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Two things the trans uses a cable not a throttle rod and it's not in the way. The trans cooler lines have no "coolant" in them just ATF. It has been a long time since I have done one but I don't remember them being a major job. The starters had a contact disk in them and with age were problematic so it was pretty common job to have to remove the starter to deal with the contacts pretty sure I just pushed the lines out of the way.

It can be done in the back yard but you will need things like a bushing driver. You could remove the extension housing an take it to a transmission shop and let them replace the bushing. If there is any ware on the yoke replace it. They are actually very good transmissions but they did have some quirky problems one of them was the way the output shaft was supported by the yoke and the bushing I can't stress how important that could be to your bank account if it's ignored.

If you have a lot of play in the yoke don't put it off they are available. Replace the bushing in the tail stock. The bushing and yoke are also the support for the output shaft inside the transmission. When they fail the governor sealing rings dig into the transmission case read transmission overhaul.

Find the horn and see what the wire color is connected to it.

Yes that would work just as well mine is fan forced electric heat.

Well age does play a part in may respects! Glad you got it going. My camper has two heating systems the propane one is controlled by a computer T stat so if I'm out exploring it comes on before I return to a nice warm camper. The second is a line voltage home made system made from a bath room over head heater that's used when I'm plug in paying for power any way. By the way the 120 volt T stat is the same concept it's just a switch but it carries the heavy load of a electric heater.

Not really motor homes/campers are in high demand my camper has gone up in value over 2 grand since spring, the dealers are having a hard time getting new/used ones. Have a friend that got over 9K for a high millage 87 Toy home.

There is not much difference check it cold and adjust according.

To do it properly it will be a task it's a lot easier with no roof!

I'll add this in the gasket kit there is a straight gasket that part that is often forgotten it fits under the back of the AC unit to support the back of the AC on the roof. Over the years all of the gasket parts will be as flat as a pan cake try not to get carried away with the torque snug is fine have a look again after a few road trips and tighten as necessary.

Yep fine, often used in multiple daily start applications. Be ready to get your check book out though.

If you can find the temp sensor on the engine, ground the wire lead to some thing the temp gauge should than read full hot.

Yes being a soft metal they actually stretch with age and vibration reducing their current capacity. So for instance a fuse that should carry 20 amps may be reduced to 15 or less resulting in a false positive.

Or the majority of drivers!

If it does any thing blows air what ever the "T" stat is working demanding heat. It should go thru a "pre purge" then ignite with a "clunk" when the gas valve opens plugged in or not. If you have doubts just twist the wires together and see what happens it should go through the song an dance and light that basically is all the T stat does just completes the circuit it is a super simple gadget. It only sets the rest of the furnace. stuff in motion. Propane has a lot of "what if" safety procedures but again the T stat only puts all that in motion.

The RV market right now out of sight dealers are having a hard time even getting new ones. I'm told I could get 8-10 thousand for a 1990 tow behind camper I paid $1200 for. Yeah I put some money in it but not that much!

Wow some serious roof rot! Worst part it will still bring the money!

Little practical value.

All I can say is crazy money! 10 to 15 grand or more.

What ever you use for a fly wheel will be lighter than the old converter! If you have a choice I would go lighter but it's kind of doubtful you would ever notice a difference one way or another with the MH.

OK, how did you get it started and what was the clutch attached too?

Most are no more that a switch they have no voltage dependent parts other than the switch and generally low voltage. I have an off the shelf computer thermostat that uses AA batteries running my furnace in the camper but because most are no more than a switch operating mechanically pretty much any will work.

As the engine warms the clearance diminishes if any thing a .001 loose is better overall. How warm or cold is the engine in reality? People have a tendency to adjust valves a shade tight with a bit more drag on the feeler gauge than necessary any way, you shouldn't have to yank it out. Toyota says 60K miles, normal operating temp at .008 intake and .012 exhaust I kind of think they know their engines. My 4L Tacoma is a shim valve engine it's not particularly quiet often referred to as the Taco "tick". I would rather hear a little tick than a quiet tight valve. These are not performance engines but they are good ones.

Yes.

I an going to elaborate here on compression check of a shimmed valve engine. The clearance is part of the valve timing, if the valve clearance is too tight the valve will open too early. Too great a clearance it will open too late (much less likely). This has an effect on the compression of an engine and it's over all efficiency. A valve adjustment on the V6 is time consuming and expensive this is why I suggest a compression check it will tell you a story. The concept is nothing new shimmed valve engines have been around for decades Jag had them in the late 40's they were even more fun because you had to take the cams out because the shim was under the bucket and about the diameter of a dime they never had any issues with tight valves but any head worked required an adjustment. I had dirty finger nails for 38 years before I finally got a clean job been there done that.