Andrewups Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 (edited) Hi everyone, After reading a lot of topics about convertor/ battery upgrade I ended by change my PD 6300 "boiler" (WME did right too call it like that 🙂) for pd4135kw2b converter. This converter have a nice switch for Lithium battery so, now I'm looking to buy a 100 Ah smart renogy battery. Also,I found that I need to add DC DC charger ( WME added a nice link for this setup). I know I need to take off the old isolator but I found that my Toy's wipers motor is connected to isolator also. How to deal with that, should I keep the isolator and just add the DC DC charger? Or, It's a must to take it off, and I need to plug wipers motor somewhere else? Edited July 11, 2023 by Andrewups Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 (edited) On 7/10/2023 at 8:53 PM, Andrewups said: Hi everyone, After reading a lot of topics about convertor/ battery upgrade I ended by change my PD 6300 "boiler" (WME did right too call it like that 🙂) for pd4135kw2b converter. This converter have a nice switch for Lithium battery so, now I'm looking to buy a 100 Ah smart renogy battery. Also,I found that I need to add DC DC charger ( WME added a nice link for this setup). I know I need to take off the old isolator but I found that my Toy's wipers motor is connected to isolator also. How to deal with that, should I keep the isolator and just add the DC DC charger? Or, It's a must to take it off, and I need to plug wipers motor somewhere else? Hooking the isolator to the wiper motor wire was a common way to tap into an “ignition hot” power supply. Using a test light or volt meter try to locate another ignition hot wire to provide necessary power. If the isolator is redundant with your new system, just delete it. A common problem on early model Toyota’s when using the wiper motor wire to supply the isolator was the motor speed was reduced due to the isolator voltage draw. On early 2 speed wipers you could actually loose your high speed function completely. Edit: upon rereading your thread if your only concern is restoring the wiper motor to be independent of the isolator just rejoin the two blue wires together. Edited July 12, 2023 by fred heath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 You can just remove the old isolator and use the white wire as the control wire for the DC 2 DC charger. You will have to rewire the battery power leads to suit the DC 2 DC charger output. Where are you taking the 12v input from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrewups Posted July 13, 2023 Author Share Posted July 13, 2023 Sorry WME, but I will answer with the questions 🙂. How the white wire will control the DC 2 DC charger? Which battery you mean house or starter? Could you please explain more about rewiring. If I understand right the question then, for the beginning, I will use only alternator for 12v input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrewups Posted July 13, 2023 Author Share Posted July 13, 2023 On 7/11/2023 at 5:48 AM, fred heath said: Hooking the isolator to the wiper motor wire was a common way to tap into an “ignition hot” power supply. Using a test light or volt meter try to locate another ignition hot wire to provide necessary power. If the isolator is redundant with your new system, just delete it. A common problem on early model Toyota’s when using the wiper motor wire to supply the isolator was the motor speed was reduced due to the isolator voltage draw. On early 2 speed wipers you could actually loose your high speed function completely. Edit: upon rereading your thread if your only concern is restoring the wiper motor to be independent of the isolator just rejoin the two blue wires together. Now I understand why the wiper is slow, it was on my list to replace it because of speed. I will locate another ignition hot wire and keep the motor and $$$. Thanks 👍. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 Lets all get on the same page😜 What DC to DC charger do you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrewups Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 Sincerely, no one 🥴. As usual I will take time to study and understand everything I can find before I do something. I was thinking about this: I found that easy to follow, and seems that Renogy are well rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 (edited) OK Renogy makes 8 different DC to DC chargers. THE one you posted does not require a 12v control wire. So you need to splice the 2 blue wires together and your wiper will work just fine. Like Fred said. Follow the Renogy video and its easy. Make sure you use proper sized wires (4 ga) if the runs are short. You can add solar later with just 2 wires, if you are NOT planning on adding solar then the other style charger is less $$. https://www.renogy.com/12v-40a-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/ I helped some folks, this spring, with the other style unit and they require a switched 12v trigger wire. Got confused Edited July 14, 2023 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrewups Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 Thanks WME. I have another question. In the topic which I put the link here above, you said that " The DC to DC charger does have limits and you need to understand them. But for small Toyota size setups it's easy and fast." Could you please explain what limits you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 15, 2023 Share Posted July 15, 2023 Your stock alternator is 60 amps, it takes about 25 amps for power and lights. That leaves you with 35 amps, the smallest MPPT DC to DC is 30 amps. Not a lot of headroom for a depleted battery. A 100AH LifePo4 with a good BMS will take a 70 to 80 amp charge at a maximum, 40-50 amps is the max continuous safe charge You may need to also upgrade the alternator. There are bolt on replacements of 120 amps and up. You want to keep the alternator load around 50% of capacity. So 25 + 30 = 55 x 2 = 110 amps MINIMUM My rig has a 160 amp alternator and I'm running a 40 amp DC to DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrewups Posted July 15, 2023 Author Share Posted July 15, 2023 I understand. About 160 amps alternator, if I see right, that means more pressure on the timing belt. Can a Toy setup handle 160 amps alternator without any modifications? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 15, 2023 Share Posted July 15, 2023 4 hours ago, Andrewups said: I understand. About 160 amps alternator, if I see right, that means more pressure on the timing belt. Can a Toy setup handle 160 amps alternator without any modifications? My "rig" is a 30ft Winnebago with a 496 CID V-8. This is a 120 amp bolt on for a 92 Toyota Pickup...https://www.ebay.com/itm/284660936757?fits=Year%3A1992|Model%3APickup|Make%3AToyota&hash=item42471d3035:g:SeUAAOSwcdBcQfWf&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4IRsuAMipIUi1BuNill9B5RBCKg0cheQ1rIliG9e3UMHgHniGB5z974ElGs%2FjgLSd6enEnDqgR7nT6M8IU695hTMAse9ouenlhiiX04adqxsLmSdFaP4m7s8bLxB449qy3oi9D%2BtQ7X8e7kJj3V1f6Koc7XUgAxiNDdd72cRITttTPvRs1Tm5jZ0ttGLdcWMes3ZmPkz3lHu4CcA8xxmEtnxWctRkSzozv4pV5%2BhgfGFwDOMAzmzwBVGcdwvzq%2FmjZYR5vs7sWSDWWmv0C4i6ipFTGckQs2lMZo4kLqDWLQ2|tkp%3ABk9SR5yI35-rYg Its set up for a ribbed drive belt, does your "rig" have a ribbed belt or a v-belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrewups Posted July 16, 2023 Author Share Posted July 16, 2023 Thank-you for the link, my rig have a ribbed belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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