WME

Those who are having a saggy roof problem, look at the inside of your camper. Check to see where the counter top is and your cabinets are. I used some hand rail spindles to prop up a saggy roof from the inside. Got some nice turned ones and stained them to match. They looked factory and worked great. I used a small jack to raise the roof a bit and then measured things and cut the spindles to fit. One went on the edge of the counter top and the other longer one on the other side at the end of the couch.

30 min of coffee pot and microwave will use more power than your 165w solar panel will produce in 1 day. A T-105 flooded cell can be safely charged at 10% of capacity, an AGM battery can be charged at 33% of capacity. So t-105 flooded batteries can be charged at 20 Amps, a GOOD controller would let you use around 300w of solar. That much solar would recharge your batteries in about 4 hours after 30 min of coffee pot and microwave, the rest of the day would charge back the balance of your 12v use. Then you would be always charged with out running the engine.

Will it work, yes. Will it do what you want, maybe. So the big question is " What do you want to power with 2 T105s?"

OK more food for thought. Converter 120v AC input, 12v DC output, designed to power your lights and water pump Inverter 12v DC input, 120v AC output, designed to run house hold things, like computers, tv, a small microwave maybe. NOT camper A/C

I'll bet that at 55mph it looks as good as any thing big bucks could buy.

Close but no cigar, unless your computer runs on 12v. The converter ONLY deals with the 12v circuit. The 120v outlets are powered only the RV is plugged into shore power. Try this out, the OUTPUT of the switch is 12v to power the lights water pump and such like. The switch has 2 separate INPUTS, a 12v battery and power from a 12v converter. By moving the switch you change where the 12v for the 12v lights comes from.

NO AIRSHOCKS!!!! The Toyota factory shocks mounts are not designed for the added stress. The airbag is the correct answer. Other lesser options include a new hd spring pack, re-arching your springs and adding an extra leaf. If your mechanically inclined goggle ZUK mod

How do you eat an elephant??? one small bite at a time ,,,, How do you fix a 25 year old Toyota MH???? one small project at a time.

Anything is possible when dealing with stuff the PO did to your rig. BUT the "normal" 3 way rocker switch is set up is Battery, off, converter. What your selecting is the power source of the 12v for the lights. It has nothing to with charging the house battery. Your factory converter should have a 1-3 amp separate charging circuit for use when plugged in to 120v. There should be a charging circuit from the truck alternator to the house battery. With a new modern 3 stage converter you would remove the 3 way switch, hook the converter to the battery and hook the 12 circuit direct to the battery also. You would still need the 12v isolator circuit to charge the house battery from the truck engine

The restriction in the v-6 exhaust is the crossover. If your in a non inspection state have a local shop fab a set of duals. If that wont work then an aftermarket v-8 truck muffler and a 2.5" pipe

Get the actual measurements and go to an RV store. There are several common sized escape hatches used in RVs. PPL rv lists them as "exit vents"

Yep possibly normal. It depends on the floor. My Escaper had the same thing from the factory

A 300 w inverter would run off the cigarette lighter outlet just fine. If you want to wire in a HD socket near the house battery would make things easier. Most of what your trying to power use USB charging cords. There are 12v USB chargers available. These would eliminate the power loss associated with an inverter' I have a dual outlet USB cigarette adapter that has a 1 amp output, that should be enough to do what you want it was less than $14 at Wal-Mart. A couple of adapters, and a couple of 12v outlets and your in business.

Well the mileage should have a lot of bearing on your decision, the PO DOCUMENTED repairs and maintenance is of more importance.

Toyota MHs have 2 separate electrical power systems. The 115v ac powers the electrical outlets, also the roof A/C, TV and the Microwave, if you have one or all. This power comes from the shore power or generator or MAYBE an inverter if the PO installed one, inverters were not a factory installed item. The 12v dc systems powers the lights, water pump, vent fan(s). It gets power from the 12v coach battery. If you are plugged into shore power then the CONVERTER will power the 12v systems and recharge the coach battery. When your driving the truck alternator recharges the 12v coach battery also. At least its supposed to, but on a 20 year old mh who knows what still works

Same as above, but one difference... Fill gas tank and use a fuel stabilizer, STA-BIL comes to mind. An empty tank will rust, Sta-bil is good for 1 year.

Oops for got about regulation. I have a Sunwise MPPT controller and Ive run it for 3 years directly wired to the battery. I have a 200w panel setup, with a 20 amp controller

It would be simpler to just put a 100 amp diode between the battery and the controller.

STOP The pictures you sent have NOTHING to do with solar!!!!! you should have a solar panel (s), a solar controller and battery. That's all you need, no relay required. Some more pictures of the rest of the components please. Lets get this fixed fast

I'm not sure about a trailer. If you make a wide trailer how do you get it under a jacked up camper? The wheels would wider that the jack stands. Is it really that much harder to drive around piggy backed than just the truck

Why?

Yep that's what a Toyhouse is for.

Paint the backside of the bumper with a zinc rich paint. The zinc will self heal and help prevent rust from starting from backside.

You can have quite, comfort, room and not so great mpg OR you can have better mpg and less speed, room and comfort. But you cant have room, comfort, speed and good mpg. Thats just the way things are in the rv world, you set your priorities and live with the result.

This has come up before and in many cases the problem/condition is traced to the rear brake proportioning valve. It was designed for a 1/2 ton pickup. Not a 6000lb motor home. Go to the engine, transmission, suspension section and find the pinned thread "Brakes LSVP" start reading, its a long one. But you should begin to under stand your problems.