Maineah Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 Remove and clean the battery terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott iv Posted November 12, 2021 Author Share Posted November 12, 2021 Yea, my battery terminals are like new. I replaced them at the beginning of the Summer. Battery is 3 years old but still holds a good charge. I'll loosen, brush the terminals. I'm leaning toward it being the ignition switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 If they have replacement terminals remove the bolts and clean under them and the wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott iv Posted November 13, 2021 Author Share Posted November 13, 2021 I thoroughly cleaned the terminals and connections and no change. When turning the key to ignition there is no change in voltage at the battery, no sound; nothing. I rechecked my grounds, ign fuse. We'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 You are taxing my memory but I kind of remember a fuse link, it would be a wire with soft insulation and maybe tag kind of like a flag on the wire. They were meant to burn out with an over load sort of like a long fuse. They were popular around that vintage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott iv Posted November 21, 2021 Author Share Posted November 21, 2021 Sorted out the electrical gremlin after much trial and error. Was able to test the ignition switch which worked fine. All fuses good; replaced AM1 and 2 fuses just out of frustration. Unwrapped wire and cut out and shortened the fuseable link to the 80A fuse as the connection was terrible. Reconnected and soldered. None of these things made a difference. Removed and disassembled my neutral/park safety switch and cleaned it for a second time. lightly sanded all of the copper contacts, degreased and very lightly regreased. I noticed one of the contact bars had a wear line in it. Switched the bars around after lightly sanding both. Replaced the rubber o rings. That resolved the no ignition issue. Haven't started the machine yet as I am waiting on a new radiator. Sure was nice to turn the key and hear it crank though after taking half my dash apart following wires! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott iv Posted November 23, 2021 Author Share Posted November 23, 2021 Was able to get the motor running yesterday and idling. Set the rotor to 5 degrees BTDC and she fired up. Slow idle and a lot of valve chatter. I will redo my valve lash adjustments to reduce the loud chatter and get it running a bit smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott iv Posted November 26, 2021 Author Share Posted November 26, 2021 Coolant leak along the block on the passenger side. Was the metal line connecting to the intake manifold and one of the bolts had sheered. Had to remove the intake manifold, drill out the bold, and replace. Replaced the o ring and carefully re tightened the line onto the intake before tightening the intake manifold bolts. Two electrical connectors broke from their wires when reassembling again and needed to be soldered and repaired. Almost ready to restart and time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott iv Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 Final thoughts on DIY head gasket repair: The job is doable but not easy for the home mechanic. Problems I encountered included 3 broken bolts that needed to be removed (I use reverse drill bits for the job), electrical gremlins, broken electrical connectors, and coolant leaks. Getting the head off required some disassembly and moving electrical parts around. The age of the electrical components and moving them contributed to their failure. Working on an older machine has its pros and cons. Pros: not as complicated electronically, the 22re is known for being easy to work on, plenty of space to work for the most part, few wrench sizes needed for 22re, few different bolt sizes, torque tends to be low so not difficult loosening most bolts. cons: older electricals are getting brittle, older bolts break, parts have to be ordered and if you make a mistake, reordered. DIY'ers make no mistake, its a pretty big job. You will see testimony of 5-6 hours start to finish. I respect those who were able to make that accomplishment because it took me longer. Have self awareness of your skill sets as you will be doing electrical as well as mechanical. Be prepared to handle broken and brittle parts along the way. Replace o rings you encounter or you will be digging them back out after they leak when you reassemble. Take pictures of where all of your vacuum hoses go. Have a good shop manual for the vehicle. Use Youtube for tips and problem solving ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 I think you did an incredible job. No mechanical work on older vehicles goes by the book. A good mechanic is able to deal with the glitches which you had a lot of. Some really impressive work tracking down wiring problems. Bravo Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott iv Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 Thank you Linda. Yes, our beloved vehicles are not getting any younger but are still worth the effort! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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