Vanman

You just need circulation. Put a vent on the bottom, one on the top and an exhaust fan on the top vent. That will move more air than the battery powered fans I have seen some use. If you can do that what do you need the chimney for ???

That's just where I ended up. I have many friends with the larger RV's and trucks with duals and they have all had problems with extensions over time. Toyota made them that way for a reason. That tire gauge looks like the end of the dial gauge I got at camping world. Just make sure they install them properly. The older ones had a pair of flats to use a wrench on to prevent them from turning while you tighten the collar nut on the outside. The new ones have a slot machined in the center for a screwdriver instead. The toy "dealer" did not install several of mine pointed in the proper direction and I had to take it back. Service writer couldn't see what I was complaining about !!! They were too lazy to fix it right by dismounting the tire so he used a pair of vicegrips to hold the brass tube from the outside and collapsed one, held air but I couldn't put a valve stem cap on it !!!! Bastards made me pay for the replacement. I took the tire off and had it replaced by a tire shop so all is well now. Where I live it's really hard to find anyone even competent to do repair work on anything. Soooo sorry I sold the building I had my shop in, biggest mistake I ever made.

Wasn't someone talking about swaping for the 4 L toy V6 and trans a while ago, how much easier might that be. Same motor mounts ???

Wow, "And it's only $14 bucks on amazon right now", great price. I have an old bowsaw that's 22" blade and it came with a plastic sheath for the blade, which detaches easily. A lot easier to store that way. All the labels are gone except for { Pat. 3.329.187 } engraved on the release handle, don't remember where I got it, but it cuts great.

I have one of these: http://www.machetespecialists.com/gegamagagrha.html . In all of my vehicles. The blade's not properly sharpened from the manufacturer, but the saw is almost as good as my big bowsaw. It's really strong because it's really thick, never saw a machete that thick before, nice handle and sheath.

I got 6 from the TOY dealer. Work fine, old ones looked ok but they are brass and after 20+ years I figured it was time.

If it's just road trash great, but if it's part on the RV I would sure want to know that. Not much in the way of unimportant parts on the bottom of the RV.

I love both my Micros have a real old Montgomery Ward ( early '80's ) and one in the RV.

If the battery is near fully charged that would be correct, once fully charged the current should drop to around 1 amp per battery. Is the charging system charging the Toyota battery OK ?? Is the shunt for the meter in series with the alternator output or in series with the coach battery feed??

If you want flat black the metal etching paint is awesome, better heat transfer and tough to boot. Some places call it raditator paint.

Years and years working on the Japanese motorcycles is to use the Impact only once, to remove the phillips head screws then replace with quality allen head screws. No problems after that.

It's a Dometic, will try to find model #. It's a 2 way in the sense you can extend the vertical arms and leave them attached to the bottom of the RV or detach them and run them straight down, the feet have holes for the tent stakes. Either way ours is not as stable as I like things to be I went to a Ben Franklin and got, 2 4 packs of stakes, stake hammer with removal claw, and 50' of 1/4 nylon rope. Burn rope in center to get 2 25' lengths. Run each rope around the top ends of the extended awning, one or two wraps, and run to the ground, (at a 45 degree angle), and stake each end. Even if you get a windstorm (which we did get at Burney Falls) no problems. It says A&E Systems on the bottom of both vertical struts. I measured it at 12 feet, which is as long as you could put on ours. I have had it well over 6 feet extended, don't know how long it goes.

The data location is behind the drivers seat not on the door jamb. It's from National RV: date of manufacture by National 8 / 91 date of INC, MFG is 3 / 91 G.V.W.R. 6000# G.A.W.R. front 2300# with 185R14tires, 14X5J rims, at 36# PSICOLDSINGLE rear 4400# with 185R14 tires, 14X5J rims, at 45# PSICOLD DUAL THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLICABLE FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFTEY STANDARDS IN EFFECT IN : 3 / 91 V.I.N JT5VN94T7MOO..... TYPE MPV 200a Thats what it says. 200a is the National info # I guess, what does the MPV mean class of RV ?? * 91 Dolphin 400 94 Aerostar 08 Subaru H6 Outback * Back to top #22 [2 Maintenance Questions: post #22] SEE CHANGE TO REAR PRESSURE SORRY !!!

Given the weight distribition on our RV's wouldn't it be better to put the weight on the front??

"recommended" tire pressures are a joke from most manufacturers. The Subaru Outback forums have an incredibly long sticky post about what a horrid POS the stock tires are. Recommended is 32# front 30# rear from clueless SOA (Stupids Of America). Hard driving will just make the front end push like mad with no road feel and a howling noise if you try to tighten your line at all. Classic underinflation, I settled on 35# all 4 and what a difference!!! It's still not a good tire but the holding and now nimble steering make it fun to drive hard in mountain roads. But the new Michelin Premier A/S shoes are sooo much better, I've yet to even get a squeal from them and they like running at 35# also.

WRONG WRONG WRONG sorry see new post !!!!!!!

Does the ZZDP have any effect on the wear factor of cold oil, ie: cold oil not up to running temperature???

EDIT FROM BEFORE: On the Toy 55# rears, 48# in fronts. That's much higher than the dataplate on the Toy says, don't know how they got to that, thou Hankook said to me in an e-mail "I have had some difficulty finding a digital chart to email to you. However, I have done some calculations based on my reference materials and the loads that you estimate each tire will need to carry. I have come to the conclusion that the vehicle conversion manufacturer has provided you with quality tire pressure recommendations. Front - 36psi (248kpa) = approx 1200 lbs of load capacity per tire (single application) Rear - 45psi (310kpa) = approx 1400 lbs of load capacity per tire (dual application) You can increase inflation according to additional loads and tire wear " so go figure??? They sure look too flat for me at those pressures.

I was thinking stainless steel tape. I put some on the top of the Ford top brake lite assy 10 years ago and it's still good. That might have worked originally?? I just had my roof reworked and had all new fixtures as they were cracking all over, only last so long I guess.

Wouldn't it be more efficient to use 2 motors one on each wheel and lose the diff and other drivetrain as well?

Is the socket that's rounding the points of the nut/bolt double broached, (also called undercut I think??) If putting large pressure, get this kind for sure. I think Snap-on invented this but the patents have run out and almost everyong makes them like this now, but I have seen many that are not. Did some searching and found out the "double broach" refers to 12 points, the 6 point sockets/wrenches are called "single broach". The 1/2" drive 6 point socket I got for the wheel lugs is cut out a lot, good me thinks.

I use Mobil 1 high vehicle mileage in everything I've got, 10-40 in the Toy and 10-30 in the Ford. Subaru is 5-30, but not the High Vehicle Mileage blend. There is a large post about the various types and blends elsewhere on this board. Makes a good read.

Why not just patch it??, should be easy.

We have the kind that has an aluminum pleated cover plates. Just roll it up and it's protected from the elements. Ours is old, but when you roll it out looks like new. Cost more but really worth it in my view.

I saw some originals, (red) for sale on line and thought yeah, what the heck, but the prices were all in the hundreds of dollars .