Maineah

This maybe? Pricy but. etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Bargman/47-84-103.html

Haven't seen it done in decades but what we used to do to clean an old rusty tanks was to suspend it from the over head with bungy cords pour in some BB's or even clean gravel than shake it back and forth till you get tired, dump out the stuff quick wash and let it dry! Great deal of tanks now are plastic.

It's on the edge, yeah 2000 it will run it but not much more. Usually the AC circuit is on a 20 amp breaker. So the RV should have a 30 main, 20 AC and 15 amp for outlets. So if you have just a 15 amp and no 20 it will most likely trip.

The oil pump is right behind it so while you are there replace the oil pump seal where it fits to the timing case.

There are two filaments in the bulbs stop/signal and parking there is only one ground for both so it is unlikely that both would be an issue so this points directly to a poor ground.

It will come out the bottom.

I just read several articles from various camper sites about the Maxxair 10 speed frankly I would stay away from it!

The red wire needs to be connected for battery sense voltage. A GM one wire can work but you are going to loose some functions and the mounting can become an issue. The Denso alt's a pretty good units.

It is possible, you have 2 batteries on line with the key on. I have seen that before a broken B+ wire. Day time travel you might get away with it. The red wire has to be connected to charge the battery no exceptions, the other small wires are charge regulators and dash light.

Another thought a pip squeak solar panel may not even be able to run the fan direct!

Yes that is my point it is far easier/cheaper to direct connect to the battery with a solar regulator it also will allow you to run the fan when the "sun don't shine" with the added effect of charging the battery, both of the device are about the same price. An other comment don't buy a fan that can stand 13.8 volts common charged battery voltage.

An unregulated solar panel is capable of like 21 volts but that is a direct connected to a device. In any case it will need to be regulated that is common practice. It is meant to be a battery charging device not a DC powering device. So connecting it directly to a fan is asking for it. I run a solar panel the controller is at the panel it is portable. A permanent setup would have the controller at the battery to take advantage of cable length voltage loss so it would be highly unlikely to over voltage any fan, lights etc.

Yeah the external antennas do work and come with a USB connection but do not expect miracles they are not real strong signals. If you are near a hot spot they work OK.

Don't swat the details enjoy the ride worry less it won't bother a thing, The battery load alone will cover it. I have a maxair and run solar but it's only been 7 years now.

Yes open the propane valve it may take awhile for any thing to happen because the propane lines are probably full of air.

I have rebuilt several for these dang things if the panels are OK you're fine it does require some wood working tools and skills I buy pressure treated and rip them to size dado all the joints and use stainless screws. They leak and the soft wood does rot.

That works looks good!

Typically the screws are Robertson, it looks like a Philips but it's not. The two common types are a " number" one or two most hard ware stores will have them the tip is square they are extensively used in cabinet work.

Work on it in home depot's parking lot that will save you lots of drive time!

Lot of science involved with generators and start current. Many are capable of generating a good bit more starting watts than running watts. One plus with an AC is it's start cap that helps the generator and the fact the generator is all ready running at 3600 RPM.

Like your Kohler the old AC is old school. Things have improved a lot! The big plus with a start cap is over coming the compressor head pressure on a restart that is the highest current demand the rest of the stuff blower fan is not so much. The AC start cap is part of the overall design of the AC And being a mobile unit I would think they would take that into consideration. I agree with a 2500 watt generator it is still small enough to be portable once you pass that line they take a big jump in weight and size.

Goose neck lowboy would be what you need.

Times have changed your new one will be a lot more efficient I would not worry about "start caps". They all are designed to fit a 14X14 vent. You'll need a friend because it will not fit through to hole But with at least two people it's not a bad job. The stuff that holds it down is all inside you'll have to remove the plastic stuff and disconnect the wires then kind of pass it to your "friend" on the outside. The gasket will be junk if it isn't with the new AC unit be sure to order one ahead of time. In the gasket kit there is a long piece of gasket and a 14X14 gasket for the hole the long piece fits under the back of the AC unit.

From a burn one yes. You also have to deal with the burnt studs.

The 22RE starter was the same as numerous other applications. They were really good starters the only thing I ever found wrong with them was the solenoid contact disk it's behind the metal plate with the Philips screws. If it just clicks and nothing happens that's probably all that's wrong with it.