WME

This is your Sunrader 4x4 on steroids...https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2012-titan-xd-4400-4x4/

Tourist summer rate $125 a night, after school starts winter rates are $50 a night. Weird Wyoming law if you stay in a hotel or RV park for 30 days your not a tourist. So you don't pay the nightly tourist bed taxes.

As a WAG 75% of electrical problems on an older RV are ground related. Bad splices, corroded connections, dirty grounds. Tail lights, clearance lights, turn signals the list goes on This is why a cheap volt/ohm meter is an important tool to carry, Learn to use it at home, not broke down at the side of the road or a Wal-mart parking lot.

Yah it was an "interesting time". When things started we were running the AC, then went to a 1500w Milk Barn heater 24/7, then added the RV propane heater. As the temp dropped, duct tape and reflixtic became skirting, finally with arrival of - temps I stuck a 200w IR light bulb under the water tanks. That made a warm spot. A couple of wireless thermometers said the tanks were just a bit over freezing, while the rest was usually 25 degrees above outside temp. So the skirting worked. Still 25 degrees above -10 is a cold floor when you need a bathroom break at 0400 in the morning But much better that paying $50 a night at a hotel.

We did something cool/extremely stupid... Built a house during a pandemic with a screwed up supply chain. House was supposed to be done 1 Sept., moved in Dec 7. So 3 months in our Rv with - temps

Yo, Fishmiester did you ever find a good place to winter over?

Volt/ohm meter time. This is the MOST IMPORTANT tool you can have in an older RV, Harbor Freight $7. The ac side of a refer is just a heater element, easily replaced. Check your with the ohm function. Here is what one looks like...https://www.ebay.com/itm/265113822737?epid=1623559137&hash=item3dba03e611:g:vmEAAOSwhGxga5ej Converter information ...https://www.bestconverter.com/ They have upgrade kits and complete replacements

You checked the fan and housing, BUT those are the most common areas of problems. Mice love to build nests there, also the cowl outside air inlet can plug up with leaves and crud. Next check and see if the dash control levers are moving the flaps they are connected to the full distance. I had a broken clip on a cable and the control flap was only moving about 1/2 of it's designed travel. Remember the AC was designed to cool a pickup cab, not a house. Many owners hang a curtain in the walk through to reduce the space the AC has to cool.

Victory😁 Check the ignition post voltage with the engine running.

Yes, what refer?? Most RV refers run on propane/115v AC. There some that have a 12v heater, but that's only for traveling, as it's less effective than the 115v or propane If your refer has a 115v AC input then the converter has nothing to do with it running.

Long very interesting read...Note conclusion that red and green antifreeze do not play well together.

Ive used the dots before, they work great. Just get the blinker relay right.

Make up another ground wire, (14 ga or so). Connect it from the house battery - to the truck chassis. See what happens with the ignition key. If the winch is grounded, no harm/no foul. If the winch is floating then this should let the isolator work correctly.

Your basic wiring looks OK. This is a 30 min problem for someone who speaks Electron, over the internet small steps are needed The small red wire to the yellow plugs is the on/off signal wire to the isolator. Check the voltage according to my earlier post. The diagram I posted is for a 3 post isolator it is grounded through the case. Your 4 post just adds a separate ground. Ground is Ground doesn't matter how it happened, just that it does.

any help ?...http://strategiccontentmarketing.co/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/cheap-dual-battery-diagram-in-dual-battery-isolator-wiring-diagram.jpg

I hate long distance electrical problems. But on to the next step, the small red wire on the isolator should be a switched 12v. Ignition off, engine off, there should be 0v on the terminal. Ignition to run and engine off, there should be 12v on the terminal. Ignition to run and engine running there should be 12v+ on the terminal. Let us know.

Here is a company that makes mini tankless water heaters for renters and Van people. For $150 it might be something for Toy houses in need of a WH. https://forueeappliance.com/

Just check with your local RV repair shops. Also check with local roofers. EPDM is used on many commercial buildings with flat or small slope roofs. My local RV shop charges $150.00 a linear ft to install an EPDM roof, so a 21ft would be around $3150

Roll-on rubber roofing can be an DIY job or easy for a pro shop. https://www.smartrving.net/best-rv-roof-coatings/ Rubber roofing is a different animal, it's typically a pro level job. https://flairdistribution.com/products/epdm-60-mil-rv-rubber-roof-10-wide-choose-your-length-10-100ft-flair-distribution?variant=40609223180447

Ive used a catch can before. Ended up with about 2/3 cup of fluid every 3000mi oil change. I don't know if the engine heat would boil off the water, but for sure it didn't get into the engine.

Do you march to a different drummer, here's something to check out. AND it's 4wd too. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1946-chevrolet-4x4-short-bus-restomod/

Use a separate battery charger on the house battery, charge it for 24 HR. Measure voltage as soon as you remove the charger. Measure the voltage again after 12 HR. 13.5 v + off charge, 12.5v + after 12 HR of rest. That will test the battery. The alternator is a simpler test 13.7v + when engine is running.

Do you have a solenoid isolator (35mm film can) or a diode type (box with fins)?? AGAIN check battery polarity.

This is hard over the net, but here goes... 1. Get a cheap voltmeter, https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html 2. Check the polarity of the house battery. "NORMAL" color code does not apply to RV's. "Standard" RV colors are white is ground and black is +. House batteries are often hooked up wrong. Using the ohm function on the meter will let you check the ground 3. Find the click, if the batteries are wired OK then you may have a bad circuit breaker. Most of them in the 12v wiring are auto reset so you get the clicking when they reset and then trip again and again. Most of them look like this, with a metal or plastic case. https://www.delcity.net/store/Auto-Reset-Circuit-Breakers-!-12-volt/p_198669

Broken/jammed transmission shifter cable. It goes from the throttle body to the transmission.