AACK2mR_CK6g2a_7KRkBTIaSa?dl=0

Let me know if the link works. Thanks.

Onward! :ThumbUp:

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I tend to over-build everything. Adding steel frames and solid plywood for the floor really upped the weight. Front axle at the limit, rear a little on the heavy side as far as GVWR.

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I tend to over-build everything. Adding steel frames and solid plywood for the floor really upped the weight. Front axle at the limit, rear a little on the heavy side as far as GVWR.

Nice job! I'm glad to see that you got rid of the windows. How many inches did you 'extend' your new cabover, forward? It looks to me that you re-designed about 6" more forward?

~Riverman77

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Nice job! I'm glad to see that you got rid of the windows. How many inches did you 'extend' your new cabover, forward? It looks to me that you re-designed about 6" more forward?

~Riverman77

Good eyes! It is a 6" extension to the actual floor. With the new pointed nose it makes for just about a queen size bed in there. Really makes a big difference. I think the actuall point is between 6-8" horizontaly also. I had to put a cross beam on the interior ceiling to strengthen the roof even though there is a steel member up there. I tends to make head contact on ocassion and the screws sweat when cold out. Otherwise, completely happy with it.

greg

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Nice job! I'm glad to see that you got rid of the windows. How many inches did you 'extend' your new cabover, forward? It looks to me that you re-designed about 6" more forward?

~Riverman77

Just looked at the photos again. I eliminated the front window, but did put in sliding side windows. Not sure if they add to, or compromise the wall strength. Not having the full length aluminum sheets lessens the shear but we welded in gussets and having a solid plywood floor helps too I'm sure.

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I'm probably going to eliminate the front windows and maybe the sides too for the sake of simplicity. The cab is fine. The side walls are slightly askew but not too bad. Thinking about reframing with steel studs. Will document the progress. It is insured and it was totalled and will be buying it back. (250.00$) The mod to the bed is a fold-down extension. 1/2" plywood reinforced with ripped 2x4's and piano-hinged to either side of the front walls. I added 16" to the width of the bed. Also made some swing-out brackets to support it when down. The top side has the reinforcing so I then glued in some appropriate thickness egg-crate foam. It stays in the up position with some gate type latch bolts that fit into holes drilled into the steel wall framing. Another pad covers the whole bed so you don't really notice a gap. Makes a big difference and we sleep better with the extra room. I used red oak plywood for looks. gj

Greg,

You said (4 years ago) that your insurance company had totaled your Itasca and you then bought it back from them for $250. Now that you have restored it to better and stronger than it was, will your insurance company have any trouble insuring it again? Will you forever have a blemish on your title saying the word "insurance totaled vehicle"? I'm simply curious. I've often wondered what my own insurance company would do, if I had a serious claim. We are kind of a specialized group of people that drive around 30 year old RV's.

~Riverman77

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I'm running late right now but in a nutshell, I have Triple A and they DID reinsure us. I believe the title says Salvage but will double check and get back to you.

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