Maineah

One of the biggest considerations with any engine swap is nothing is stock. You can’t go to the parts store and buy an exhaust pipe for a Chevota for example it either has to be made or bought from the manufacture of the kit. They make that stuff in very limited quantities so it’s like buying parts for aircraft very expensive! When Toyota or any one else for that matter designs their vehicles every thing is taken into consideration (weight spring rates, breaking, handling, wiring, ease of service etc.) so if you are not handy with tools a different engine may not be a good ideal. Even Toyota to Toyota is not easy if it is not exactly the same you will run into problems. Non fuel injected Toyota to fuel injected miles of wiring and ECU’s different exhaust pipes, fuel pumps it’s not for the faint of heart. Lower gearing will help and maybe some bolt on stuff but it is still going to be slow. Stay away for the interstates take the back roads stop for ice-cream go 250 miles a day instead of 500 live life in the slow lane!

Wow I never heard of a dealer not wanting to sell you some thing! Get the Toyota ones they have all the little hardware parts with after market ones you just get pads.

Like bodybagger said they will cook a battery great for a quick charge to get you started nothing more.

I would love to find a 3.5 Buick/Rover V8 I had a TR8 Triumph and years ago we put them in MGB's and MGC's They were 9 pounds lighter then the 4 cylinder "B" engines and 90 pounds lighter then the "C". The only issue is the strange bolt pattern nothing other then the Buick/Olds 3.5 transmission will fit and the automatics were only 2 speed and air cooled to boot. I'm sure there are adapters around some where to fit a modern auto trans we redrilled the MG adapter plates. Rover still uses a veriation of the Buick but they are hard to find. Rover P3's had a Borg Warner 3 speed automatic. Got a friend in England?

The little gadget is most likely a fuel pressure regulator it is after market not Toyota you might think about removing it and see what happens frankly I think they were snake oil when they were first made. It is possible it is starving your engine for fuel. I think you do have a smog pump if it is not hooked up it probably is no good any way does it still have a belt on it? They did not last long even new. The 4cyl Toyota MH are slow that is all there is to it and the non fuel injected ones were even slower. I don't know about you but when I'm on vacation I'm in no hurry an way so it does not bother me.

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My Acer laptop draws 45 watts @ 120 volts. Most laptops should work fine with the lighter plug inverters. I would stick with the laptop power supply and the inverter the supply is clean and well regulated.

What WRE is referring to is the inside of the radiator, the tubes, over the years they can get clogged with yuck and that reduces the cooling capacity of the radiator. As far as your fan clutch when it is warm it should move a lot of air, warm the engine up and rev the engine a bit you should hear the fan. When it is cool the fan blades should have a bit of resistance with the engine off turn the blades by hand a see if it gives you a bit of resistance if it turns real easy or spins free the cultch is probably toast. As far as anti freeze 50% is about tops pure anti freeze is not real good for your engine but it should not make it run hot.

You might check the fan clutch mine is is pretty noisy at high way speed you can defiantly hear it. If it is turning free it will get hot with the A/C on.

We have replaced all of the cop car laptops they were tough, alloy cases etc. However they were going through hard drives like crazy from the pounding they took on the road while they were running. So I guess if you are going to run the computer on the go for navigation etc. have a look at the solid state hard drive ones first.

They do, red,blue,green I think even two tone! And you can add a music module to them to make them dance to the music! Please send pictures Sadie.

Some are even geared lower then 4.1 like 4.56 (the bigger the numbers the lower the gearing so with a 4.1 the drive shaft turns 4.1 times to one revolution of the wheel) you will want a lower geared rear 3.9 is way too high for your set up. With some thing as high as 3.9 you may never get it out of 3rd gear!

If you have a friend that is clever with wiring they are pretty easy it does involve cutting and splicing I wired mine into the interior light wiring with their own 3 amp fuses. The little blue box is the power supply for the lights it converts the 12 volt camper voltage to a high voltage to light the lamps. They were designed to be used in side of a gaming computer (the guys that are into that love lit up computers) so the red and black wires that are part of the computer wiring kit need to be cut free from the kit to power the lights. The red and black wires plug into the power supply with a tiny plug they are what makes it go. The black wire is - or ground and the red is + 12 volts that is the only wiring that joins to your MH. The kits come with Velcro sticky back things to mount the power supply and the light fixtures. You may not want white lights in your little MH they come in different colors so you can live it up with your own light scheme!

I don't know too much about the swamp coolers but I would guess it gets it's water from the fresh water tank so you would have to worry about water usage and battery drain to run the pump and fans. The generator sets are pretty well mounted in rubber mounts wonder if you may have a bad mount? It must be running fine or you would not have the power to run the A/C. They all vibrate a bit you definitely know its running but it should not shake the coach. I'm pretty sure shandamac has a swamp cooler you might pm her and see how she likes hers.

It was good 1,000 mile round trip one day I'll have to figure gallons per hour seems like I can drive for 3 hours per tank +/-. 3 hours is just about perfect for my old body a little walk around 13-14 gallons of fuel and off again. There is a hill in QC that they call the 4 mile hill and it is about 12% 2nd gear the entire way up.

This may not be your problem but my A/C was way noisy because the gasket was shot and the A/C was laying on the roof. Often people tighten the mounting bolts to cure leaks so it maybe sitting flat on the roof with a squished gasket. They are not very quiet but you should be able to sleep with it on. Is it OK plugged in?

Looks great Greg good job have fun on your trip I just returned from a Canadian trip yesterday.

My cabinets were as dark as the inside of a boot so I took apart an old LCD monitor and used the back lights for lighting. I do not recommend that as an option however it took for ever to get it apart and there are unprotected high voltage parts exposed like in excess of 600 volts. So with some web browsing I found these: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556012009.html they are 12 volt CCFL's 12" long for $5.95! The whole kit lights, power supply and wiring. They are designed for gaming computers so they have molex connectors that plug into the computer supply but if you have a working knowledge of wiring they are a snap to install every thing plugs in and is tightly sealed for shock protection. So if you are looking for some cabinet lighting they can't be beat.I had thought of using them for regular lighting but they really are not bright enough too bad they only draw 5 ma

I have a plastic Nova Star also and my A/C was leaking slightly in a driving rain. At the time I was not sure it was the A/C but I had resealed every thing else it did not leak through the A/C but ran down the edge and across the top of the interior roof paneling and came out by the cabinets. Well some where along the line some wing nut had glued the A/C to the roof with silicon all the way around it I had to literally cut the thing from the roof with a special tool. There was a gasket under it maybe the original about 5/16 thick. My roof has a bow in it also but now the rain can run from under the A/C instead of sitting inside. I bought the gasket from an RV dealer it was about 1 1/2 thick and sticky on one side to keep it in place. Once it was compressed it probably sits up off the roof about 3/4 to 1" it comes with 2 pieces that fit on the rear of the A/C to make it level. If yours is fiberglass they put the top fiberglass piece over a plywood roof supported by 3/4" aluminum bows it is not glued. It rained here in Maine 10" in both June and July and it has not leaked a drop and is considerably quieter! The RV dealer told me the gasket should be fine for at least 5 years.

As far as the carpet I had a guy that does home carpet install the new carpet in mine he used tack strips and brought the carpet right up to every thing perfect fit and he only charged me $75. (+ the carpet that I bought) The entire deal was only $155. I had wood floors in mine and pulled them out I like warm feet.

With no air you should be fine. Just be sure it is quiet enough not to disturb your neighbors.

My 4 cylinder gets 53 mpg........ (it is however a VW diesel) I thought the 6 only got 20 mpg when it came time to sell it.

The "D's" are your best bet they will stand the loading. Some times you will see "LT" (light truck) Don't expect them to handle like the ones on your Porsche they don't bend much.

You are 100% correct have no ideal where I pulled that out from. I even have some fairly worn long 008 and .012 feeler gauges.

I worked for a local garage 15 years ago I was not very impressed with the Hankooks their quality matched the price but they are still in business so they must have improved.