Campernoob

Thank you for your response Linda. I feared my disorganized thoughts would be unclear. I've seen the written instructions for sanitizing the fresh water tanks, just like the ones you gave. I was wondering more specifically if I use some sort of attachment to keep the hose in place (& even a water pressure regulator, which I've read somewhere because some city hookups have such high pressure there is potential for damage to the lines) or do I stand & hold it in place through the whole process? And do I do anything at all with the metal mesh do-hicky on the left? It looks like it could use a cleaning but I can't get it off. And it has a clear plastic cover - when should it be on & when should it be off? And again I apologize for my onslaught of questions. I wasn't expecting anyone to answer every single one, I was more hoping that the info is already out there & people could point me in the right direction, via links (video?), for how to fill & test & drain/"winterize" Toyota MH water systems. -Todd

Hello & thanks for looking at my post. I have a 1989 Toyota Sunrader & am hoping to find links for info re: fresh, grey & black water tank maintenance. I've seen some info out there, but without pics it's hard to know how & if it applies to my Sunny. I only see/know of 2 drain outlets, one under my rear bumper which I assume is the grey water tank, and one on the driver side under my bathroom which I'm assuming is the black water tank. When it comes time for "winterizing" I am unclear how to make sure all of the lines are completely void of any remaining water. Also, I'm not even sure how to fill my fresh water tank - I thought a water hose would just screw onto the potable water inlet but it doesn't look like it will attach properly ... am I supposed to use a funnel? Or do I buy a water pressure regulator ($8 at Walmart) as I saw in another post & does that attach to the opening? And I'm unclear what the opening to the left of it is with a wire mesh cover over it, which I can't get off -- is it a vent? It will turn in both directions but it doesn't unscrew. How do/should I clean it? Also, is it true that white vinegar (1/4 cup per 5 gallons?) is an equally effective way to sanitize your FW system? If so I think I'd prefer that over the bleach method, given it would probably have less of a residual effect after flushing out. I've included pics of my fresh water inlet (there's a little tiny hole above it & what looks like maybe a rubber plug that can fit inside the tiny hole,attached to the cap cover -- what's that for?), the 2 drains I can see, my water tank/system inside under passenger back bench, the water heater (how do I drain that?), & water heater switch. As far as the water heater, that operates on propane only correct? And is turned on/off by the electric switch under the kitchen sink -- it's electric-ignited via 12V auxillary battery, not pilot light yes? Ok that was a lot of rambling & not well-organized, my apologies. I appreciate all who have responded to my previous questions and I thank you for your patience. This is all totally new to me. Thanks, Todd

Anyone have any links for "How-to" replace the clearance lights? Ideally, I'd like to just know how to find the problem preventing the clearance lights from lighting, when they were all working a couple weeks ago. The LED switch-over is something I'd like to do down the road, when I have more in my budget. Like how to I get to the wires to look for any that may have lost contact? Seems to me they run behind the upper storage cabinets & walls - do I have to cut them open to get to the wires for inspection?

All of my other lights, including my tail lights are working. It's only my clearance lights (along the top of my Sunrader) that are no longer working - none of them. So two people have told me it's probably an issue with a ground wire, not making proper contact. Strange to me this would happen when I haven't even really driven it other than to take it to have new tires installed. I have no idea how to go about resolving this, as all the wires seem to be hidden inside the walls of the rig. Any tips greatly appreciated.

Tail lights are working

Hi. I recently discovered that ALL of my clearance lights along the top of my Sunrader are no longer working, & all but 2 were working just days ago. This leads me to wonder if there's a fuse that just went bad, but I have no idea where that would be. There's no such fuse in the fuse box below the dash. Anyone know what the problem might be?

Hello and thank you for taking the time to look at my post. I am a proud new owner of a 1989 Toyota Sunrader. This is my first time owning a motorhome (MH) & I have very much to learn. I purchased this MH to live in as I travel the country for a few months. It has a working overhead AC unit but no on-board generator. I have absolutely no knowledge about generators (or MHs) & was hoping to get some advice/recommendations for a good portable generator that would have enough power to run the AC unit and possibly 1 or 2 small appliances (laptop, microwave) concurrently. I've been told to run the AC unit I would need at minimum a 3K watt gen, and from what I've seen those generators are enormous! Does anyone know if a more compact gen exists (affordability is a factor) that could handle the job? Or will I need to invest in & install a rear rack to lock a large gen onto? Also, can I plug the MHs power cable directly into the generator to run the AC, and then also use the interior 120V outlets? So in summary I'm looking for a generator that can power my Sunrader's AC unit along with providing power to the interior electrical outlets -- considerations include: affordability, portability (smaller=better), & noise level (quieter=better). Lastly, separate from the generator issue - I've been told that I can't/shouldn't use the AC when plugged into residential power via standard power extension cord, that it would blow a circuit. What type of power cord do I need to run the AC while plugged into a private residence (120V)? From what I've seen 15 amp cords are the ones that plug into standard residential 120V outlets, and 30 amp cords will only plug into 120V power at parks, correct? So is it just the size/gauge of the cable that matters, meaning can I use a 10 or 12-gauge extension cord to plug into a residential 120V outlet & use my AC without damaging anything? Like I said & my name states, I'm a total newbie. Thank you so much for reading this & any help you can give.

Hello & thank you for looking at my post. I'll cut right to the chase: Without knowing much about it, should I jump at the chance to buy a running 1987 Toyota Dolphin MH for only $3400??? I have been looking for a small Toyota MH for quite some time & I see many being offered for sale b/w $10-12K. Granted most if not all of the campers in this range claim to have had many 'upgrades'/parts replaced, but at only $3400 that would give me quite a bit of wiggle-room for any repairs that need to be done. Here's what little I know. The 87 Dolpin has ~84K miles on the fuel-injected 22RE engine, with AT. It has been advertised for at least a couple weeks & now the price has dropped from $4300 to $3400. I went to see this in person but it was hard to get a lot of information, as the seller is Russian & his daughter was trying to translate. They told me the fridge doesn't work & that they don't know about the roof ac because they never used it (they've had the camper for less than a year I think). She said it does NOT have a generator & that they used their own generator, though while inside I saw a "Generator" indicator/switch, so that should mean it's wired to have an external generator I would think. I also noticed that part of the wallpaper in the upper bed area was coming off which could possibly indicate a roof leak problem, and the stereo & speakers had been removed. So again, I'm hoping that I can get advice from experienced ToyMH owners & mechanics whether $3400 is a price I should jump at, not knowing exactly what repairs may be in store. I mean even if the engine needed a little work, roof needed re-sealing, fridge & roof a/c needed repair/replacement, & I need to have a generator installed, wouldn't I still be coming in at well under the $10K mark that many of these campers are selling at? Thoughts? Again, thank you for your time reading & hopefully giving your input to my post. Cheers & Happy Holidays! Todd

Hello, good day and thanks for reading my very first post on this website. I just joined today but have used this site several times to search motorhomes & gain valuable knowledge to help me in my purchase. For well over a year I've been looking (mostly casually) for a camper I can live out of as I travel the states for a few months. Originally I was looking for a VW Westfalia because I was vaguely familiar with it & liked that it could be my daily driver as well as my short-term live-in camper. Best of all I liked that the pop-top gave me plenty of head room in the kitchen area of the van (I'm 6'3"). I knew I would have to get a porta-potty, & find rivers, lakes, & gyms for bathing. After talking to a lot people & doing research I found that the models to buy were 1986-91 for the improved engine & cooling system, but even then they can require a lot of repair/maintenance, and the market price/going rate for these 20+ year-old campers start at the 13K. For a very brief time I was excited about conversion/camper vans with the hightop roofs, as they offer plenty of headroom for me, but the thought of those 8-cylinder engines along with the vans' weight sucking up gas (prob 8-10mpg at best) quickly ceased that search. Ok, I'll stop rambling I get to my point. What I'm really looking for is the least-expensive, most reliable & gas efficient camper I can find. I have heard that travel trailers (the pop-up types) are an excellent way to go, but that will not work for me as I do not have a vehicle that can tow one. Also at $30-50/night I don't plan on staying at campgrounds very often during my travels. I can spend a night curbside in a small MH 'in cognito' much more easily than I can in a pop-up travel trailer. It seems to me from my online research that these Toyota MHs are the way to go, and I will just need to get used to ducking while inside. 1. I've only heard great things about Toyota's 4-cylinder 22re engine. I've seen some claims that it can get up to 22mpg, however most people report an avg of about 15mpg. This isn't any (or much) different from several posts I've seen for the v6 where people report an avg of 14-15mpgs. I would like some feedback as to whether or not I should even consider the v6 model. If the v6 is equally reliable & both the v6 & 22re get on avg. 14-15mpgs, isn't the v6 a better option for power going uphill? 2. What are my options for having power while not "plugged in?" It seems that most models require a generator, but I'm wondering if there are models that have a 2nd auxillary battery that charges while the motor is running? If not is that practical/affordable option to have installed? I'm also thinking about solar panels but figure that will be most costly option for going "off the grid." Thank you very much for your time & consideration, Todd