snail powered

The gas line from the tank screws into a fitting on the fridge. You will need to go to a hardware store and buy a brass gas line threaded cap that matches the thread type and diameter and use that to cap off the end of the line. Or you might be able to get one from your local RV repair shop. Of course you should do the soapy water check for leaks after you put the cap over the end. Its a pretty easy job, hardest part is finding the right size cap.

All the incoming money from taxes would could never begin to cover salaries for real people to deal with emails from people complaining about government policies

I would say it has a lot to do with how the ventilation is handled as to how suitable it will be. Sure size matters but so does how the heat is handled as well as the exhaust fumes. Probably best to stick to something designed for the purpose rather than purpose modified as this is a critical safety item both for fire and health. Cost savings is not the highest criteria at all times because sometimes the savings don't pencil out when other factors are involved. In this case there is also your labor and materials to be factored in.

1998 Provan Tiger in Seattle...low miles! Super clean looking, should go fast despite the 14K price. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/rvs/5152559172.html

My crew showed up this evening. Don was going to work on installing the driver's seat but forgot his tools weren't in his van. However he had my coach flooring material in there and I had just made the pattern out of cardboard to use for cutting it an hour earlier. So flooring is what we did instead of seat installation. I needed the floor installed before I can start working on the lower cabinet face frames. There is an overlook deck by the sidewalk across from the storage yard where I have my rig so it worked for a good spot to lay out the grey micro dot material. The microdots are only 1/8" diameter so you can't see them in the photos above, non skid but not gritty and easy to clean. Its very durable, foam cushioned and because it is what they put in the galleys of Boeing Jets it is also reduces noise and is flame retardant too. Installation is easy, it only needs some double back carpet tape around the perimeter edges. Grey would not necessarily be my first color choice but it is a good match for my cab interior which is grey and black and it was free to me . I can always add throw rugs on top to liven the place up. Really expensive material, I could not have afforded to buy it off the shelf. Don had bought a good sized roll of it from Boeing Surplus a number of years ago. There was enough for my Sunrader and also for his cargo trailer conversion to a mobile camper/toy hauler/mobile workshop project. He is going to be putting in glass doors behind the drop down door ramp. Good for hauling his dual sport Honda Trans Alp motorcycle in.

This is the phone number for the Atwood Service Department. 866-869-311 They will be able to give you information about the installation and use of specific models.

A paint job and fresh fabrics certainly brighten up interiors

I don't know about front hitches but it is not unusual to put a hitch extension on for bike racks so that they will clear spare tire carriers. Here is an example of types available for that including an adjustable one. http://www.hitchrider.com/hitch-bars.htm

If you can find a copy of the user's manual for your year and model of truck it will should give you the numbers you need to know for type of fluids and for the pressures.

My cab area is starting to look like a black hole now that the dash is black, the new seats are black and the new vinyl floor is black. I will adding some grey slip covers over the seats and some grey floor mats as well as grey headliner which will help take away that black hole look. It actually looks very nice in all black but I prefer the lighter color as it makes the space feel roomier when looking into it from the back of the coach. The new seats from the Mercedes Kompressor are so comfortable. They were supposed to be able to bolt right in having been drilled to fit a Nissan 720 but it was done for a later model than mine. My friend Don is making adapter plates for bolting in the seats and I am glad to have his help instead of doing all that bending myself. I started installing some closed cell foam with a tough vinyl face on the inside of the exterior walls in my lower cabinets and cargo space. It is very close to the same cream color as the Sunrader fiberglass. It will cushions the walls, dampen the sound and also provide some extra insulation but its very light in weight and the surface is washable. A very easy upgrade project, cut to size and adhere it to the walls with some double stick 3M carpet tape. The material was free, I just had to buy the tape.

now that's something I have not seen before

I can't put a hitch on top of my bumper due to interference with the propane compartment lid. Such is life ....sigh

I am creating a mounting box for my Honda 1000i Gen set that sits right on top of my bumper. I don't want to put a hitch on underneath of my rear bumper as the ground clearance is already low enough that it will hit on a steep grade. During my interior renovation I reinforced the back wall of my Sunrader by adding a plywood plate on the insides while I had the interior wall removed. I used Okume marine plywood that is strong enough to hold screw threads or I can bolt through it if needed. I used the same thickness of plywood as the cavity behind my wall panel which in the Sunrader was 5/8" on that area of the wall. But I used no void, very strong Okume plywood for the job, not weak construction plywood that has soft cores. Next chore is to mount a couple of cross wise tiedown rails to the rear wall that accept slide in fasteners. That will allow me to securely mount other items such as a cargo box, bike rack, chairs, table, etc. I have seen this aluminum mounting rail system track on the back wall in photos of some of the European RVs. I like its versatility. Some of the roof rack cross bar tie down systems are similar to the European C track versions. Since it is a project for the future I have not purchased the railing yet so can't quote a source for it. Just one of those projects where I know I will be doing it so I prepared for it while I had the interior wall paneling removed.

Since you have a framed RV you have more options for adding extra reinforcement to the roof by spanning over to the framing adjacent to the roof opening. A couple of pieces of stout aluminum I beam or L angle up top might do the trick. Share the load by distributing the load.

Shiny aluminum is good at reflecting the radiant heat but I have not seen any photos of a Toy home with a polished aluminum roof. Could be there are some out there though. I have a white fiberglass roof with a decent amount of urethane foam under it. I don't need to do any remedial work on it other than washing and waxing now and again. The glass is the big culprit left for radiant heat transmission. Nice to have on a sunny winter day but not great on a hot summer day. In the summers when parked I have been shading the glass on the exterior with reflectix. This winter I will sew up some special washable shades that have a layer of mylar inside of coated nylon fabric. They will velcro or snap in place to the outside but be easy to store flat under the mattress when not in use. They can also be used on the interiors of the windows in the wintertime to help retain heat if needed. There are some interesting snaps that can be adhered to the outside fiberglass shell of the RV with VHB tape from 3M. VHB stands for very high bond. They are using these snaps on fiberglass boats for installing various Sunbrella type of protective covers. A little pricey per but at least you don't have to put a hole through the fiberglass thereby creating a potential leak. http://www.sailrite.com/easearch#!&ea_q=snad

I have a Nissan Sunrader. It is 1980 18', 4 cylinders with 87K miles on it. I am in the process of putting an all new interior in it.

This one is the right size, 6 inches = 150 mm, and has a silicone gasket to keep vibration noise down. Plus it has good quality bearings. http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Cooling-NF-A15-PWM/dp/B00AED7XFI

They make apps for auto paint color matching for Androids https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.akzonobel.imatchcolor&hl=en for Iphones https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/imatchcolor/id384354108?mt=8

Maybe this style? http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Ventline/BVD0278-00.html

Having looked at the price points of various units and factoring in things such as low energy starting ability, overall energy savings, a very reasonable amount amps and watts used the Fridgedaire window units are looking very favorable for their newer models. Here is one with a remote control for quite a decent price. You could probably get it for a lower cost than this MFR site is selling it for. I have even see a few of the smaller sized ones showing up on my local craigslist now and again. But of course this being prime air conditioning season they do get snapped up quickly. I plan on keeping my eyes open for one this fall and winter to see if I can get a real bargain on a 5,000 btu Fridgedaire portable. I will be wishing I had one sooner but its not in the budget before then. http://www.frigidaire.com/Air-Conditioning-Dehumidifiers/Air-Conditioners/FFRA0822R1/

If you want to make a spacer to raise the height of the AC get some HDPE marine board. It comes in a variety of thickness and is made to use outdoors in salt water environments. While it is not lightweight however you will be cutting out the middle of it and leaving just a ring so that will take away most of the weight of the sheet. It is fairly easy to machine you can drill it and you can cut it with saws and routers. https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=1573&step=2&top_cat=181 Wood will be prone to cracking, rotting etc but HDPE is not.

It is fairly common on boats to have a switch for selecting different batteries, combinations of batteries or a position for all shut off. Or if you only have one house battery there is a shut off switch for that. Blue Sea is a good company and they supply good equipment. http://shop.pkys.com/Standard-Battery-Switches_c_50.html

My cab flooring insulation is about done now. It is working out nicely. Having the foil on both sides of the 1/4" polyolefin foam makes it very easy to conform the material to the curvature of the floor and firewall. I made it in a few sections, one over the center hump, one piece each for under the passenger and drive feet and on up the firewall. Two more sections for behind the seats. Foil tape makes it easy to join the pieces together without gaps. I still have space under the new vinyl floor mat to add another layer of insulation and I will do that under the area of the floor in front of the seats. I do have extra material left so I might as well use it. Cost to do the floor was just under $40.00. The foam is $10.00 a yard @ 60" wide from an auto upholstery supply source. Way less money that purchasing the same type of materials from the car audio store sources. You can also get this product already made up with foil on both sides of the foam from stores that supply insulation to house contractors. But those rolls use thinner foam, 1/8" thick. But it would work well behind the door panels. More layers of foil between foam also means better sound control according to my friend who is a product designer. But for my project I was just using materials I already had on hand which meant no extra cash outlay except for a couple of rolls of aluminum foil tape.

The Shurflo 2088 series has a 45 psi rating

My friend put a set of the color changing strip LED lights on his boat. The control unit interferes with the radio sound by creating lots of noise. Its not the LEDs themselves that are making the racket.