fred heath

Harbor Freight has a good selection of bottle jacks all reasonably priced. There are basically two design heights, standard and low profile. Low profile is the way to go. I’m not sure what tonnage the low profile jacks start with, I believe it’s 12 ton. I carry a 20 ton low profile but I use it for other things than just lifting. The jack manufacturers will give low to high travel measurements. Climb under your rig with a tape measure and find potential jack points. Measure distance to the ground. This will tell you what size jack will fit.

Any wheel 5 lug x 4.5 will work. Only caution is be sure the center hole is big enough to allow the wheel to sit flush to the hub. Aftermarket white wagon wheels in 15” work very well and are reasonably priced. I run thunderer 195/70R-15 tires. Plenty strong and well made.

I run Mobil 1 20/50 weight in my 1979 20R. Have used it for the past 11 years and love it. I usually do an 1800 mile trip each year. 900 miles each way stopping only for fuel and power naps. Engine doesn’t miss a beat or overheat. I have nothing against Dino oil but found my rig runs much better with synthetic oil. I also run Mobil 1 in my transmission and rear axle. FWIW Fred.

Found my FSM while cleaning the storeroom. Manifold attachment is highlighted.

1968 Tucker ‘sno-cat’ in for a rebuild.

Hi April, A quick question. What year is the motorhome? Some pre 1986 models had bad rear axles. I would hate to see you go through import hassle only to have an unsafe vehicle. This is not something that Canada Customs would be aware of. Fred

The head gasket replacement procedure is covered in the FSM. Intake and exhaust manifolds stay attached.

If you have an extra $290K you can always upgrade to this 😮 A friend of mine just bought this today. $290K was ‘list’ , not sure what he paid for it and I didn’t ask. I did offer to trade, he just laughed. Funny thing is it only comfortably sleeps 2 on a queen size mattress.

Rebuilt 3.0 / 3vze. Not sure if this is a good price or not. Just an FYI if anyone is interested. Tried to delete this post because the link isn’t working. Maybe Linda can help.

I’ve always used my first and last name on forums such as this. My only social media account is FB and I use my real name there. My photo though is generic. Autonomy is necessary sometimes in today’s society. I’m old enough that I don’t care if someone wants to data mine my name. It’s a common enough name, have fun. 🙂

Welcome….. Need more engine information. 4 cylinder or 6 ? Snap a picture of your engine and post it here if you’re not sure. Could be many different things. Fuel filter is the first thing that pops into my mind.

Small hand held mirror might do the trick.

Just curious, did you pop the rear hubcap and check the axle? 6 lug nuts is good, 5 lug nuts very bad. Hope you have 6.

Check the coach battery ground cable. Terminal should be clean & tight. Also where it bolts to the frame. It sounds like a ground issue to me.

Don’t get discouraged!!!! It’s easy to get overwhelmed especially when getting advice from different sources. The guy in the video you posted is a professional mechanic. The Snap On box in the background is proof enough. I’m sure your timing chain is fine. 100K is low mileage for these engines. Try the fix in a can first. I stay away from them because the ones you add to the radiator can also plug up things like heater cores and thermostats. You tackled your valve adjustment so you’re good with basic mechanical skills. Only you can decide what’s best for you. It’s way to valuable to junk. Take your time. So maybe it takes the whole weekend or longer to change it out. I always look at it as money saved and skills learned. If you feel it’s going to be above your mechanical abilities, go a different route.

😂😂😂

My block had two raised pins to center the head. You can always use a couple of pieces of wooden dowel fed down from the top through the head bolt holes as you lower it down. The engine lift is perfect for this job. I bought the 1 1/2 ton lift from harbor freight. It fit perfectly under the front end of the cab. You might be able to find one used on CL or maybe a rental yard. It’s very important to clean out the head bolt holes in the block before reattaching the head. I used compressed air but something like a shop vac and a rag would work in a pinch. It’s important because any liquid left at the bottom will affect your torque readings. It can also split your block from hydraulic fracturing. Even if you use a new head, I’d still remove the old as a single unit. Much easier to play with frozen nuts and bolts on the workbench. 🙂 Only other thing I did was replace any attachment bolts for the manifolds with studs and nuts. Less chance of stripping the aluminum head from over torque.

I changed the head gasket on my 20R in my driveway. The only difference between the 22R and 22RE is the RE is fuel injected. The FSM calls for leaving the intake and exhaust manifolds attached to the head. I agree…. makes the job much easier. You should have two engine hooks (front&rear) attached to the head. Makes removal very easy. You will need a portable engine lift, some heavy duty chain and a helper. 1. Remove the hood 2. Drain all fluids from the engine 3. Disconnect and label all cables, wires and hoses. 4. Unhook the exhaust pipe from the manifold. The rest is just to follow the manual regarding head bolts, cam sprocket etc. Raise the head straight up and out. Take your time. I did my head gasket in about 2 hours but my engine is pretty basic without a lot of extras.

That’s some scary looking wiring. Personally, I’d gut all the 12v wires and start fresh. 120v should be easier to determine if it’s hooked up correctly. A good multimeter with continuity capabilities is a must. Also a good understanding of 12V automotive circuits.

I am a cummins guy. Ill check it out. With my slow approach maybe I can find one. I’m running a Detroit 353 in my 1987 YJ.

I always said if I hit the lotto I’d go with the Cummins 2.8 TD. Package is as ‘turnkey’ as it gets.

OK. Here’s one with wheels. That rustic country look.

Retro ride. No boondocking with that rig. 🙂

I went to rock for radiator (cheap) for 1987 Toyota pickup. Selected an OSC945 as it appears to be a common number. All shipping to zip 27603. Rock auto with shipping $109.78, Amazon $99.99 free shipping and free returns, Summit $109.99 free shipping and believe it or not Walmart $99.99 with free shipping. What I didn’t research was return policy. Amazon is free. Not sure about the others. Amazon the winner on this order. Linda, you’re amazing and you know that. Most knowledgeable person on this forum. My observation is not intended to be an attack on your ability to find parts. I grab the PN from rock and let google do the rest.