WME

:ThumbUp:

Yup about the stackups. Most of the companies have full time GPS monitoring of their trucks. The system will send out a nannygram to the boss if the truck goes much faster than the company speed limit.

OK Would Mobil Oil be a quality enough source, like when they talk about a -5w oil???? https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Oil_Viscosity_Lower_Than_0W.aspx http://www.widman.biz/English/Tables/J300.html

There's independents who haven't figured it out yet. But the company truck are running at 65-68 or so on the interstates. Secondary road speed limit is 65mph and the trucks run the same 65-68 on them . The trucks from Swift are now running at 62mph and make a great drafting partner if you don't mind a little buffeting. . It sure is different when one of them drafts you

Anything getting less than 10mpg is going slower these days. Even here in Wy the days of 75 mph 18 wheelers are past,

If its not installed yet check out here....http://www.snydersrvrefrigeration.com/

Well for another thought, look for a company that does pickup beds

On my Toy the front bushings were smaller in dia than the rear ones. They all went in with a small hammer and some grease, easy to do. Jacking things up and supporting things properly took longer.

I think you will also find the handling much better and that it actually rides smoother because the springs arn't crashing around. Were the wrong size bushings for the front of the springs ?

Hope you have the steps memorized, cause you will be doing it again WD-40 is a very poor OIL, does other things well though I ve just soaked the bearings in Mobil 1 overnight. The bearings are called oilite bearings they are designed to soak oil into them. If all else fails http://www.ebay.com/itm/Telco-232651-Blower-Motor-12DC-Heat-Pump-Furnace-Suburban-RV-Camper-Fan-Heater-/300951260591?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461217cdaf&vxp=mtr

The bigger the blob, the better the job. Also applies when welding

Before you think this is all BS and a waste of your time, you have gained about 10% of useful charge

SAE J 300 DOES define a 0w oil and it is different than a 5w.

So the 0W-20 Castrol I have in my garage is a figment of my mind?

Close but no cigar, still too much of a drop. .5v vs .36v max. Check/clean the grounds. Go to a bigger wire as last choice.

Running a generator past 9:00PM is bad form. Get solar panel and 2 house batteries to be neighborly and warm.

Wow an Origami RV.

Every .1v you lose in the wiring is a .1 less in your battery. You have a limited amount of power to use, so you can't afford to lose any.

Splices??? Bad connectors????? The max v drop for 12v is .36v, so your V at the battery is a bit low. BTW 16 ft of 4ga wire has a max load handling of 50 amps with the .36v drop figured in. So how much current are you pushing?

Don't forget to put a couple of layers under the matress, there is a big heat loss in the bottom of the cab over.

You need a dry place and time to do it right. A quick caulk on the road is OK but it will make things complicated when its time to do it right. Marker lights are an annoying source of leaks too.

With the correct tools a drive shaft is easy, same with brake line and cables. Swaging tools are restively cheap and brake tubing tool are really cheap

Ez Ryder and some Escapers used a stretched frame. The Escaper in my Avatar looks like a 19 ft job, but it is a 21ft with a stretched frame (143" WB)

The biggest toy is 23ft (Ez Ryder). 21ft and 19ft seem to be the common sizes. Sunraders run 21ft and 18ft, with the older 17fter. Anything between 16ft and 23ft is possible

Ebay class B, there several makers of Chinook type MH's. If you go with the Ford V-10 a few more ft wont make a difference in MPG. FWIW I have a 26ft Class A with a GM 7.4L Vortec. When driven at "TOY" speeds it will do 10+mpg. Compared to a Super B there is a lot more room.