Maineah

I would have to say the Trojan batteries are probably the best, AMG's are nice but very pricey. Trojan batteries are what you usually find in golf carts. They will with stand lots and lots of discharge cycles. I have a 120AH 12 volt one that is now 6 years old that has been run dry twice (got rid of that charger)and it's still going strong. When I go up to Canada I run all my stuff for a full week (little or no heater useage) with out a recharge.

I would try some one local they are pretty heavy shipping might be pricey. Try a local independent shop they maybe able to rebuild it cheaper them you can buy one and have it shipped. They have not made that transmission in quite awhile so finding a used one with low mileage/use is going to be hard. If you get a used one and it has problems or buy a rebuilt and it does not work right you are going to be stuck with shipping twice some thing to think about.

The by pass is to avoid having to fill your hot water tank with antifreeze after you drain it(they hold 6 gallons). Some MH have taps very low in the water system that you can open to help drain the lines. Good ideal to pour a little antifreeze in the drains and the toilet.

Wow they are some expensive! They seem like the real thing most of the cheap LED’s do not have enough light to be worth while how ever it would cost me some thing close to $350 to replace my lamps. Just about any good parts store should be able to supply you clearance lights I replaced mine because I got tired of fiddling with them all the time to get them to burn it was well worth the $100 to replace them all.

Your first question maybe related to the 3rd the furnace has to have a well charged battery to work it may not have been charged enough it should charge when you drive the MH just fine but if it was dead it may take a good bit of driving. Try plugging the camper in and see if the furnace works. As far as the fridge they take a long time to cool off unless you put your hand in the freezer section after an hour it probably will not feel cold I usually turn mine on at least the night before I go camping. If you leave it plugged in for several hours and it does not cool it may have a bad 120 volt heater (I know it sounds crazy but yes a heater)

It should have an electronic igniter no pilot light. They run for some time to purge any gas that may have been in the chamber before they even begin to try to light. There is a switch inside that senses air flow if it is not great enough the gas valve will not open and it will sit there and run until you turn the thermostat off. I would suggest that you plug it in to the house power and try it if the battery is not charged enough the fan may not turn fast enough to trip the switch.

Try a local bearing company they will need the old seals for dimensions but they should be able to help you out most bearing outfits do seals also.

That's OK, better be really nice for $7000.

Sounds like a Dolphin to me pretty much standard stuff typical seller though, ebay? highly doubtful you will ever see 18 MPG more like 13-14. 300K on the engine before a rebuild also a bit of wishful thinking figure on chains at about 150K. If you want to sleep 6 in it they had better be very good friends. Parking it will take 1 1/2 parking spaces no matter how you cut it, it's still 21' long but it sure beats trying to find a space for a 35' standard class "C" It has a 1 ton rear that is a good thing they are great little motor homes I don't know what your requirements are but they are small and kind of lack storage but if you are looking for a nice ride it's worth checking out. One thing you need to look at closely is water leaks look for stains pull the mattress out of the front and make sure it's not wet underneath. Have you been given a price? I did not see one.

Yeah that's the noise. I think the 4X4's having taller suspension are less likely to do it.

I'm going to guess what you are hearing is the steering stop rubbing the control arm. Usually they will do that when you go over a dip with the wheel turned hard right or left. It is not a problem and it won't hurt any thing just sounds like the wheel is going to fall off. The stops had a plastic cover on them when they were new but it's probably long gone. Have a look underneath at the lower control arm and you'll see a shiney spot dab a little grease on the shiney spot and see if it goes away it won't last but at least you will know.

It has a belt and it should be changed with that kind of mileage do the water pump too it's driven by the timing belt cheaper to do it with the belt then later.

Did you replace the fuel filter that lives under the intake manifold? You can find it by standing on your head with a flash light in your mouth. Well it's not quite that bad but not far from it. it's towards the back above the starter.

Parts stores seem to have problems with the pads I believe there were only two yours should have the bigger rotor if it's a stock Toyota 6 bolt hub. Count the number of bolts holding the rotor on to the hub and let them know.

Have you guy tried a Cummings diesel dealer for your Onan? I bought a 5,500 watt for a friend's big rv about 4 years ago for $2,870.00 brand new in the crate. Cummings owns Onan.

There is a little wood frame behind it so it kinda limits a replacement. I think everyone has tried at some point to find lens or replacement with no luck. I made an aluminum plate and mounted a waterproof lamp to it. I really saw no need for a handle..

Good reading glad I live in balmy south west Maine it only got to -32 (northern Maine -50) last year.

Yeah I wish I knew more about them no info from the outfit selling them, do not know what will or will not interchange how the spring mounts are or any thing other then they are for a Toyota. I don't think I will buy one just to check it out though. They are neat though disk brakes would be a great addition.

I’m a little skeptical about MAF sensor cleaners the MAFs are a bit fragile and really they are self cleaning. The late 90s pickups were in my opinion were geared way too high so it makes the truck seem sluggish I used to tow a popup camper with mine and it was as slow going up hills as my MH my 94 4X4 gearing was far better. Until I replaced the O2 sensor mine would throw engine codes off and on until it finally gave me a definitive O2 code I replaced the bank 1 sensor and it has not come on since.

I have an 87 New Horizon (Nova Star) and love it. When I bought mine it was a place for the owner of an apartment building to stay when he came up from Mass. to check out his apartment or do repairs and it was some dirty inside and out but it only had 28K on it. I had to replace everything that was plastic on the roof due to sunlight damage and over the 3 years I have owned it I have resealed everything on the top from the vents to the the A/C. Mine is all fiberglass and I would assume yours is too. The exterior was covered with black stains I went to the local boat shop and bought a cleaner for fiberglass boats that said it would remove even blood stains (I had to assume they meant fish blood). Well it did remove all the stains. They seem to be fairly rare you don't see many. I think they were expensive new. I would very much like a copy of your manual. I can't believe there is too much that changed between 87 and 88. I have had no problems other then normal wear and tear and as far as the truck they are all pretty much the same and they are mostly trouble free. You should have no real problems for the next 60,000 miles.

This is a pretty serious rear assembly. I did email them they said they have no ideal if it would work or not they said they just do land crusers http://www.man-a-fre.com/feature_items/fullfloater.htm that would be a pretty neat replacement and the price is right.

Nope it's in the exhaust pipe the one closest to the engine is bank 1 the other one is closest to the cat. Why do you think it needs a TPS? Usually a bad one makes them run pretty bad. With any engine management system parts are expencive if you just keep replacing them until you fix some thing if you can get a scanner hooked up it's an easy test to check the TPS they are mechanical no electronics so they either work right or they don't. MY old bomb has 240K and it's so dry it's rusty the oil comes out about as clean as it goes in, the 2.7 would make a nice Toy home engine!

Like I said some do some don’t guess this has been a argument since they started putting the automatics in the trucks. The biggest issue is converter slip that makes heat and if a vehicle is straining in a gear that is too high the converter has to slip. The O/D will shift out if you push it and the slip will diminish, to my knowledge there has never been any hard data about longevity with out O/D or with O/D usage and if there is I would like to read it. Any way I plan to get 100+k out of mine but I do take care of it, they work hard O/D or not so fluid changes are necessary not just pull the plug but a complete change converter and all or a flush if you will every 30K. A bigger cooler and synthetic trans fluid can’t hurt either. All this is just my opinion your mileage may vary. Knewell has a “90” and I think his has a lockup converter that really does help reduce converter slip because when it is engaged the converter becomes direct drive like a clutch in a stick shift. So there is no right or wrong if you believe your transmission will last longer with out O/D go for it, me I like the quiet and a little better mileage.

I doubt if your cat is plugged it would be absolutely gutless, soot is pretty normal.

There are 2 sensors bank 1 is an O2 sensor the other one is an air/fuel sensor (the sensor closest to the engine is bank 1)If there is a sensor in the air box it is an ambient temp sensor. Your picture is of a mass air flow sensor and the unplugged wire looks like a Toyota tape job it may go to some thing you don't have. If you are still having running problems the OBD2 port will allow you to check the sensors while the truck is running there are quite a number of parameters just about ever thing you can think of. If you check your bank 1 sensor it will read voltage, the voltage at idle should be very active ranging from .1 to .9 volts and any thing in between if it is not active the sensor should be replaced.