bufbooth

Hello All, I finally got my Toyota wrapped up for the winter, just barely, it started snowing as I was finishing up. I was pretty happy with the RV cover ($159 with free shipping), the material was about twice as thick as my old one (which lasted 6 years), the roof was heavier than the sides. It also came with a ladder cover to help prevent the ladder from doing damage. The front and rear tighteners (like shoe strings) worked great, they really pulled the cover tight, and it had 6 straps to secure/tighten up the bottom.

I did not replace the front pads, they were on it when I purchased it (8 years and 20,000 miles ago), they still look like +50% pad life, so I don't know what kind of pads they are. Regarding the rear proportioning valve, yes, it is adjustable. Also, from what I read it sounds like not 100% open, some folks have commented that they had some success by removing it from the adjuster and strapping it to the bottom of the coach floor, to get the valve to open up more, I think I will try that first (since its the quickest), and if that does not help, I will remove it. Thanks all...

Hello All, Last year I put new rear drums and brake pads on my 1990 Toyota and flushed all the old fluid out of the entire system. The brake pedal was firm and high, so all looked great. Over the summer I had the "opportunity" to test the brakes, I had to hit them hard and as a result the front brakes lock up (only the front) and I skidded (in a straight line) for a lot longer than I thought I should of. I guessed that the rear brakes were not adjusted as tight as they could, so I jacked the rear tires off the ground and tightened the rear brakes until I could barely hear some rubbing. A couple days later on a wet road I realized at the last second that I needed to make a right hand turn and applied the brakes hard and the front tires locked up for a couple seconds on the wet payment. So, regarding adjusting the rear brakes, should I be tightening them a little more, that is until I hear/feel more rubbing/dragging? I just do not want to over tighten them. Also, I do have the rear proportioning valve adjusted to the max. Thank you, Dennis...

Very nice, I think this is the 2nd one I have seen for sale.

After doing some clean up and removing most of the dash, and time for me to clam down, it was the resistor pack that ignited the mouse nest. I have been fighting the mice for the last 5 years and thought that I won last year, since I did not have any signs of mice getting into the coach area. I had sealed up any holes/cracks that I could find, put metal screen in the engine air intake, and built a 1 foot aluminum wall around the motorhome during storage. I had the motorhome in the driveway (out at a farm) for the last two months, and believe that is when they invaded the heater vents. I still did not have any signs of them being in the coach area. Once I get the heater motor out and all the vents I can get out, going to clean them up (remove the smoke damage/smell), and use metal screen to seal up any entry areas that I see. I will try to relocate the resistor (so I can see it or get to it easier) and will close its openings with metal screen to at least keep any future invaders a couple inches from it. Thanks to all for replying. Dennis...

Hello Derek, I am not sure it is the resister pack, but it sure looks like one. From what I read, a resister pack controls the speed of the fan, I think I still have at least two speeds on the fan working, and that is with whatever I disconnected. If it is the resister pack, I will need to replace it, but will probably screen it (to keep mice out) and move it in a better (safer) location if possible. Thanks...

Hello All, I had a close call today with my 1990 Toyota Odyssey, I had an under the dash fire on the passenger side. I was barely able to put it out, I thought I was going to lose the camper due to the amount of smoke coming out. I have had some past mice nest problems inside of the heater blower motor that I have been trying to stop, but the fire was not caused by the heater blower, but instead a thermostatically controlled heat element and is just to the left of the heater blower motor. It appears that this heat element is designed to heat up to provide warm air until the engine warms up. It is about 4 inches square (I will post pictures later), each end is open (to allow air to flow through it) and in the middle is a couple (2 or 3) wire coils. A mouse decided to build a nest in it and above it. It was 40F this morning, so it appears that the coil turned on, got hot, and caught the mouse nest(s) on fire. My damage is mostly limited to the heat coil plug and the carpet below, and smoke damage. The fire started about 30 seconds after I turned the heater on. I drove the Toyota for about an hour last weekend with no issues, but it was above 60F, so the heat element never turned on. I do NOT plan on replacing this heat element and highly recommend others to remove it or unplug it (standard type automotive push in electrical plug) if there is any doubt that your Toyota is mouse proof.

Hello All, I had a close call today with my 1990 Toyota Odyssey, I had an under the dash fire on the passenger side. I was barely able to put it out, I thought I was going to lose the camper due to the amount of smoke coming out. I have had some past mice nest problems inside of the heater blower motor that I have been trying to stop, but the fire was not caused by the heater blower, but instead a thermostatically controlled heat element and is just to the left of the heater blower motor. It appears that this heat element is designed to heat up to provide warm air until the engine warms up. It is about 4 inches square (I will post pictures later), each end is open (to allow air to flow through it) and in the middle is a couple (2 or 3) wire coils. A mouse decided to build a nest in it and above it. It was 40F this morning, so it appears that the coil turned on, got hot, and caught the mouse nest(s) on fire. My damage is mostly limited to the heat coil plug and the carpet below, and smoke damage. The fire started about 30 seconds after I turned the heater on. I drove the Toyota for about an hour last weekend with no issues, but it was above 60F, so the heat element never turned on. I do NOT plan on replacing this heat element and highly recommend others to remove it or unplug it (standard type automotive push in electrical plug) if there is any doubt that your Toyota is mouse proof.

To help reduce tarp damage from items on the roof, I put a 20x30 blue tarp over the top, then put a full RV cover over the top, and put a rope all around the rv in the mid-section to help keep the tarp from blowing around.I am parked inside of a group of evergreen trees that greatly reduce the wind, and it is on a slight angle to help keep the rain/snow off. My last tarp lasted 5 years this way. Dennis..

I was going over my Toyota this weekend for one last campout of the year (next weekend) and checked my propane tank and couldn't believe how fast time flies, my tank was one year overdue for re-certification. Will have that done over this winter. Dennis...

I don't have a generator, but spent hours tracking down a blown fuse in the past. On your circuit breaker box, check to see if you have a small panel/door on it, about 3 x 6 inches (maybe secured by a single bolt). Mine had three in-line fuses in it, in which one of my was blown. Also, there is a fuse box under the hood (engine area), and in the cab under the dash (can't recall if on passenger or driver side). Dennis...

Totem, are you sure they are ambidextrous? My Toyota had the 3Ts installed but never looked right (they were on an angle). When I went to replace my shocks I realized that the $&$* shop that installed the originally took a hammer and drove the shock into the base of the 3T bracket, damaging the shock. After staring at them for about 30 minutes I realized they were on the wrong side. I switch them and the angle was gone and I had space between the shock and the 3T bracket. Since mine are a few years older, maybe they were not ambidextrous. Dennis...

Hello All, I just purchased one of these ADCO SFS AquaShed 42842 Class C covers on ebay. The seller still has 8 more. The buy it now is $159 with Free shipping. I have seen his model selling for over $350 in the past. This model has the zipper sides for easy access, triple layer roof, separate ladder cover, front and back pull backs (for a tighter fit), and flat straps. This size is for 20.1 feet to 23 feet (276 inches long (23 feet), 102 inches wide (8.5 feet, and 108 inches tall (9 feet). I have not received mine yet, currently being shipped. These are new, but discontinued. search ebay for "ADCO 42842" or just the ebay listing number of: "331328693466". Dennis...

I have never saw it sold by the inch, always seen it sold by the foot. In Indianapolis, the only part store that carried/sold it was Napa auto part stores, and the price (I just replaced a one foot piece three months ago) was $15 a foot for gasoline grade 2-inch fuel hose. A lot of the Toyotas had a two foot or so metal tube to save cost, but when my fuel line started to break down, I replaced the hose (ran from the fuel cap to the metal elbow near the gas tank) with one solid hose, which was 5 feet long, or about $75 of hose. Dennis..

For the brake rotors, try Rock Auto and go with a brand name. Make sure the brake parts state for 1-Ton and Dual Rear Wheels (ie. 1990 or newer example) Looks like AC Delco rotors go for $29.

I was up in Northern Wisconsin on a motorcycle trip (9/13-9/15) and ran across three Toyota motorhomes.

Try Halifax Tire Company, 434-476-2157 Looks like they carry Nexen SV820 (185/R14C - Load Range D (8 ply)

Replaced the gas tank fuel vent hose (four feet worth), and about a foot of gas filler hose, where it connects to the gas tank. Also noticed that my passager side rear axle seal failed, pull the axle and replaced the wheel seals today.

Looks like we got Five and three maybes so far...

Hello All, Sorry about not posting the usual updates like I have in the past, just been a really busy summer. So far counting myself, we have four confirmed Toyotas and four maybes.

we put a wood panel floor down in our Toyota and it was made to go right over the top of the old carpet, so we did not have to pull the old carpet up.

Check to see if the vent holes on the converter is clogged/blocked up. Dennis...

For anyone that is planning on attending this rally and had an interest in going to the Mt. Olympus water and ride park, the below link is for limited time (to purchase) tickets for $15 a person. The price is normally $45 a person. The tickets are good to use until September 1st, 2014. http://www.mtolympuspark.com/summer-blowout Dennis...

I drain the tank, then put a cup of bleach in and fill it up. Leave alone for 24 hours, then drain and fill three times. If you still have concerns about the tank, you can always install a water filter on the water line. Dennis...