john*thomas

Right. I've seen people do a transplant that looks great but this makes no sense.

Time? It depends.......and this may not even be your problem. It does sound like a wiring problem but it could be in the switch in the steering column. Do some of the easy work yourself. Your wiring should ground to the chassis somewhere. There will be a wire with a small screw that goes into the frame. Take the screw out. Check your wiring. Is the piece of metal the screw goes through connected good? Take some sandpaper and sand it. Get a new screw. (any hardware store). Sand the area around the hole in the frame so that its bare metal. Put back together. You then at least have a good ground there. Generally the switches are made of plastic. (I've never replaced a Toyota turn signal switch) but I have others. Over the years they get loose and come apart. Try this next time it's not working. Put your emergency flashers on and see if they work. I will have mine randomly quit. I read where it was somewhat common with Nissan Truck. I was told to turn flashers on and try again. I did and presto, they work.

Yes it can be the wiring. As I said, it sounds like you could have a bad ground. Not a hard fix but one has to find the ground and clean it up.

It's very hard to diagnose a problem over the internet. Initially it sounds like you have a bad ground. Has the light socket ever been replaced? They corrode over time.

I think every single Nissan used GL5 gear oil in rear ends for years as did a ton of other vehicles. Will the gears swap out with standard truck gears? I don't know about that but if I had to find out, that is where I would start. There is so little power here that I have to think with proper maintenance they will last many miles. Supposedly GL5 will damage the brass synchro's which is why GL4 is used in transmission.

A Haynes manual will be an excellent investment. I have one for my 87. The cab and running gear is all Nissan.

I would use this. https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-90-75w90-gl-4-gear-oil I believe the trans takes roughly 2.5 quarts. I believe the fill is on top also and you have to have a pump to fill it. I have seen where people can fill from engine compartment IF you have a long enough piece of hose. You can use the same in the rear though many will argue to use GL5 (the above is GL4). 1.5 quarts I believe. Do NOT use GL5 in the transmission. And btw........the information is the exact same as looking up 1985 Nissan truck. If you look up 1985 Nissan Citation Motorhome you most likely will come up empty.

So cool.

Almost 30 years ago I had a really nice solid 78 bus. It got hit pretty hard in the rear and I was only able to sell it for parts. I so wish I had it back now.

If it's really nice they seem to be bringing good money on eBay.

As Linda noted, start a new thread. It does appear to be 5 lug. Your camper looks great though and if there is water damage it appears quite minor for an 84. Most certainly nice enough to address the rear axle.

If you have the capability of swapping this onto a newer 4X4 and can do a quality job, you have a very desirable until worth some pretty good money.

As I get older having a decent seat is important. You say it's shot but the upholstery is good. If that is the case the foam part can be replaced. I did a quick look and didn't see Toyota specific but they are pretty basic seats. I'd take it to an upholsterer and see what they could do. They can easily carve out a piece of foam. You could upgrade but if I was to do that I would want to do both but that is up to you.

I like the 2nd one in Linda's post and IMO a far better deal as it won't cost you anything to have towed home. Other than quite a few miles on it a pretty nice unit.

That's an 83 cab. The 22r was produced from 1981 to 1997. Is yours the original? I would have no idea. There should be a serial number somewhere to date it.

I have to concur. You likely won't stop your leaks unless you replace the A/C seal. I tried a few things but leak, leak, leak. I replaced the seal and the leaks stopped.

I don't have one but I'd love to have an 18 foot one. To note, they also made them 20 foot.

I would think it would depend on your manufacturer to a point. They all aren't all exactly the same.

Check your actual seal on the A/C. It's not going to do any good to seal if the A/C seal is no good. They aren't expensive and really not that hard to change. If it looks like your A/C is sitting on the roof it needs replaced. With a new gasket it will sit up off the roof.

Second trip to just make sure all is good before taking a longer trip. It did rain on us but it seems I have all the leaks sealed for now at least. No leaks and the fridge works so......... Someone made the remark that they liked our "little" RV and I didn't even realize how small it is until I looked around and most important, the pup likes going.

Mine has been sealed before and it was done messily. It wasn't done correctly. As noted though, I didn't tear it all out to fix the leaks correctly either. Rather than gut mine making it unusable I will probably address one window at a time. You need to get rid of the black moldy stuff. it's not good for you. What I would do.......without actually being there to see yours. If someone wanted to fix it all "right" it would be torn out. We have already discussed this though. I don't think you have to...........I had a bad place in my overhang. There is NO drooping of my overhang so I assumed it was overall OK. It did dig out as much of the old black soft moldy wood as I could and sprayed it all down with a mold/mildew spray and let it dry. (you have to stop the leaks first). When I bought mine you could smell the wet moldy stuff. That smell is all gone. Backtracking.........my camper door had leaked and the inner skin was bubbled/rotted at the bottom. I took the door apart and surprisingly the frame was solid. The corner had a small amount of damage but it was still solid. I went to Lowes and bought a sheet of (I don't know what it's called) of plastic that looks like corrugated cardboard but it's plastic. It's easy to cut and not expensive (I think $22 a sheet) and cut out a new inner door skin. I then had enough left over to address my overhang. I simply cut a piece that covered where I had chipped the old stuff away. The mattress and curtains covers that area and you can't see it anyway. If I get another leak it's not going to rot and mold. You could replace most of your overhang with this. It looks good but you will have to be looking for leaks. Easy to cut and cheap and isn't going to rot. Yours (as mine was) is white anyway. Your vent............I replaced my A/C seal and I was surprised. I had some damage to the wood sheets but again, no damage to the frame it sits on. A lot depends on how solid your frame is. Would I rip the ceiling out? No. First thing I would do is get it dried out and the mold mitigated and go from there. IMO.

My mistake. I just saw the current bid price. I didn't realize it was an auction. Yeah, that seems more like it.

I would have expected over 50k. Only problem in a Toyota is the thing would end up awfully heavy.

What I did may not be best for you. When I bought mine I posted about how someone had painted with a brush and it looks pretty crappy. It ran really good, things worked and the inside was pretty decent. It was relatively cheap so I bought it. I'm leaving out here shortly for our second trip in it. At some point I need to sand the the thing down and repaint but what I did on minor leaks was spray clear flex seal around the window. It does a good job of seeping in. I had a front window leak, rear window and A/C. I replaced the A/C seal but just sprayed the windows. What's good is it is clear so you barely see it. Do I have water damage inside the walls? I have no doubt I do BUT it's still solid and stopping the leaks mitigate any further damage. Is major damage with mold a concern? It should be. Poke around and do your best to look for this. IMO

As far as bugs and sealing go you aren't going to permanently seal out bugs. My wife hates bugs and we would see an ant here or there. I set off a bomb on the inside. They make them now that leave no residue. I've not seen a single ant since. To be safe I set another off about a month later and set one off under the RV. You should be able to re-use whatever screws you take out. Cutting holes are easy. They make round saws that fit on the end of a drill that easily cut holes. Cheap. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-5-Piece-Carbon-Steel-Hole-Saw-Set-with-Arbor/756902139?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2078&&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=aud-1028050746458:pla-51320962143&wl5=9015936&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=120643079&wl11=local&wl12=756902139&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw0qOIBhBhEiwAyvVcf0b0Q4UksamhhZb_-QATfnfuvEh1J650pVB5uR299z4LGD0RBiH4QxoCS4IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds