Derek up North

Winnebago seems to have changed their website. My visit this morning made it more difficult to locate their wiring and plumbing diagrams (back to 1990). Haven't found their parts lists yet. If you haven't visited yet and own a Warrior, it might be a good idea to download anything you might need now. This info could disappear at any time. https://winnebago.com/owners/owner-tools/service http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Plumbing.htm http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm

I've no 22RE, so the best I can offer is this, starting page ~207. https://toyotachinook.wordpress.com/2011/12/15/how-to-keep-your-toyota-pickup-alive/

I'm sure that however it was lengthened, Sunrader used as much of the original as possible to keep costs down.

It's really hard to tell from you photo, but are those Robertson (square drive)? Common in Canada, little known in the US.

Get a Dremel with a thin cutting disc and turn them into slotted screws for a flat bladed screwdriver.

Ah. The LWB truck would have had a 110" WB and would be used to build an 18' 'Shortie'. It would have been Sunrader that cut & stretched the frame & driveshaft for a 21 footer. Sorry, I've no idea what Sunrader might have done for a driveshaft. Linda S is the resident Nissan Expert. Perhaps she'll have an idea.

She rarely visits to comment. I think what you see is what you get. Remove the backrest/cushions and you've got a bed. Doesn't look like it's a 54' wide 'full/double'

Try NAPA (I haven't). You can select vehicle by VIN.

I guess, ideally, you'd find a supplier site that can use your VIN to find the correct parts. They exist for Toyotas and I assume also for Datsun/Nissan. Even if it only give you a Part Number, you can probably x-refence to Aftermarket parts.

Before opening your wallet too wide, I'd suggest you get a 'leak down' test and a 'coolant system pressure test'.

Grab yourself one (or two) of these. https://www.autozone.com/collision-body-parts-and-hardware/headlight-socket/dorman-headlight-connector-85810/600510_0_0

This might help. And you could always remove the outer rims.

Do you have a record of when the HG was changed? What mileage?

I'd say that unless they were replaced very recently, you're on your own.

13500Btuh https://www.airxcel.com/DesktopModules/RvProduct/Pdf/8333bdata.pdf

I think we've still got a way to go before it becomes practical and affordable. http://www.solarelectricvwbus.com/home.html

There are often requests for recommended mechanics, here and elsewhere. I thought it was time to try to gather info in one place. I'm sure it'll take a while to make a useful list, but you've got to start somewhere! If you've got someone to add, post below and I'll add them. Please include contact info and a short review of work done. Here's one I just 'borrowed' from FB. ARIZONA Tucson JRMechanix 5050 w. Calle don Alberto Tucson, Arizona 85757 (520) 286-3729 https://www.facebook.com/JRMmechanix/ NEW HAMPSHIRE Hampton Frank’s Garage. 99 Timber Swamp Rd, Hampton, NH 03842 (603) 926-4900. https://www.franksgaragenh.com/ "He’s a heavy truck garage with lifts that can accommodate any size Toyota motorhome. Complete mechanical work on these old Toyota’s. Also does metal fabrication, welding, custom exhaust and has a paint shop. This is my “go to” shop for any work I need to have done. He did my 5 lug to GM ff axle including any parts that needed to be fabricated. Highly recommend." TEXAS San Antonio Masters Lube 2450 Babcock Rd #144, San Antonio, TX 78229 From FB:- "They worked on my Hilux Galaxy when no one else would even look at it. Great guys!" OREGON Tangent Patriot RV 33919 Hwy 99E, Tangent, OR 97389 (541) 704-0583 From FB:- "The guy is awesome. He has helped me out quite a bit with old parts. Repairs RV’s and builds new ones from the ground up. I brought in my Chinook Newport once and he had never seen one but was old buddies with the Chinook founders. Real neat guy."

Before deciding and doing final negotiations, you'd better look behind the hub caps and see if it still has the original 5 lug rear axle. Sunrader Axle Recall - RC-91V061-NN.pdf

I've no experience with it, but I don't read good things about Flexseal. It sounds like everything you see on TV infomercials is not as it seems.

Designed for 2"x6" walls, so 5 1/2" thick. I've never played with Rockwool, so no idea how easy it is to split into thinner pieces compared to the 'classic' fiberglass batts. https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rockwool-comfortbatt-r22-16-inch-o-c-for-2x6-wood-studs/1000123043

There's a diminishing return on insulation thicknesses & R-values.

R-values are express in R-value/inch of thickness. Often, much of the value is due to air trapped in the insulation. Roxul/Rock Wool isn't 'insanely' different from fiberglass batts. I believe Rock Wool R15 batts are 3" thick, so R5/inch.

Though I agree that the axle is important, I think the cost to 'fix' is way less unless you get 'taken' for a ride. I'd say more like $1000-$2000 installed.

I would only use a straight tube if I was trying to have a flat roof. And even that won't be flat once you install a roof A/C.