gerstboh Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 I replaced my junk auto transmission with a 4-speed that I had to pull out of my running 1987 toyota pickup and put it in my 86 belair mh .After two day of bust asz work we drove it home almost 200 mile later and knocking started rod .man o man .I don`t know what to do ? killing me ~~~ FYI drive shaft needed to be 2 inches longer & carrier bearing to short don`t ask me how I fixxed that on the side of the road lol and the clutch master had no hole on the fire wall so a hammer and a screw driver there did the trick, oo ya and as far as the stick shift had to cut a bigger hole for that to chisel and a punch . I like it much better as a stick but now the problem with the rod .Anyone looking for a 1986 toyota moter home with a a brand new clutch and a knocking 22re ? lol Glen Florida Keys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoprat Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Geeez Man... Only thing I can think of would be to bury it at midnight by a crossroads with a stake through its' heart. That'll teach it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 FYI drive shaft needed to be 2 inches longer & carrier bearing to short don`t ask me how I fixxed that on the side of the road lolLove it. I swapped an auto for a manual in my old toyota many years ago. I remember the old toyota guru at my local junkyard helping me find the correct driveshaft.Sounds like your pretty handy in a pinch. Time to get a rebuilt 22re longblock maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Are you sure its a rod and not a loose damper or flywheel or a clutch pressure plate l????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keitholivier Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Greg If you had the tranny out, then you have been through the hardest work already and getting those tight bellhousing bolts out will be easy now. I found rebuilding the motor to be fairly easy. I had the block and sump sand blasted to grey metal and painted it with zinc rich primer, then high temp black paint to prevent future corrosion issues (road salt in my case). I also had worn out bearings at 70k, I guess the previous owners didn't change the oil or filter much. I did new piston, rings and new standard size mains and big ends. Despite the shot bearings, the crankpins were all in spec and finding a place to grind the crank was a major headache and not financially viable. I put on a new head (about $280 complete), oil pump, timing gear, chain,tensioner and sprockets. Deflashed and deburred the intake manifold so it would not strip the skin off my forearm when working near it. Put on a new exhaust manifold and heat shield (best $60 I ever spent). Put in a new thermostat. Water pump was fine, but replaced the hoses out of caution. If you go this route, I found Rock auto the best, but you will also find deals on ebay (buy it now). Check the deck height on new pistons. I didn't and between the new pistons and the new head, the compression ratio was that much higher that I had to buy premium fuel ever since the rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nibs Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 OOOHHHH MMMMAAAANNNNNN, my heart goes out to you. I hope you find it aint a rod, mebee you left a socket in the bell housing. Any way hang in there, only a few more busted knuckles to get you rolling again................Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Seems coincidental that the knocking started right after the trans swap. I hope your lucky and find its something easy. One of those mechanics stethoscopes on the crank case might help. Noise can telegraph. One time in our Saab we had a really strange noise in the dash. So I asked our Saab mechanic (all he works on) and he simply said. "Your fuel pump is about to fail". Like what? He was right, konked out a couple days later. If you do have to drop in a motor, I agree with Bajadulce, a long block is the way to go. Good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerstboh Posted April 24, 2009 Author Share Posted April 24, 2009 Thank you all for the pittie party !!! lol but I do believe its the main -rod bearings can I just slap new stock bore ones in without going thru all the rest of the bs ? jus drop the oil pan and work for there ?? Thank you all for your time . Glen knocking @ 3grand rpm`s in The Sunny Florida Keys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoprat Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 I don't see any problem in just replacing the rod bearings. Be sure to use Plastiguage after you replace the bearings to make sure the clearances are ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 You can do the rod bearings easily from the bottom, but not the mains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Another option when you geter back home is to rip out the engine and just put in a crank kit and timing chain. You did not mention how many miles on the engine. Check your compression before pulling it out and if all looks good I would just do a crank kit. There is one little problem though. I am not an expert but I have heard that a knocking rod will put the bearing cap out of round on the connecting rod. Don't know if it applies to rod side also. A machine shop might be able to do a run out test for you but they might need the whole rod to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 Here is a trick you might try unless you are sure it's a rod knock. With the engine running (you may have to bring the rpm's up) and knocking remove the plug wires one at a time (pull them from the cap side so you don't end up on you backside) if it's a rod it will quiet down when you pull the right wire and if there is not a noticeable diffrence you might look else where for your noise. If it's loud, like Greg said yank'er out putting bearings in it won't cure it. Well it might for awhile but it won't last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerstboh Posted April 25, 2009 Author Share Posted April 25, 2009 it has 97k miles and I believe it might have been rebuilt once.. but thanks for all your help , we'll try the sparkplug trick and let you know the results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerstboh Posted April 26, 2009 Author Share Posted April 26, 2009 correction its 95k miles... and after starting it today to check .. we noticed that there was no prominent sound ... the motor sounded good and still had full power. then after driving it for about 15 miles the engine was heated up(not overheating) and started (clacking) not so much a knocking sound... The truck has new water pump, new radiator.... any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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