grandview bill

Im installing a Onan 2500Lp in a Toyota1993 Warrior today that we just bought.This is the second warrior i have installed an Onan in.They just fit! The original Kohler in the first Mh was a poor design.It couldnt start the microwave.T,he Kolher fell out of the Mh on a trip to the UP.The Onan I replaced it with was gas,they need more maintenance on the carbs and cannot be rebuilt.Since the rv we just bought never had a generator I need to run propane lines and 12v and 120v lines.This is not a easy job,but when we stop along Lk Superior to make lunch and its raining out,I push a button and we have power.You dont need transfer switch.The Onans are great generators I got lucky.the day after We purchased Toyota #2 the Onan2500 showed up inFB for $450.I have a soft spot for Onan, they offered me a job in their technical department in 1978

the roof sagging under the weight of the air conditioner contributed to the delam in my 92 Warrior,I reinforced the roof area around the AC. some of the delam reduced,not a cure all but a starting point.run a string across the ac area,mine sagged about two inches.no matter how you take care of the rv ,gravity will cause all these roofs to sag,as the roof sags the geometry of the coach changes causing the top of the outside walls to tip inward.as I would enter the side door and look at the upper cabinets you could see uneven gaps in the cabinet fit between the ceiling and the wall. also the ac cover does not fit tight against the ceilining.when you are looking to buy this is an easy check to see if the roof is sagging in

thanks

Hi...does anyone have any experience with washing the factory upholstery covers on a 1993 Toyota Winnebago ?

we just purchased a 1993 Toyota 2 days ago ,we looked for 2 years and were always a few hours late .We found an excellent condition unit an hour from our home In Minnesota. The best part of this story is the seller,he was building an airplane in his pole building along side the Toyota, not just an ultra light ,but a fully alum skinned high wing,his attention to detail he put in his aircraft showed up in the Toyota we bought from him

a simple dash mounted switch to energize the solenoid when paralleling is needed is what I have,the stock system of paralleling the two dissimilar baterries when the ignition is on ,shortened the coach battery life

another problem area...some of the clearance lights splice in the base of the light...these can go bad...my complete string of lights went out...the natural assumption was to check at the source...but the problem was at the first light in line ,leaving the whole string dead

Yes there can be too much information,just read here....dont you people have a life?

calling theNEC full of fluff shows an incomplete understanding of the NEC ,the language is terse ,,legally bindig.Also the statement that 15 amp circuits are for lighting only is also wrong ,Most of the wiring in a modern home is #14 .Fred has it right ,youre wrong again

might be caulked in tightly to the surrounding surface,as was one I repaced...and do you know the removal route? on my 1992 Warrior the previous owners had the Dometic replaced and the shop had to remove a window to get it out.I bult a small wood platform to rest the fridge on ..as it comes out so high off the ground

also make sure all the breakers are in the ON position in the 120 panel board . Then plug in the lamp to a 120 receptacle, before adding any large loads like AC or microwave.

There is no transfer switch, where you plug in the cord takes care of that function,The cable is the choke cable. There is no manual control of engine speed, the governor takes care of that. If the breaker is on check for output by using a small lamp with a 60 watt lamp to see if there is any AC output at all.

if you want to power the camera and monitor in reverse only, you would take power from the back-up light, splicing into the wire that supplies the light. you would also need to send this power to the monitor. with a wire going thru the pipe to turn on the monitor at the same time. there is also a cable going from the camera to the monitor to supply the signal. so, there are two different wires in the pvc pipe, one for 12 vdc power, the other for signal. I chose to be able to manually turn on the camera anytime. then I took power from the cab fuse block, mounted the switch shown in the picture. you would still have the same number of wires in the pipe. except now the power goes to camera from the cab instead of from the back up light....there are fused leads available today that make picking up power from the fuse block just a matter of sliding a clip onto the fuse block

so far we're having a real winter, we hibernate in winter, it gets really busy in spring...so much to do

sure drive up to Lake Superior by me, its been 20 below zero. I'll stay inside and coach you while you lay out on the ground doing the under chassis wiring .....

thanks

thank you,I wont be without one from now on

more info...the camera, monitor, wiring, instructions all came as a kit form purchase the price was $35 shipped on e-bay...I chose to mount the monitor on the rear view mirror mount, for me it was the most logical place ....I also mounted a separate on -off switch on the dash, now I can use the monitor going down the highway, not just in reverse

Notes.....fishing wires under headliner and window post makes for a clean look......color and detail of monitor is good using a 3/4 pvc pipe under the chassis as a chase made the underneath wiring easier.....the standard license plate mounting covered some plate information,so I added brackets to extend the cam above the plate....overall Im pleased with the monitor,the picture quality,the main issue is the wiring and jacks are in place.Changing a camera ,or monitor is easy

IPO youre' contradicting yourself if the test light lit up when the light was in series with the alternator then its drawing current, also you have too many people ,myself included,spoon feeding you advice,when you start buying multi meters and batteries that might be a useless expense

also, have your checked for any obstructions in the airflow path, take a close look at ducting surrounding the sail switch for any blockages

its getting complicated now, the issue is not whether the fuse is good, but if the alternator is drawing current, if a diode is shorted or leaking this can happen (it did in my 65 mustang) I cant say the charging circuit is the same, but you need to use your test light in series with the lead in the 80 amp fuse to verify current draw, in my mustang the alternator would 'motor' when the battery was connected, the alternator would move slightly so would the belt and fan.

What youre doing doesnt make any sense,an uninsulated rv is not meant to be used as a dwelling in a winter climate.Just saying youre going to put foam on the walls? How? Adhesive ? Fasteners? You'll kill any resale value as you ruin the interior finish.Rigid foam panels used in construction are generally flammable,and the smoke produced is toxic .building codes require a flame resistant covering such as sheetrock.I would use a larger electric heater .set on the cooktop ,the weight is not a factor.Get a heater with a tip switch built in for safety,use smoke and CO detectors,whats your life worth?I could be a cheerleader and encourage you,but I dont believe in what you are doing...however Im not in your shoes....good luck ....Bill

Part of the Police State mentality.....think that's an extreme statement? A few years ago a read a Time Life series on Germany between the two world wars.the government kept track of all its citizens,the book showed a photograph of an actual document with a list of violations a citizen could be monitored for .most involved political activity ,at the bottom of the list was a category for 'grumbler'...I'm outspoken and a grumbler, probably will be the first to receive my cyber punishment....its all so foolish...Bill

For the last few years my wife and I have ended the camping season in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan on Lake Superior. We always are the last to leave, campgrounds are closed, the weather turns cold, we leave reluctantly. This year was no different....late October it was the last night of camping. It had been raining lightly all day and the sky was dark. We pulled into the camp site about dinner time facing Lake Superior. The site was near the water on a grassy ledge, there were no trees or vegetation between us and the lake, just sandy shoreline. The wind had started to pick up around bedtime and the rv started to sway a little from the wind, no problem the rv was snug and the swaying was soothing as was the sound of the waves crashing.....In the middle of the night the wind was really strong, the light rain was blowing horizontally...the rv was moving side to side rapidly......all of a sudden we heard BANG! it was loud..my wife asked me what that was...I dont know...minutes later we heard another one BANG! now we were both up....it sounded as if someone was hurling rocks at the Rv with all their might...BANG! another hit about 5-6 in all..I said "I dont know what that is but if its hitting the front it will break the windshield or the upper glass, Im going out and turning the rv so the rear is facing the lake'' thats what I did in the middle of the night in the middle of one of the strongest storms Ive seen on the big lake. I wondered what could have come off the lake and hit the rv with such force