Replace or lube fan motor on hydro flame furnace?

[BobBeery]

The furnace in our 87 Dolphin was working, heating and responding to the thermostat. BUT the squeal from the fan motor was unbearable, so today I just pulled the furnace out and got down to the motor. No surprise there is no provision to lube the motor, that went out in the 1950's. However there is a shield where the shaft comes out of each end of the motor which is shaped so that oil put at the shaft-shield junction would run down inside. Dare I try oiling the motor? Will oil get all over the inside of the motor and shorten the motor's life? Should I just pop for a new motor and not worry about this? If so, does anybody know where I can get a new motor? Or should I not try to save some bucks and just install a whole new furnace (ouch$)? Note the furnace would not pull off the outside exhaust flange--the pipes are corroded together. I reached into the exhaust pipe and filed off two rivets to separate the furnace from the outside flange, but I cannot reassemble in reverse. There is no access to install new rivets or small bolts. Help??

[Maineah]

Well I'll tell you I had one of the $200 fan motors doing the same thing on my VW and in their infinite wisdom the thing is pressed together never to come apart again so I put the thing over a bucket and poured oil inside of the motor it's still running fine after several months. All I did was let it drip dry. So I guess what I am saying a drop or two of oil ain't going to hurt it! I think you can take your fan motor apart it's just bolted together the only thing you will have to be careful of are the brushes it would be best to grease the shaft instead of just oil at that rate it may last another 20 years! Can't help you with the pipe I'm afraid I can't see it from Maine. Furnace cement?

[BobBeery]

Finally found hydro flame on the internet. It is now www.atwoodmobile.com. I downloaded a manual, used the dealer locator--found the nearest is 50 miles--, and sent them an e-mail asking if I could buy parts direct. They have updated the furnace to a series II with 60% higher air flow and a more efficient heat exchanger. This could be a problem if parts for the original are all gone. The old model had the exhaust pipe centered left and right. The new model has it offset quite a bit and it would not line up with the old heat exchanger. Tomorrow I'll visit my local RV parts store and see what they can do.

[Dolphinite no longer here]

Finally found hydro flame on the internet. It is now www.atwoodmobile.com. I downloaded a manual, used the dealer locator--found the nearest is 50 miles--, and sent them an e-mail asking if I could buy parts direct. They have updated the furnace to a series II with 60% higher air flow and a more efficient heat exchanger. This could be a problem if parts for the original are all gone. The old model had the exhaust pipe centered left and right. The new model has it offset quite a bit and it would not line up with the old heat exchanger. Tomorrow I'll visit my local RV parts store and see what they can do.

I had the same problem with my fan motor and instead of doing what I consider a temporary fix, I just installed a new motor. Those bearings are known as sealed for life bearings which means they are not repairable and rarely replaceable. Today's technology is so geared to simply replacing things instead of fixing them that repairable parts are quickly becoming a thing of the past.

[BobBeery]

I did ask at the local RV parts place. A new fan motor is $114 plus tax plus shipping from Elkhart IN (estimated $8). I decided to try the cheap fix and found a way to run some straight 30 weight oil into the clearance around the shaft at both ends. I ran small amounts in for several days in a row. I have reassembled the furnace and will put it back in and try it this week. Worst case is that it didn't stop the noise and I pull it back out for a new $114 motor.

[BobBeery]

I did ask at the local RV parts place. A new fan motor is $114 plus tax plus shipping from Elkhart IN (estimated $8). I decided to try the cheap fix and found a way to run some straight 30 weight oil into the clearance around the shaft at both ends. I ran small amounts in for several days in a row. I have reassembled the furnace and will put it back in and try it this week. Worst case is that it didn't stop the noise and I pull it back out for a new $114 motor.

[Gulfstream Greg]

I did ask at the local RV parts place. A new fan motor is $114 plus tax plus shipping from Elkhart IN (estimated $8). I decided to try the cheap fix and found a way to run some straight 30 weight oil into the clearance around the shaft at both ends. I ran small amounts in for several days in a row. I have reassembled the furnace and will put it back in and try it this week. Worst case is that it didn't stop the noise and I pull it back out for a new $114 motor.

Once the bearings start squealing their done. I believe they are bronze oil lite bearings. The bronze is impregnated with oil. Shaft friction on the bearing surface causes the oil to flow towards the heat lubricating the surface. Eventually the oil gets used up and can no longer supply enough lubrication. The bearing gets worn more every time it squeals and compounds the problem. Sometimes they will squeal just for a short period until the oil finally reaches the shaft. The oil impregnation is part of the manufacturing process of the brass and as far as I know can not be replenished. The brass is actually millions of small modules pressed into the form of the bearing. Adding oil to the bearing fills the voids between the modules and supplies lubricant for awhile. A new motor is pricey but the bearings should last 15 to 20 years or more.