Skydancer2992

Read up on Zuk mod on the Toyota sites (yotatech, toyotanation).

I replaced the bushings and shocks in my driveway. Did not seem too hard despite not having any previous experience. Bilstein shocks and Prothane bushings. Three bushings per spring. One shock was gone and one at 50%. Two bushings worn down to nothing. The result is the Warrior now handles like a sports car (relative to the previous state) - steering tracks tightly in the turns compared to the loosy-goosy version.

I've bought these from the Uhaul store on ebay for my 91 Warrior. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Lug-Nut-Toyota-1-ton-truck-9094201055-/161699168388/

Would the EPA official be John Beale?

When I renewed my insurance I asked the agent (over the phone) if I could raise the insured value. She said we could do a "negotiated value". I named the amount due to improvements I'd made (tires, power supply, solar panel).

Most of my cars are with USAA but they don't do campers. They have a cross agreement with Progressive. I pay about $400 per year but I have a valuables coverage and a negotiated value of $8000. The bill comes from Mountain Laurel Insurance, so I suspect that Progressive is more like an association of insurers than a single company.

The secret to getting the starter out on the 4Runner is to unbolt the tranny dip stick tube. Then there will be room to move the starter forward and down. I use an air ratchet to undo the two bolts holding the starter. The starter for the V6 on the camper has less working room than the 4Runner. Changing that starter will be an accomplishment, like climbing Mt Everest.

Good info. Googling the email address and phone number often reveals other ads and sometimes different prices for the same camper.

Perhaps the fuel pump is mounted high or the inlet is at an upward angle?

Try starting in Neutral. My V6 starts fine in Neutral but not Park.

Have to agree with Vanman, the starter job on the V-6 looks difficult. The torsion bars from the suspension and other obstructions make physical removal tight if not impossible. Lifting the front end by the frame might drop the torsion bars enough to squeeze that starter out. My starter quit starting when in Park and I started looking at how to do the install with my $30 Uhaul starter. Then I realized the camper will start in Neutral. Shifter cable must need adjustment. The newer starters are about 1/4 smaller so maybe the replacement will be easier. The last starter provided by Autozone for my 96 4Runner was the smaller one. I've replaced three starters on the 4Runner over its 372K miles and it is one of the more difficult jobs due to the inaccessibility of the upper bolt.

Weighed my 91 Warrior just before a trip. 3300# rear axle, 2000 # front axles, and then whole camper at 5300. Nobody onboard, no water, minimal propane. At that time, a generator was installed.

I have a 91 Winnebago and like it a lot. Mine was $2500 at a Habitat for Humanity Restore silent auction. Nobody bid on it because it was missing a corner of the camper over the driver cab. The Toyota part has been very reliable. The camper part takes constant attention to keep watertight. If you are handy, don't be afraid of making repairs to the camper. To some folks, these are just old campers and are priced according to their expectations. Good deals are out there. If you see one in a driveway, inquire about it. Several owners have found their campers that way.

I owned an 85 4Runner with a 5 speed manual. The engine seemed underpowered for that vehicle. Peddle to the metal when accelerating. On a 5000# camper with an automatic transmission draining 10% of the power at high altitude with less O2 for the engine, just be patient and pull over for to let the less patient ones proceed. The yotatech guys say the engine does well at high RPM.

For the gearheads. Link was recently restored. http://www.enginebuildermag.com/1999/05/rebuilding-the-toyota-3-0l-v6/

Are you having any overheating issues? The Toyota fan clutches seem to be reliable.

Maybe you could make the Phoenix into a flat bed truck with sleeper compartment.

Check the aluminum extrusion above the window - the one holding the bulkhead and roof together. Make sure the vinyl insert in the center is not cracked.

Technology leads to dependence. A friend of mine, an engineer, was at a convenience store when a young lady walked in, crying, that the battery on her remote key had died. She coudn't get back in to her car. He pointed out that her key was still a physical key and could open the door.

Seemed like the newer water pumps had an extra stud. I recall having to remove one to make the new part fit. Also, the smallest bit of old gasket left on the engine can cause a leak. I used a solvent the second time to get every last bit off.

Futon mattress. Comfortable and folds in half. In practice, never need to open up to the cab below.

Try tightening the valve cover bolts slightly. The gaskets may have a little bit of shrinkage. Worked for me when my 3.4 developed an oil leak from the passenger side valve cover.

For the 22RE, the anti-drainback valve is important reduce engine wear. If I used a FRAM, on my old 85, the oil light would illuminate on startup for about 5 seconds and the engine would sound rough and then pick up RPM when the oil light extinguished. No oil light with NAPA or OEM filters. The Toyota dealer usually had a good deal on multiple filter purchases. For the six cylinders, no issue with FRAM but I prefer NAPA, Purolater or OEM.