bufbooth

This is interesting (the NOTE below), found it stated in a 1990 Honda manual for the Radio Condenser: 1. Use a commercially available condenser tester. Connect the tester probes and measure the condenser capacity. Condenser capacity: 0.47 +/- 0.09 microfarads NOTE:The radio condenser is intended to reduce ignition noise; however, condenser failure may cause the engine to stop running. 2. If not within specification replace the radio condenser.

The old battery is currently taking a charge from a battery charger, so it might still have some life in it. I will check all the fuses out first, then clean all the ground wires/connectors and add an extra ground (perTotem) and then see if the alternator is working or not. My battery isolator is a Sure Power 9523A 95 Amp Battery Isolator, which I believe is original from 1990. I can still buy this exact model for $40. If I need to replace the isolator, any reason to buy a different model? Also, if the alternator is bad, any suggestions on a replacement (brand/amps), or just replace it with the OEM one?

I was able to read the full number off of that square black part, it was 90980-04036 and when I looked it up it states that it is a "CONDENSER, RADIO SETTING", other part sites just state CONDENSER.

Also, I was inspecting the wires between the alternator and the battery isolator and when I touched the black wire going into that square black part (numbered 90980) the engine would rev down, any idea what that part is and why the engine would rev down?

I put a volt meter on the truck battery (the Marine battery) with engine off tonight and it read 12.5 volts. I started the engine and the volt meter read 11.75 volts, so I am guessing that the alternator is dead. Any suggestions for a replacement alternator, brand, AMP output? I have a 1990 with the V6 engine.

I have a removable cylinder.

Be sure to inspect the blower motor speed reduction relay that is in the vent to the left of the blower motor. Last October a mouse built a nest on the relay (looks like 3 or 4 zig zag wires) and it caught fire, melted the blower motor (like 50% of it dripped on the floor) before I was able to get the fire out. The entire cab filled with dark black smoke while I was driving (that is trying to pull over). I have the replacement blower motor/housing and a replacement glove box to install next week. I am going to screen in the blower motor speed reduction relay and try to find / screen in where the mice was getting into the blower motor.

I finally took my 1990 Odyssey out of storage today. It was sitting wrapped up from October 2014 to Aug. 01, 2015. At that time I unwrapped her and drove her about 50 yards. In the past I had a slow battery draw, so I had a battery disconnect installed on the truck battery. My Toyota started up on Aug. 01, but after I moved her I forgot to disconnect the battery, so for the last four weeks the battery drained all the way down. So to get her started today, I jumped the truck battery with the fully charged Marine battery and let her run for 30 minutes while I packed things up. I then started driving home (which is about 1 hour away), I got about 10 miles down the road while driving 55 mph and the engine died and I had zero power, not even enough to turn on the flashers. I was out in the country on an empty state route and there was no shoulder to pull over (just a nice deep ditch), so I put it in neutral and tried to coast to the next county side road. I fell short about 50 yards. The road was either level or had a very slight incline between me and the county side road. I had my wife with me, so I jumped out and she got behind the wheel and amazingly enough I was able to push the Toyota the 50 yards to get to the side road (my left knee is just realizing that I did something today). So, once on the side road, I popped the hood and the battery was 100% dead, the 30 minute idling and 10 minutes of driving at 55 mph did not charge the battery at all. I swapped the engine battery with the Marine battery and she fired right up. I am not 100% sure why the engine died at 55 mph, I would of thought that even with a dead battery she would be able to run. I then realized that my truck battery was 9 years old, I had put a new battery in it when I brought her back in 2006. Guessing maybe the battery is internally damaged / or shorted out. My other thought is that maybe the gas was not 100%, I had a 1/4 tank and I had put stabilizer in it when I stored it. There was a gas station about 5 miles behind me, so I decided to head back there. For good measure, I put a pint of STP gas treatment in the tank and filled the tank up, which was 10 gallons in my 15 gallon tank. I was able to make it the rest of the way home (1 hour at 55 to 70 mph) with the Marie battery as my engine battery with no issues. I will replace the 9 year old battery with a new one. Anyone have a theory on why the engine died while I was driving at 55 mph? Thank you, Dennis...

Hello All, I will not be able to host the October Toy-In. An update on its status will be coming from Tika.

In case anyone has an old Propane tank that is past it's Certified date and therefore cannot get it filled, one can get them Re-Certified for five years at a time. I just got my original 1990 30lb horizontal propane tank Re-Certified for another 5 years. The cost was $23, which included 20lbs of propane (it had 10lbs in it when I brought it in). Dennis...

I have seen over 30 Toyota Motorhomes in and near Anchorage over the last ten days.

A few folks have been emailing me recently about the Fall Midwest Toy-In, along with the inquiries on this website. The date and location will be: October 2nd - 4th (at least), and in Oregon, Illinois (N.W. Illinois) Tika actually found this location and she will be providing all the details on it shortly. The town of Oregon has their Fall festival (Autumn on Parade - Flashback to 1970s Theme) that weekend.

we mostly use our microwave for popcorn. I had thought about removing it, but it is a newer light weight one and when not in use is great for storing food items like bread, so we do use it for storage.

A company or two in India was working on Compressed Air motorcycle conversions, that is it would work on a gasoline engine since compress air is what makes a fuel burning engine work.

Right now just kicking around the idea of somewhere in Wisconsin, Illinois, or Indiana. Always will consider suggestions.

put a rubber snake under the hood, and get some metal screen and put it over the top of the engine, that is push the screen down over the top of the engine. The screen makes it hard for the mice to travel around on the engine. This worked for me to keep the mice out of the manifold area. Also, pull your air filter out and put a metal screen in front of the vent inlets, they love to make a nest there. For under $20 you can get a metal mouse trap (mice go in but cannot come out) that will hold up to 30 mice. http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-4003/Pest-Control/Mouse-Trap-Multi-Catch?pricode=WY726&gadtype=pla&id=H-4003&gclid=CKW46-3NssUCFQaPaQodYCMAQA&gclsrc=aw.ds

Sometimes they are on the rear bumper, mounted on the bumper supports.

Any interest in a Fall (Sept-Oct) 2015 Midwest Toy In? Dennis...

Why doesn't the buyer just fly to you and drive it back?

I pulled the heater blower motor out, about 1/4 of it was melted. I was able to find a used unit on ebay for $45 (free shipping) that was the complete housing, motor, and resistor.