fred heath

^ what she said ^

The only thing on paper is your responsibilities. Which you both agree to prior to accepting the job. Everything else is personal records and no money changes hands. In essence its the barter system. Technically it's taxable by IRS standards, but only if someone is stupid enough to tell them. Same for the state. Agreed responsibilities will save you from that 8pm knock on the door asking for your help with something not agreed to.

I've had friends that have entered into situations such as this. It can work out fine as long as your responsibilities are put on paper. A general help around the place can end up making you an indentured servant. Personally, I would agree on a fixed monthly rent to be reduced by the # of hours worked x agreed on hourly compensation. Extra hours would be carried forward to the next month. This way both parties are clear on what's expected.

Local shop is the way to go. I had my pipe ID upgraded to 2". As far as a cat goes, check your underhood label an see if it states "Non-catalyst equipped". My 1978 came factory without a cat. Total cost for my exhaust with muffler and custom pipe $200.00

These things seem to gum up from age. I had a similar problem. I ended up disassembling the entire unit, cleaned it up with WD 40 and lubricated all sliding parts with white lithium grease. It has worked fine ever since.

I found this by chance but works well for me. When I first relocated to NC I checked out some local RV parks. All were $350-400 per month. So I posted an ad on CL seeking secure parking for my mh that I could stay in while parked. I got a msg. from a local storage company. This turned out to be a gated and password protected facility with security cameras. There is no dump station and electric plug is only 20 amp, but cost is only $100.00 per month. All included. I know this is not for everyone, but if you need a short term parking solution this could work. It doesn't hurt to ask.

Preston makes a cleaning agent to be used with its Flush & Fill kit. I've used this on several vehicles and found it quite effective. Your local WalMart has it.

Once flushed as waiter said, set heater and blower to high. Pour about 1 gal into cold radiator. (or until it reaches the top). Start the engine and watch the fluid level in the radiator, it should go down.keep adding fluid until its near the top. Wait for your thermostat to open and the fluid level will drop again. Continue to add fluid. At this point you should be able to look inside the radiator and see the fluid moving. Replace the radiator cap and fill overflow bottle to cold mark. If everything is working good you should be able to top off the bottle if needed.

Your new thermostat should have a small vent hole on the top. Usually it has small metal pin which moves up and down in the hole. Check this in the event some of your engine sludge got in there and blocked it. Don't ask why but some mfg delete this feature. Other thought is you may have a defective thermostat, even though it new.

Sorry Linda, I guess we were talking about apples and oranges. I interpreted the post as looking for the gasket between the cab roof and the overhead. My gasket suggestion would replace your garden hose. As far as back of cab to body on my mh its filled with epoxy and painted.

Pretty sure it's a scam. Sounds like some other ones I've seen.

I used black. Guess I'll have to settle for being a non purist. In addition, the gasket around my over cab window,windshield, and aluminum wrap around trim are all black. The black seal blends in well.

I don't think the 1/4" would give enough clearance. Next time your in a big chain store check out the "Cobra Vent" in the roofing aisle. I've never used it for a bed but it's strong, lightweight and pretty reasonable.

Donnie, I don't recall the ad mentioning a specific truck. Its 1/2 round shape with a flange on one side with an adhesive strip applied. It will safely fill in a gap of 3/4 to 1 inch. The natural rubber makes for a good seal. The closest thing I can compare it to is the replacement seals they sell for house entrance doors, only much larger. All the garage door seals I've ever used are quite large. I'm not sure how they could work on a mh. If your using eBay click to the product description. It should give you exact measurements.

In most cases the moisture goes through the mattress from perspiration or condensation. If you determine the moisture is not from a leak I've seen people place fiberglass corrugated roof panels under their mattress. It allows it to breath, can be cut to size and provides a firm base. It can easily be removed for maintenance. There is also a roofing product called "Cobra Vent". It comes in a roll that can be cut to size. This would work if height is an issue.

Linda has the right idea. Check local kitchen remodelers or even try CL under building materials. I cry when I think how many thousands of dollars in corian I carried to the dump.

Linda, What I love about corian is if you scratch it or ding it, you can sand out the mistakes. Granit is now favored but corian is just as good. It's a very "user friendly" material.

Karin, In the real world you need to have the knowledge and the correct tools to undertake such a project. A decent laminate trim bit can be over $20.00. Add in all the other material costs along with your labor,and often times it's cheaper to buy something premade that you can modify to fit. It's such a small area. I've built and installed custom kitchens and bathrooms for over 20 years. The videos always make the job look simple.

Linda, Depending on the age of the screens the pressure springs may be frozen. The other thing to check for would be slots in the top Chanel. Maybe they have to be aligned just right to allow the screen to release. I'm sure there's a way to do it. Worst case, you could experiment on one of your lesser used vehicles.

As far as the camper body goes you could try looking in different areas inside to see if you can find the mfg. name. There were many companies that jumped on the mh bandwagon in the 70's. Could be yours was made by one of them.

Linda, Is the screen frame plastic or aluminum? Usually they have elliptical spring clips on the top of the frame. After centering the screen in the opening try lifting up the bottom of the screen. It should push high enough into the upper Chanel to swing out the bottom and remove it. Installation is the reverse. I find it hard to believe the mfg. made no provisions other than complete window removal.

My 1979-78 had only the underhood vehicle ID tag and the mfg. ID label. Motor vehicle dept. goes with the mfg. assigned label. You must remember Toyota sold cab and chassis to many different buyers including U-haul. Your RN28 # makes you truck a 1978. This is all you would need at a parts place. It is known as a "standard cab".

When I replaced mine I found that the natural rubber seal they make to go around the tailgate in a full size pickup works great. I found it on eBay and was about $35.00. Can't remember who the supplier was. One side has an adhesive strip which will lock it into position.

Sorry about the double post. My phone is doing some weird things now.