Vanman

Just removed rt rear tire, has a drywall screw in it, and installed spare. Wasn't leaking, yet, but have not seen a drywall screw short enough to not go deep enough to be a problem. And yes regular readers will remember that was the same location as the last drywall screw not too long ago. Guess it's better than getting one in the front, tho that would be easier to change vanman

I got a pack of these, http://www.amazon.com/Amico-BA15S-68-SMD-Brake-Backup/dp/B007VLFENE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1366145356&sr=8-1&keywords=Amico+10+Pcs+Car+1156+BA15S+1206+68-SMD+LED . They work sooo good I got 10 more and replaced my Toyota turn and back-up lites as well as all the lamps is the RV. Espically like the color of the light, much better than the yellow of the bulbs. I have also switched some of my home CFL's with LED's. vanman

My 1991 owners manual says; 22RE 1.4 Qt , 3VZ-E single rear wheel 1.9 Qt, rear dual wheels 2.3 Qt. Oil type API GL-5. Under recommended Viscosity says; A.D.D. SAE 75W-90 Except A.D.D. Above 0 F~18 C SAE 90 Below 0 F~18 C 80W or 80W-90 So what does A.D.D. mean ???? I only see it on page 190. vanman

Thanks for that link. I am giving up searching for that page. I am now saving web pages, not links, that I really want to keep. No internet even required for that. JC

NO that's not it, was about 5 pages long and pretty comprehensive. I've apparantly lost the bookmark and after more searching all I could find was this http://www.thorntonnetsales.com/toyotamotorhome/ , has anyone bought this ??? JC

I once saw a wiki page that listed all the various RV brands and years that used the Toyota pick-up. Was a very long list, with lots of info. After much searching I cannot find it. Thought it was a link I saw posted here?? JC

Pumping hard on the brake pedal has done it for me on the TOY and my Subaru. A friend said to try chocking the wheels so it won't go anywhere and shut motor off. Then turn ignition switch to run and pump brakes, then whilst still pushing down hard on the brake pedal start the motor, the pedal should go down more as you now have vaccumm assist. Haven't tried this myself, hoping not to have to. vanman

One thing I forgot to mention. I replaced everything new and the stainless clamps did not fit my bars at all. I had to reshape them by putting a socket with the right outside diameter inside them and slowly clamping down on the clamps with a vise. You have to use the vise as when the clamps are compressed the holes don't line up anymore. I reshaped the holes with a Dremel cutting rod bit and now everything fits good. Maybe they sent the wrong clamps but they can be made to work, maybe sometimes I'm too fussy for my own good JC

see http://store.stepvanparts.com/MIRROR-HEAD-GLASS-VELVAC-DUAL.HTM , JC

I don't use Google much anymore, use https://duckduckgo.com/ works for me. Vanman

Had a problem like this is and it was the socket. Meter reads ok but bulb contacts not making good connection. Bulbs are incandescent not LED ?? polarity important to LED, bulbs don't care. Vanman

And now Chase, hope they didn't get me..<> Vanman

After buying a crimp tool I was at Western Marine getting more lugs, killed too many in practice. Finding out the lugs are same price as I paid on-line, they have the great heavyduty heat shrink with heat activated adhesive inside, AND a great crimping tool that they will let you use. I had already ran the wires and zip tied 'em down but if I ever have to do any more I will do the runs at home and take them to the store for crimping. vanman

Cannot find the PDF with the info, but what I got is DELO 400 SAE 30 wt. oil for the Onan. Maybe that was from when I called them, there were two kinds of oil as I remember it but the DELO is sold all over, even found it at COSTCO. John

Camping Word and probably most truck supply places have tire pressure gauges and air chucks that will work with the dualies. Try for fit before you buy to make sure.

Sometimes more that absolute gear ratio it's more about getting the motors happy range to match your driving style and speed. Not having instruments on this rig I'm trying to drive it by feel only. Believe instruments are mucho better..always something more I want than what I have. Mine definately feels overgeared. So did my Aerostar when it was a fully loaded to the max as a work truck, but now that it's empty most of the time, I even removed all the racks,boxes, etc it had, seems to go real good, and better mileage. To compare to the Toyota, it's also a 3 speed auto with a switchable OD, shifts from 1st to 2nd at about 60MPH. MUCH higher than the RV.... JOHN

When mine started doing this I could always get it to go by jumping with my battery jump/light/air pump unit. Turns out it was the starter, the 13+ volts added by the starting unit on top of a good battery was enough to get it to work. When I had the starter replaced the mechanic said if this didn't work he would fix it for free, was sure it was the contacts on the bendix clutch. Didn't have to take him up on this, it's been fine ever since. In my case with the truck battery only every time it failed I saw no voltage drop on the truck battery while I was trying to crank it. YMMV John

I have an Onan 2800 in my 91 Dolphin, was ok now it's dead. Bad fuel pump for one. Anyway the instructions on mine say to not screw in the dipstick. Rest it on the top of the threaded tower to read oil level. They want a certian kind of oil, got mine at Western Marine here.

My next RV mod , no one who has done this regrets it as far as I know. John

Glad to help, I have gotten a whole lot from this forum, could not have gotten very far on the RV without it. Good to give back. John

Did you get the PD converer?? If you did you may find it handy to cut a hole in the fold down top cover so you can see the LED without having to open it up. I was going to enlarge the hole to give access to the push button too but because I travel with a large bird who is smart and attracted to everything I ended up puting a clear plastic cover over the hole, she looks but cannot get at it. Be gentle with that push button switch it's not too rugged. John

BTW, I was wrong about my converter going away. I took it out of the RV and after extensive testing seems OK. I have re-installed it in the RV, so far so good. I did remove the resistors on the ckt board so now if a fuse blows, or I have one removed, there is no voltage on that ckt, my coach LEDs would partially lite even with the fuse pulled!! I also removed any confusion by painting the 4 ckt board terminals black and red with an indelible felt tip marker. Black marker painted the white wires and red tape on the black wires, why can't the RV makers maintain the red+ / black- wiring color convention of every motor vehicle I've ever owned?? mine has a mix of colors on the same terminal at the battery....?? Not gonna re-wire but am re-labelling. john edit for my lousy spelling.....><

While you are replacing the brake fluid it might be time to replace also the rubber hoses on the front brakes. I don't know how old mine were, but they looked OK from the outside but I had everything changed anyway. Cut it in half and boy it sure didn't look too good from the inside. Was going to keep them as spares but threw them away. john

Modern chargers, like the one in your Toyota, will start at a high rate of charge then gradually lower the charge rate till the battery is charged at which time the charger is at a maintain rate. This Progressive Dynamics doesn't work like that. It has 3 outputs 14.44, 13.61, and 13.22 VDC. Before I added a switch on the dash to kill the power to the battery isolator coil anytime I started the Toyota the charger goes to 14.44 and stays there for a long time before switching to the 13.61 and then to the maintain 13.22 irregardless of the actual charge state of the deep cycle battery. I got this from Best Convertor, great people to deal with BTW, and he was happy to trade it for another convertor as he has several different ones in stock. I called all the other manufacturers and talked to their tech people and with different language and nomenclature it seems they all work exactly like this. Probably sourcing their solid state parts from the same jobber. Not exactly a "wizard" by today's standards. But with this one you can easily see what it's charging at and change it yourself, ie. be your own wizard.

It's hard to see from the picture on that linked page but what the "charge Wizard" has is a green LED and a micro switch pushbutton on the fused ckt board, connected to the power supply by a 4 pin micro plug and cable. The LED is on for 14.42 VDC output, blinks slow for 13.85 VDC and really slow for a 13.30 VDC maintain voltage. You can control the output by pressing and holding the button and it will cycle thru the outputs, let it go for the one you want it will stay there. I was not totally happy with the "wizards" auto operation so I like the manual control this set-up gives me. john