fred heath

Why do you want to raise the front?

I fabricated rear shackles for my 1979. Best bang for the buck. Rock auto has good deals for the bushings.

I agree with Montana.

Hi Chris, Thanks for the fb link. I joined but then removed my profile. The site is run by a guy in Idaho. There seems to be little or no organization with the members. What concerned me the most was a picture of him pointing an automatic handgun at the camera. I'm not comfortable with his profile. This is just my observation. The fact that he can enter my profile and see my personal information and friends list is also a concern. I'm sure he's fine. I learned to trust my instincts a long time ago, and something is telling me to stay away.

Check the clearance for your headlights and turn signal lights. If they're obstructed you will have problems. More important, if the radiator can't get enough air for cooling you could have serious overheating issues.

I think if you read the banner over the ad you'll see its left hand drive.

I agree. I stated the same opinion earlier in this thread. If he can get 13-14 he'll be doing very well.

Just to set the record straight my mileage claims are completely accurate. 1. I have no intention of ever selling my mh. 2. My vehicle is 16' in length, 6'10" in height (less wind drag), carbureted, desmogged, no cat, and weighs 4200 lbs. I kept a very accurate road log on my recent 1800 mile road trip. My rig averaged between 22-24 mpg for the entire trip. 16-18 mpg in town. I realize larger mh's will get less mileage,but I'm tired of hearing how 20mpg is dreaming. My vehicle is also a daily driver. I tweek the fuel/air for maximum mpg. One advantage to the older homes is you have no computer dictating your engine performance.

A little historical data. In 1973 the U.S. speed limit was set at 55mph. This lasted until 1987. Toyota, designed its engine and drivetrain to achieve maximum power and economy at this speed. Taking an older toy above this limit will have a negative impact on mileage. If you stay 55 and under, you will see the best bang for your buck!

You can do anything if your pockets are deep enough. The best way to spend your $800.00 is to get your rig in the best possible mechanical shape you can. Forget 20mpg. That is not going to happen. 12000 miles at 10mpg x$3.75 gl for gas will cost you $4500.00 12000 miles at 15mpg x $3.75 for gas will cost $3000.00. For a difference of $1500.00 I'd spend the money getting your existing rig to that 15mpg. number.

Looks like a great deal for $600.00

I'm 6' and my head clears the roof by about an inch. Not only does the floor drop but there's also a recessed area between the roof ribs to allow extra room. It appears to be a well thought out product.

Thought this would be a good link for those of us with older model toys. http://www.popsci.com/archive-viewer?id=fgEAAAAAMBAJ&pg=98&query=galavan

I hate reading ads with 20+ mpg claims. It gives people unrealistic expectations when they buy. I would like to see some REAL records that prove that they are getting that kind of mpg. I track every gallon of gas that I put in my MH so my numbers are accurate Many of the smaller lightweight motor homes get this type of mileage. My 1978 16' with 20R motor averaged between 22-24 documented mpg on a 3600 mile road trip. Around town 16-18 mpg. A good tune-up, proper inflation on tires, and my favorite "synthetic" lube in the drivetrain. There will be several naysayers respond to the synthetic comment, but this I'm convinced added to my mpg. I found 55mph is the best speed for good mileage.

Are you sure its not the control board? Gas valves don't usually go bad.

This is a good link to read. Should answer all your questions. http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761

Any commercial grade adhesive should work. Be sure to get one that's rated for indoor/outdoor carpet. It has better moisture resistance. All the big chain stores carry it.

http://www.powertrainproducts.net/ Found this company to be best deal on rebuilt engines. Nice thing is they waive the core charge if old engine is returned within 30 days.

I agree with John. It sounds like a ground issue. See if you have a coach body ground in the area by your water pump. I say this because perhaps the vibration of the pump running makes the bad contact function. This is just a "hip shot". Coach ground locations vary by mfg. They are usually near major electric appliances.

Check the condition of the wire jacket where it passes into the hood. Somewhere you got your 12v hot going to ground. As 12v is considered (low voltage) electricians tape should work fine to cover a bare area on the wire. The fact it was working fine before removal gives you a good starting point.

Derek's our "answer man".

It sounds like you should go back to basics. Identify your coach battery supply wire, your truck battery supply wire, alternator wire, and (ignition on) supply. Probably the wiper 12v wire. Remove everything else.Install your new isolater and attach wires as per instructions. It sounds like multiple novices have been working on your electric.

Stamar, I did give a personal opinion. I prefer the older homes for the reasons stated. Unless some member has owned every year and model mh manufactured, its going to be personal opinion. You favor 1985. Someone who's owned one that's given them nothing but problems will probably disagree. You've been doing so well on this forum lately. Don't regress to the old ways.

I think a lot of the decision making is done by the buyer. As Karen stated, maybe a rear bath is important. For someone else, an automatic transmission. This is why we have more than one manufacturer. In my case, I opted for an older model home. My reasoning being the mechanicals are more straight forward and easy to diagnose and repair. Newer models have all the sensors and computer operated systems. My toy has the 20R engine, carbureted, with no computer or factory cat. All the systems are easy to work on. Transmission is a 4 speed. I gutted the coach and rebuilt the inside to accommodate my particular needs. I'm fortunate that I have the ability do do this. Someone with no mechanical abilities may want to go with a later model low mileage home. Bottom line, the buyer makes the choice. As far as the best year goes, that again would be a personal opinion.

A solenoid isolater should work fine. They're pretty straight forward. Basically your two large posts go to truck and coach battery respectively. Center post connects to your alternator output. There may be a smaller post to use for ground. Make sure you get one rated for the amps your alternator is putting out.