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Dolphinite no longer here

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Everything posted by Dolphinite no longer here

  1. Kolie711, You're have to get it tipped back up on to its wheels, first! John
  2. So, are you removing this stuff to sell it? If so, I'm interested in the refrigerator. John
  3. Well some of these things are beyond my comfort zone without actually seeing your rig in person. The engine should be gone over caarefully before you try to start it. I guess it depends on how long its been sitting. There are some real mechanical pros here that may be able to advise you a lot better than me. The roof is a good place to start and I'd stay off it for the time being. If the skylights are in good shape as well as the vents for the plumbing, you shouldn't have to go up there. You can coat the roof from a ladder, moving it around the edge so that you can get everywhere. Use a roller with a long handle for the big open areas and by leaning in from the edge, you should be able to get to the tight areas with a paint brush. Be sure and clean the roof as best you can first. If you have to go up there to replace a vent, etc., lay down a piece of 1/2" plywood or a 2x10 and stay on top of it. The wood will help to spread your weight around better. If there's enough of your shore power cord left, you might be able to splice a new one onto the old stub. An RV shop can advise you on what size and length to use as well as the plug for the end. A note here: if you don't have much money into this rig, you might want to cut your losses and get rid of it now. This is a tough thing to say to someone with a new "baby" but sometimes its the best option when it comes to an RV that is in such bad shape and one that needs so much work. I've seen some owners here and on other sites where the owner removed the RV coach part and made a flatbed truck out the rest. If you can get it running, it might be an option. John
  4. Good photos! Looks like you've got some work ahead of you. The first thing I'd do is seal the roof to stop any further damage. A simple fix is to coat the roof with that white stuff used to coat mobile home roofs. You can get a gallon of the stuff at Home Depot or Lowe's. Put two coats on 24 hours apart. Next step would be to remove and reinstall all the windows and the running lights New lenses for the running lights are available at the same RV store that that you got the black butyl tape at. Scrape all the old goo off and reseal with black butyl tape. The stuff is available at most RV stores. Not all the stained wood is a goner. If you can't easily poke your finger through the stained areas and the wood isn't delaminating and coming apart, leave it in place. Of course this means that you'll have to paint the walls and ceiling if you want a perfect look in there. Did you remove the refrigerator and the furnace? Looks like they aren't there. The refrigerator can be replaced with a 110 volt unit but you need to be plugged in to shore power, or have solar panels to power the thing. The little door that's closed is probably where you fill up the fresh water tank. One key usually workes for all the doors. At least it does on my '85 Dolphin. You can get them, I think, at a locksmith shop. Upgrading all the compartment door locks isn't a bad idea, though, since anyone can open these simple locks with just about any key or even a screwdriver. The small door that's open should be the place where you'd find an electrical cord that you can plug in to a 110 volt outlet. Is it missing? You do have the good axle so don't replace that. Quite a few people have replaced their taillight bulbs with LED bulbs. They're a lot brighter and use a lot less electricity. If you have the old fixtures, this might be a solution. Otherwise complete new triple taillight assemblies are available. It might be a good way to go for you. Good Luck! John
  5. The link to Photobucket doesn't work. I just get other people's photos. Also, before you tear things apart, post better photos here. There's a wealth of knowledge here that could save you a lot of work. John
  6. kolie711, Can you post more photos of the interior/exterior taken a little further back and rotated so that they are upright? It's difficult to see what damage there is when the pictures are so close to the subject and turned on their side. From what you have posted there is some water damage evident. You said some things are missing in your post. What's not there?
  7. Rachel, I have the same year and model Dolphin that you have. My interior looks a little different than your's because I painted everything in mine and changed out the "wrought iron" cabinet supports for some better looking ones that I made. Ladders are available at most RV supply places or on line. They run about $100 and are made to fit most small RV's. Easy to install, too. As far as walking on the roof, I'd be very careful where you step up there. I get up on my roof, but I try to stay on the roof beams that run across the roof. They are kinda' visible and are visibly stiffer than the unsupported aluminum panels between the beams. I weigh about 195 and haven't fallen through, yet... I re-seal my roof every two years with that white paint or roll on goo available from Home Depot. I put two coats on 24 hours apart. Make sure you have good weather for a couple of days. Rain will wash the uncured stuff right off the roof! The "hitch" on my Dolphin (and probably yours) is sort of a joke. I wouldn't hang anything back there heavier than a couple of aluminum lawn chairs. However, quite a few people have had their hitch reinforced and haul small trailers and even a small car. A good hitch shop can do the work but it can run about $300 for a good job. Maybe $400. The hitch needs to have extra steel run from the rear forward to the original main frame of the truck. If you don't do the work yourself, make sure the shop knows what you want to haul back there and how much it will weigh. I've seen some nice cabinet work done where the cabover bunk is on some of the Toyhomes. Its up to you on how custom you want to make it. I use the rear bunk to sleep in and just make it up every morning. I've got it down to a science and can get everything set up for the road in about one minute. Literally... My cabover bunk holds all the stuff that doesn't fit anywhere else like bedding, a guitar, some outdoor stuff, the awning crank, etc. I do try to keep only relatively light things up there - no canned goods or the like. Going over the dips in the road puts an instantaneous but heavy load on the cabover, hence the light weight. I also rebuilt the cabover several years ago and made it stronger using real plywood and epoxy instead of the flimsy original junk it was built with. So far no problems. You might have to watch your weight up there if you're going to be full timing, but it can be done if you're careful. You mentioned painting...I looked at yours and it reminded me of what a dark cave I started out with. I went whole hog with the paint and everything is off white or beige now. It makes the place seem much bigger, I'll include some photos here if I can figure out how to do it. Good luck! John
  8. DP: What jdemaris said plus once you make the cardboard template and lay it down on the new wood, draw a line around the outside of the template with a pencil. Before cutting, get a box cutter ( or utility knife or razor knife or whatever you want to call it) and make a cut right on the pencil line. Go at least through the first layer of wood with your cut. Then when you cut out the piece, stay just to the throw-away side of the cut line and you won't have any chipping at all. Also, if you're only using 1/8" thick paneling, just cut the whole thing out with the utility knife. That's what I used in my '85 Dolphin and it has held up just fine. Use a new, sharp blade! It'll take a couple of passes to go all the way through but it'll work great. Saves you having to go buy a jig saw if you don't have one... John
  9. That's nice work, Karen. What are you going to make with the chop saw? I thought you only did miniatures. John
  10. I moved to Juneau in '71 and after that, drove the Alcan many times. Back in '71, the Canadian portion was almost all gravel and, in the Spring, gravel and mud. The highway has come a long way since then. Like Karen says, its pretty much like traveling anywhere else except for the scenery. Ahh, the scenery... John
  11. I've looked everywhere for this little switch and can't seem to find it. What does it look like and where is it in the furnace? Do I have to remove the furnace to see the switch? It's a Hydroflame 16,000 BTU "D" model in an '85 Dolphin. Stumped in Montana... John
  12. So, I see your new faucet set has the wider spaced hot and cold handles. Did you alter the holes in the sink or did your sink already have the wide set holes for the faucet you put in? John
  13. Thanks, Linda. I guess I'm just not getting replies to the mail I've sent. John
  14. The little "mail indicator flag" doesn't pop up any more on my computer. Is there a way to make it reappear again? John
  15. I've found that the flangers or lampjanners are often the problem. Although, I might be wrong... Johni
  16. I think this forum is just crackers! That's why its so easy give a rozzer the dropsy in snide. Anyway, I have to go framble the portisan while its still cool and barkney... John
  17. Now this is what an RV should be! Google "Kiravan" to see one man's idea of a camper... John
  18. JD, Those heaters look like the deal for a little Toyhome. Europe has been ahead of us in this department for quite some time. Back in my boating days, we heated our 40 foot sloop with an Espar heater that ran off diesel fuel. Great little unit that was a little complicated to install but worked great. We even ran a duct into the cockpit so that when the cockpit awning and side curtains were in place we had a somewhat warm place to sit while sailing in the Winter in Juneau, Alaska! Anyway, do you have any idea of the prices for the units you showed photos of? John
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