fred heath

Do you have duel rear wheels?. If yes, do they have 5 lug nuts or 6 lug nuts on the rear axle? If only 5 lug nuts, the axle is unsafe. This should be your first concern before any suspension work being done. If 6 lug nuts you’re good. Most shops that service trucks can accommodate your toy home on their lifts.

Body parts are standard Toyota. Same for the engine. Any salvage yard should be able to locate a bumper with turn signals. Just plug in your VIN when searching. Coach body parts will be difficult to find.

Thunderer is my choice. On my second set now. First set was changed at 40K. Still had some life left but didn’t want to take any chances. Ride and wear quality is excellent.

It’s now $23K.

Really $$$$$ but might be a plug-n-play. TWO BARGMAN UPGRADE ALL LED Camper, RV, Trailer Tail Light RECESS MOUNT https://a.co/d/gc0SloF I use these on my rig. Very bright but might not fit your rough opening. These are surface mount. Auovo 75 LED Truck Tail Lights DC12V Amber Red White Turn Signal Running Brake Reverse Trailer Taillight Bar Waterproof Lamps Fits Truck RV Camper Snowmobile Pickup Vans (2 PCS) https://a.co/d/8zVfYMM

Now I could like driving this thing….

That’s what I was thinking. Back then I guess it wasn’t such a big deal. Today, you want to cry.

Poor old Cadillac….

You actually have 2 hoses. The fuel fill hose (2” ID) and a (7/16” ID) vent hose. These measurements are normal for your year truck. Definitely remove the old hoses first to double-check before buying new. Fuel fill hose is specifically designed for this application. It’s very expensive to buy but the only thing to use. It’s sold by the running foot and only comes in straight lengths. It can be challenging to install. Making bends (even slight) can be difficult. If you’re mechanically inclined and have sufficient tools you can try to do it on your own. A garage with a lift would be my recommendation.

Try a heat gun or hairdryer. You might be able to soften up the adhesive enough to scrap the old plywood off.

There are many older Toyota’s in Mexico. Maybe see if someone there might have the part you need.

Very lucky. Glad you’re okay.

Sounds like your rebuild is going well. Check your steel brake lines. If replacing all the flex lines, might as well make it 100% and replace those at the same time. I went with all stainless steel. Pricey, but never have to do them again.

Many times the catalytic converters have a sheet metal heat shield around them. The metal holding tabs rust out causing the heat shield to drop on top of the converter creating a rattling sound. Check the area around the converter for any loose metal pieces.

So far you’ve done fine. Too many cooks can spoil a recipe. I’m removing myself from this thread. Feel free to pm me if you want. Fred

Just a suggestion. With everything brand new you might want to consider DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. It’s pricey, but resists moisture absorption and is very durable. This is the same fluid the military uses in its vehicles. I’ve always used it and have had great luck. If you go this route be sure to place a a warning near the master cylinder stating you have DOT 5 installed. If any other fluid is added it will destroy the DOT 5.

My apologies. I saw your before picture and thought it was your finished product. The before picture was really scary. Your setup looks similar to mine.

Screenshot from FB. Unable to post link.

The bolts will fill the holes just fine. Keep doing what you’re doing.

Well you obviously have limited knowledge of frame and suspension components. I normally don’t criticize other members posts. I don’t know the extent of your mechanical background but I will say your shackle extension as shown in your photo is an accident waiting to happen. You don’t need to take my word. Show that picture (your shackle setup) to any mechanic that works on drivetrains. You’ve effectively transferred all linear and compression forces onto a single shackle eye bolt. Shackles need to be as close to the spring eye as possible to work as intended. Extended shackles should have a mid position reinforcement to avoid unnecessary flexing. Using a bunch of stacked washers is not a good thing.

He’ll do fine. He managed to change his entire axle assembly with no prior drivetrain experience. It would take extreme effort to damage the frame rails. Even a slight nick will not affect its structural strength. Grinder with a cut off wheel is the way to go.