Maineah

They are standard plumbing fittings the only difference is the material for the flange seal do not use a standard wax toilet seal there are ones just for RV's they don't melt in hot weather!

Ok here is the deal with RV generators they exhaust out the bottom, both heat and engine exhaust putting a portable generator in a box is not a real good ideal. Good place to store it but run it on the ground out side.

Yeah the Kollers were not real quiet. The Onan's were a bit better. Had a friend with a large MH He bough a new generator because the Onan 5KW didn't run. I swapped it out for him and he gave me the old one, a bit of labor latter and a $4 part I had it running. I think that was the quietest generator I have ever heard bar none. Onan did a little magic the engine only ran at 1800 RPM not 3600 like the others. In order to make 60 CPS (like house wiring) most run 3600 the Onan 5000 had a 4 pole field instead of 2 so it only turned half the speed! The draw back it was some thing close to the size of a 22RE!

The only time the quiet generators really are is when they are not working hard. At max load they run just as fast as the cheap ones the difference is lighter loads the inverter ones slow the engine down.

It depend on what it is the little ones were ok and did not need a big axle, but if it is a small one the fake dual's it makes it worse because it increases the leverage on the axle bearings. So if it is a full size you have no other choice that a dual one ton setup to be on the safe side.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jetronic. Japan was on top of it the US still had their own and it was just shy of worthless they eventually went to ported injection. MB had the for runner of fuel injection based on their diesel system it was mechanical. I taught EFI back in the early days at a community collage. Go big time with a Kinsler system if you want performance.

Toyota was one of the first to use ported electronic injection they were way ahead of the game with a system that was on top of it, the basics are still used today on just about every thing. If it ain't broke don't fix it. The gain will not be worth the effort. You can turbo charge a brick but it will still be a brick. Seriously check out the numbers with RV none of the ones with an over head bunk get decent millage even with modern systems and more efficient engines. Don't forget the coefficient of drag increases with speed "I can't drive 55" remember that?

Well my older ones were constantly in the low 20's maybe 24 on the highway. Pretty much the same as my 2011 Tacoma 4L V6 4X4.(they were all 4X4's) When I tow my camper with the 2011 it is in the low teens.

It's not just Toyotas no RV gets good mileage. It more than any thing else is the frontal drag of the over hang many RV's suffer from this. Even ones with a good bit of power still only get maybe 14 mpg. Just look at the figure for say a Sprinter with no over head bunk it's pretty dramatic.

First gens did not have a factory sway bars and neither do the second and third gens. Yes after market but with a toy home it's not going to accomplish much. Better off with shocks with springs. It is grossly over weight even with duel wheels. Love it for what it is. Wish I still had mine probably could get 20 grand for it.

Looks kind of home made to me. Some had a flange on the end but the interior size still would be 2 or 1 1/4. What does the interior measure? Usually the tube is at least 12 gauge.

$10 says it won't fix it. My old New Horizon had no sway but it also had a 9 leaf spring pack.

Typically vehicles with rear leaf springs don't need them. Check for worn/missing parts loose spring U bolts.

They do make replacement cooling units other wise it looks to be in nice shape. Might be worth fixing.

Try it with out the fuse and see if it fits. If it does the fuse is too long. The caps (I assume you are talking about the twist lock top) are pretty much standard fuses are not.

Very light weight and not factory. Must go to lighting or a gadget.

I don't think you can with out removing the radiator but doing so gives you a lot of room to makes the job a little easier.

Toyota made their own 1 ton diffs they have tens of thousands duel wheel trucks running around Japan. Rangers never had a 1 ton diff. and the Ford one ton was 16" and had 8 lugs.

Yeah they work well moving don't for get to switch it when you park to propane got it an hour or two on propane before you leave then switch to DC I never had any issues on propane but the electricity is basically free while on the road

I had a friend with a large MH with a 5K Onan generator he asked me to install the new one he had because it didn't run. He gave me the old one and at a cost of under $5 and a bit of labor it once again was running. It was the quietest generator I have ever heard because it only turned at 1800 RPM instead of 3600. It now belongs to the armature radio club we use it for events that run all night because it's so quiet. So yes your new generator will charge the battery but if you are going to all that trouble then it would be advisable to replace the old converter charger. They were low current chargers longer recharge time more noise and gasoline. I have to ask, a 3,000 watt generator is going to weigh around 100LBS where are you going to put this thing? Because of the way a MH generator is designed it forces hot air and exhaust out the bottom of the MH a portable one does not so it kind of rules out putting it in the original compartment.

Me I would fix the Onan!

Yeah they are out there but they are some pricy! They are generally pretty small too just a bit bigger than half the size of a 20# tank. Propane boils at something close to - 40 there is free space in the tank for propane gas, the stand up ones the space is at the top the horizontal ones the space is on it's side and the discharge is above the level of the liquid propane.

If so his stove etc should work if it does he is smiling. There is a fill adaptor that at this point seems to be a relic. Propane is pumped from the bottom of the large fill tank as a liquid. If I remember the adapter was the clue to the fill procedure. By all means have a propane outfit look at it if they are familiar with older campers.

What concerns me is the open fitting on the fill side I have no ideal what that's all about. My guess it had some thing to do with a 20# cylinder either they were using it to fill the small tank or using a BBQ tank to run the camper hence the bull nose fitting on the copper line. The fill will be liquid propane at that point, the expansion of liquid propane to a gas is huge, 270 times it's volume once the pressure is removed it can make a cloud of propane in an heart beat.

Not sure what you have going on there the bull nose fits a propane tank like a BBQ the yellow cap covers a fill adapter for the saddle tank, campground usually have one if they do propane. There is a fitting on the fill side missing some thing they may have made some thing up to fill a BBQ tank either way take it to a reputable propane station.