WME

I done the cam plus other things. End result was 13.7 mpg at 60-65 W/O OD. I used a 270 degree cam from http://www.engnbldr....a-hotlicks.html Also new head with O/S valves and a good 3 angle valve job, an oversized throttle butterfly and a good 2.25 exhaust system It was a little doggie from a standing start up to around 7mph, then things started working. It was much better in the hills, instead of chugging over the top at 40mph I could climb at 55mph. Much better when on the interstate. I think this engine with a 4.88 rear axle and selective use of the OD would have been perfect on a 18ft Raider. I had a 21 ft Escaper, I thought a lot about the 4.88 but because I pull a trailer I decided to not go there. I don't think the OD would work well with the trailer. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/photos/album/932151036/pic/793345559/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc Thats Powder River Pass 9666 ft

What everybody says, plus the top 2 bolts on the bellhousing can be a bugger to loosen.

After the first year, almost every upgrades their converter. For all of your reasons and more. Just go to Ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html;jsessionid=2C7748DBFA887099C572B7B4B968E32E?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=rv+power+converter&_nkwusc=rv+poer+converter&_rdc=1 Again MOST folks like the Progressive converters. WME

Everything 12v is wired to the power panel. The lights, pump, heater, converter AND the battery. When your plugged in to 110v AC the converter makes 12v and sends it to the panel powering everything AND charging the battery. Not plugged in?? Then the battery powers everything thru the panel.

There is an adapter made that is a 5/6bolt adapter with the needed offset for the dually rim. That would help in the tire dept, but still leaves you with 1/2 front brakes.

Never mind holes and positive earth. Some thoughts of a practical nature. Charging batteries in parallel will eventually result in one battery getting the juice and the other slowly losing capacity. I've been using one of these. http://www.ebay.com/...es_Gear&vxp=mtr About once a month when driving I will charge the batteries one at a time, ensuring that both are peaked. Normally it stays in the both position. One other thing I've hooked the isolator up different. The house batteries are hooked to the alternator terminal and the starter battery to the switched side. This way the house batteries get max charge voltage and are really full. The engine starts so easily that truck battery doesn't miss the .5v loss.

West Systems is expensive, but it ranks with Bilstein shocks in you get what you pay for category.

There have been a lots of owners who get confused on the color of wires on the coach battery. You need to do a continuity check on the wires from the relay to the battery. P.S. MOST of the time Black IS NOT Ground

Regular here is 2.99 a gallon and propane is running about 2.25 a gallon

There are 5 used stock 4.88 center sections on Ebay and 8 rebuilt ones with limited slips added. .

You mean like this http://www.ebay.com/...a15c8b4&vxp=mtr [

Its caved in.

A single stage (old Style) regulator can freeze in cool high humidity conditions. Most newer RV use a 2 stage regulator. Check engine oil COLD. A plugged PCV will cause oil to blow out of the dip stick and every questionable gasket.

These guys make some serious stuff. Have a read.http://www.hellroaring.com/index.php

Toyota FSM specs on compression 171 psi, minimum 142, max variation between cylinders 14psi. I'd say your is a little passed the edge. Any oil on the drive way or is it all going out the tailpipe? Oil is cheap however and $1500 buys a lot of oil. Try 20-50w. See how many miles your are getting per qt of oil. In the old days when your engine used a qt every 500 mi it was time to do something.

The cheapest auto change over controller is the one at the end of your arm. Just open one tank and then when the stove quits change them over.

A compression check or better yet a leakdown check, these will tell many things.

The factory tank has a drain plug, replacement tanks may or may not have one

Rule 1 Get a volt meter, learn to us it !!! 80% of the "its broken" electrical questions can be answered before you even post by following rule 1. I'm not against postings but the "wise ones" on this forum are not Physic or Toyhouse mind readers, give us something to go on, if after following rule 1 your stumped. Yes toys are really cute, but they are 20-30 years old. If you don't have mechanical, woodworking and electrical skills BEFORE you buy one, you will need deep pockets. Plan wisely, impulse buying is not a good plan.

There should be a fuse some where. See if there is 12v at the thermostat

Nope, an Optima is an AGM battery. http://www.optimabat.../agm-batteries/

AGM batteries have a different float voltage requirement 13.5v, than a flooded cell (lead/acid) battery 13.2v. You should have the proper charger if you switch over. An AGM also charges faster at a lower voltage than a Lead/Acid.

I've posted this link before, but its hard to find. At this stage in your redo it is a good read. http://www.frugal-mariner.com/Insulating.html

Here are pics of both tanks http://www.propanetankstore.com/

Don't forget McMaster-Carr as a place for parts and stuff. A 6204 Double sealed is $8.72.