ednelson100

I just ordered these today. Free shipping to your front door then you take them to your local tire shop to have them mounted. https://simpletire.com/brands/thunderer-tires/ranger-r101#mpn=TH0304&tireSize=185-r14&userRegion=6&userZip=78217&v=1

I guess not everybody has this sticker on the driver side door and I was wrong I don't keep them at 55 I keep all six tires at 50 psi.

I don't know , I guess it's just me. My local truck tire shop had no explanation either and kept telling me they're good tires. Had the same problem with Nexen and Hankook. After 20K to 25K miles and still decent tread a bubble would appear and the tire would separate. One time it caused some real damage on the rear and almost broke the propane line. It happened eight times (haha, embarrassing) until I lowered the pressure to what's recommended on the door (55PSI)and then never happened again.

I was always taught to run your tire pressure as high as the tire allows to get better mileage so that's what I did. After having many blowouts on my 1991 Itasca I lowered the tire pressure to what it recommends on the driver's door (55 PSI) instead of 65 PSI and never had another blowout.

I say go for it and don't look back. I would love to take on a project like yours and there are others here too that have done it. It just takes patience and I see you already enjoy woodworking. I know it will be beautiful when you complete it and I guarantee when finished that every time you drive it or just look at it in the driveway you are going to feel sooooo good and say to yourself "wow this is so cool what I have accomplished". Please keep us posted with pictures of your progress.

Wow that looks beautiful could you describe a little more about what kind of wood and paneling you're using. I'm going to do something like that to mine.

Your location will make a huge difference. I'm in Texas and I've been seeing Toyota RVs going for half of what they're going for in California and other parts of the country.

That's right and also if you have a step up to the dining table.

Some people say peel and stick doesn't last in an RV but I've had mine in there for 6 years and I've had no trouble it's pretty easy to lay down and looks great when finished. You can buy aluminum edge molding at Lowe's or home Depot

I used peel and stick flooring in our 1991 Itasca about 5 years ago and haven't had any trouble with it yet. The average temperature inside the RV stays around 120 degrees when parked at home in San Antonio during the summer. We travel around a lot but never go up North during the winter.

Fiberglass resin is made to be used with fiberglass cloth without using the cloth it's only good for some applications and would be same as painting with a thick sticky paint and probably would crack and peel off in the future. I have used it coating wood in boating applications without the cloth but I wouldn't recommend it on metal.

Yes and tank would not need to be empty just gas level below where you're going to repair. If it's only a small area J-B weld would work too.

Fiberglass cloth with fiberglass or epoxy resin should work but the metal would have to be taken to bare metal with paint remover and sandpaper by hand. I would not recomend using any power tools that would make heat or a spark.

No, I had some left over, like for the upper control arm it is way easier to just replace the whole assembly which can also be purchased online very cheap and which I had already done. A couple of the other bushings still looked good so I just left them for now but some of the other bushings were completely worn out.

I bought this kit: https://www.amazon.com/PROTHANE-18-2004-Red-Total-Kit/dp/B002P8RDA0/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_tab_ap_asin_title There were 2 problems with it 1) The sway bar bushings were for a regular 4runner, 23mm bar and my 91 Itasca has 25mm bars but I used them anyway and were very tight. 2) the kit included 4 spring bushings that fit correctly and 4 spring bushings that were too large. I read other people had the same problem and they contacted Prothane and they sent them the correct ones free of charge shipping included and that's what I did too. For the rear sway bar I ordered this: https://www.4wheelparts.com//p/prothane-sway-bar-bushing-red-18-1109/_/R-BHLP-18-1109

I think you got a good deal. In Cal. It would have listed for over 20. Prices are going up on these things every year.

No, for the motorhome with 70,000 miles.

How much?

Does anyone know a part number for a Rear Sway Bar Prothane Bushing Kit (Red Preferred) for a 1991 Itasca? I have searched and searched and cannot find it. The sway bar appears to be 25MM same as the front sway bar but the link bushings look different. I have replaced all of my suspension bushings now except for the rear sway bar ones. Thanks

That's true and I'm sure when it was brand new it worked just like it was supposed to but after 30 years mechanic stuff can get stiff and will never work like they did new. Working on heating and air conditioning and a lot of other stuff most of my life I feel comfortable with it.

Linda, I had trouble with mine starting up too. I cleaned it, put a couple drops of oil on the motor shaft, and some duct tape on the sail to make it a larger area to activate the sail switch and it's been working fine for years now.

I have removed several cable driven, automatic, 2WD from Toyota T100 3.4 pickups and installed them in 3.0 RVs and they worked just fine. I'm not sure if they even made an automatic 4WD drive that would have the PN DLR cluster that you need. Defrag has swapped the electronic cluster and did have a couple issues, try contacting him or look up his posts.

Running great James, I just hit 200,000 miles on the 3.4 motor and compression on all cylinders is 170 to 195. Just about the same as when I installed it 2 years ago when it already had 150K. No major issues, but I did have to install a motor start relay to resolve the occasional only click when turning key to start.

If you meant "roof" it is a common problem on these Toys usually caused from the weight of the rooftop AC bouncing up and down for 30 years. Here is how I fixed mine. I think the easiest fix would be to just put up some poles from the inside which is explained on some other posts but I could not figure out a way to do that on mine.

Asking Price?