WME

The Ford starter solenoid is NOT a correct sub. It is not rated for continous duty. You will need a volt meter not just a test light. Start at the alternator side of the isolator and check voltage with the engine running, check v on the engine battery. Check v on the isolator that feeds the house battery. Check v on the house battery they should all be over 14v with the engine running. If the v coming from the isolator is good and the v at the battery is bad then you have a bad battery or bad wiring.

Isolater, especially if it looks like a Ford starter solenoid.

www.truckspring.com Use one that matches what was installed on your Tot

Put airbags back on. They lasted over 15 years, you going to keep it that long? The big killer of airbags is driving then around with 0 lbs airpressure. Other wise check out www.timbren.com

Hook up to an aircompressor set to about 40psi. Get a spray bottle of soapy water and start looking for lleaks. 70% of the time the bags are OK and its the lines or valves that are bad. Whe you get your "transformer Toy" finished check how it sits loaded. Level or a bit tail high and you won't need airbags. If its butt is draging then you need stiffer springs or airbags to make it sit level.

Basic designs for the 21 ft class. Rear bath with couch, or rear bath with 2 captins chairs Rear corner bath with rear kitchen Side bath with rear dinette that makes a queen size bed Side bath with full time rear bed (not very common)

Composting toilets are readly avaiable all you need is about $1500.00

www.customcommericalwheel.com

The chassis number is part of the VIN, look for something like RN66, RN71, LN56

When your finished with this minor distraction, how about some photo updates on the rest of the rig??

The fuel window thingie has a metal cover holding it on. The cover has a funny shaped hourglass on its side cutout. The fuel level should be in the middle. If you have fuel in the carb then it should start OK. Unless something is wrong with the accelerator pump. You should pump the gas petal to the floor ONE time before starting. This will squirt some fuel into the intake (same as pouring it in) and it sets the choke.

There is "supposed" to be a hose diagram some where in the engine compartment, usually on the underside of the hood. Your carb should have a sight window in the side of the fuel bowl. Check to see if the fuel level is in the middle of it.

The PCV valve sounds OK. Its designed to vent the crankcase fumes into the intake to burn off the nasties. An engine will start and run on the fuel thats in the carb for a couple of minutes. I'm recalling an old memory. IF AAP IS NOT SEATED RIGHT OR TORN IT WILL LEAK GAS INTO THE INTAKE. This floods the engine and makes it hard to start.

Do you have a mechincal pump mounted up front under the top radiator hose. Or the in the tank electric one.?

Ya on the beach the temps will be moderate, so foam on the sides will work. But in the day you are far enough south to get a lot of heat gain through the roof, so the refelectix will help controll it..

The stuff is called Reflectix, Home Depot, Lowes has it in big rolls. It has a moderate R value( R-4 or less), most of its "effect" comes from the foil face reflecting the heat away, from the outside, and the heat back in, in the inside. It does work and I used it as an under the carpet insulator in the cab. I think on the wall and ceiling your choice of the foam would be better. For the best use both on the ceiling. Reflectix first, then the foam, then the ceiling material

Chinooks run a single rear wheel and are OK, its the "homemade" duels that cause all the problem. Modern tires have come a long way the 185x14LT tire will safely support 1800 lb ea. I dont think that your Chinook has 3600 lb on the rear axle.

Best shocks are Bilstein, best bang for the buck Monroe

Weigh it after you have lightened it. 195 LT tires are rated at almost 2100lb ea in single mode. So if the rear axle weight was 3500lb or less (saftey margin 4200lb max, I can add) then you could do away with the duelies and run singles and be much safer

The A/C comes off easy, remove the inside plastic ceiling plate a there should be 4 bolts holding it on remove the bolts and get some muscle on the roof and pull it off. If you cant make a solar oven work up there, get a Fantastic powered vent. They run on 12v, move a lot of air and make sleeping a bunch better in warm places. Removing the oven and stove top is easy too.. You can get a 3 buner stove top if you cant carpenter up a nice suround for a two buner top. I made a storage place under the stove top when I removed my oven, a wok fits nicely there.

general opinion is it wont run a 13.5k A/C but does a 9k just fine. Folks can but the Honda and smaller roof A/C for less than an ONAN genset. I have a 13.5 and an Onan 2.8, I have to turn off the A/C compressor to run a 800w microwave

Two types of refers, a 2 way that works on gas or 115vac. The 3 way works on gas 115vac and 12vdc. If your selector switch only has gas and electric then you have a 2way and you need to run gas on the road. OR you can buy a 12vdc to 115vac inverter and plug in you refer to that. IF you use an inverter you must switch to gas when parked or it will run down your house battery pertty fast.

The OEM timing chain guides are plastic and seem to subject to damage iwhen the chain wears a bit. The after market has chain guides made from steel and they will survive a slack chain better. In any case you talking about problems that happen after 60,000 mi.

On a rack, questionable due to frame limitations. On a trailer no problem, with a proper hitch

On the units that had the axle upgrades its common, but not always. On units with factory hd axle its not common but has happended. Its always the dirver side. If you dont know remove a lug nut from the passanger side and see if it will start on the drivers side. Usually there is a thread of so sticking past the lug nug and you can tell fast.