Tom W

Foremost specialize in MH & Boat ins its about half of what I pay for a pickup just liability, my Farmers agent sent me to them, I think they figure that you don't drive a MH as much.

There's a advantage to the stock Toyota screw type it doesn't need oil that gets low when you need it (not very often) I tried mine it will do the job on the road,at home I use a bottle jack.

If your gas millage is normal I would think the Converter is ok, one way to check is taking the temp before & after converter should be a lot hotter down stream 100deg or more then closer to eng these temps will be in the 200 to 300degs or more at idle. I would check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner or something in the area's in question be careful flammable and you should notice a change in Rpm. Intake manifold leaks can cause all kinds of Problems and codes and for some reason gets ignored.

Overall this has been a good post hope I can remember some of it when mine does something similar. The VW was Rabbit Also had a 68 bug with a carb dunebuggy

(Cold start problem sort of) Mine had a plugged Cold start Injector and no problem starting down to 20 degs or so after I got it cleaned and checked that it worked when cranking, I didn't notice any difference starting maybe it not needed that much. I had a VW with the extra Injector for starting,ended up putting switch and only using it in cold weather, it seemed like it flooded it in hot weather somewhat.

This is from a different page I think this is without the jumper. (1) Turn ign ON. (2)The O/D off light will come on when the O/D is in off position. (3) When the O/D switch is set to ON The "O/D" light should shut off. If the "O/D light flashes when the O/D switch is set to ON, the electronic control system is faulty.I assume we're talking about the same veh Mine's a 91 one ton V6 the book is referring to AT (A340E)

This is from factory manual trans Diagnostic codes there are five 42,61,62,63,64 all to do with Solenoids or 2 speed sensors, directions are(1)turn on ign,do not start eng turn on O/D (2) connect terminals TE1&E1 of the check connector located next to under hood fuse block (right side) from drivers seat. To read count flashes O/D light if normal will flash 2 times per sec. TomW

I'm going to look in the morning seem to remember there's a way to check trans codes the blinking OD light could be something

Might as well throw in my 2 cents worth, 92 Winne v6 gen. 6000gross on door as I remember it was just under that with me out and not loaded down just looked at my springs there's still some arch.

Used to work with large compressors stationary and portables when we had heating problems and called for help one of the first things they asked was how much antifreeze,too much doesn't cool as good as plan water but is needed for freeze protection and corrosion. Fan clutch's are hard to check on mine I did everything rodded the radiator which when checked was ok did it anyway + thermostat and fan Clutch I think it was the fan that did the trick. I try'ed a photo tack on the fan clutch not very positive results. With all this done with ac on 100deg day pulling for all its worth its barely over half way on gauge.

They take awhile to cool down leave it on for a 1/2 day or so, on gas sometimes the gas lines need to be purged (full of air) I usually light the stove just to purge the lines then try the refrigerator, if it ain't broke don't try to fix it.

I have the same unit its noisy but doesn't Vibrate to speak of, I would think looking at the mounts also how its mounted in the box. I had a two cyl welder that had a lot of vibration had the rotor balanced took away most of it.

I don't know what a Turbocool is but my unit is the same as yours, inside its mainly the fan noise and some gen noise no vibration outside gen is not the quietest, the ac is a 9000 BTU.

Those bolts mentioned that hold down the AC on mine there screwed down all the way springs fully compressed doesn't look right to me but it doesn't leak even with the roof sag. Interested in Bodybaggers way of doing it and where the foam came from etc and probably can't use the original gasket??

I'll second the last reply there's a separate idler pulley loosen the center bolt and use the jack bolt to tighten the belt couldn't be any easier when you look at it you will see it. No pry bars channel locks skinned knuckles.

Just mark them there's a couple almost the same size, you might think about the timing belt but its more work.

Forgot to mention V6 and not stop and go traffic

I have a 92 Winne some time ago I averaged about10 fill ups came to 13.75 appox last 5 were 15.10 14.08 12.78 15.14 12.75 haven't done anything special just normal tune ups. I have gotten as low as 11 maybe less with bad wind, I do use overdrive as much as possible real light throttle 60 to 65 and less on back roads.

It might have to be set, the rod and lever that comes out the crankcase needs to be full throttle position when unit is off, hold it all the way and tighten the lever to the rod, all the other springs out side would be adj next then tested and you would have to bend one of the tabs. If the rod and lever that comes out of crankcase doesn't try to pull back and close throttle somewhat when running the plastic gear inside need to be replaced Just be prepared to shut it off quick if it trys to over rev.

I like Maineahs response not loosing sleep about it one place I go from under 4000ft to 9000ft in 16 miles mostly 2nd gear about 40 45 mph and 95 deg this time of the year, not sure I want to know the temp it has heavy duty factory cooler. I change eng and trans oil together kind of refreshing trans only get about 2 1/2 qts from trans.

If its similar to mine easy job if you do make changes and the water tank pump and drain valves are under so make it where you can access them.

Mine's a 92 winnie the gen would drop out underneath small floor jack and a block do some measuring so there's enough room to pull it out its not that heavy, MH will have to be on a ramp, the reason I took it out was to get it to run right on a bench and check valve clearance opened the clearance some, I had the idea they were getting tight when hot. The hertz will have to be set a little higher no load on a gen 62-63 hertz and the voltage will be on the high side close to 130 volts both will be lower under load, if thier low it will bog it down starting a load, also a hard start capacitor can be added to the AC I didn't have to do that Mines only a 9000btu unit. Also there's a screw under the carb bowl that can be adjusted needs to be tweeked under different loads

Exhaust leak could be where the down tube connects to tail pipe sometimes can be tightened I had the heads off on mine the manifolds were warped had them resurfaced

Probably not same problem?? one time only with really bad thunder storm I saw some water in the rear close to sink up high I think the pulsation wind and all possibly forcing up out of the traps maybe the vents pressure differentals

No points on mine (electronic' When I choke mine cold pull it all the way out then push it in right as it starts, good luck on the parts might be easer to repair what you have. When I first got mine had two problems the AC was cycling to quick wouldn't allow the hd pressure to drop would bog the gen when I fixed that then I put more hrs on it trying to get it to smooth out on a light load finally using it on a hot day when the ac wouldn't cycle a real hard run, seemed to help it and it didn't have carbon build up had the HD off to check it.