WME

A new battery wired wrong can cause this

Looks like you have done about the best you can. Peanut gallery thoughts, can you drive the old mount bar out of the shock?? Know anyone with a mig/tig welder, just extend the bar.

Full on John Deere farmer mode. Longer bolts and 2ea 1/2"x2" pipe nipples cut in half. PS I'm 5'8"

Reflextix is good stuff, it's a bit of insulation and a heat reflector, with a lot of the heat coming in through the roof it's a good plan. Also while you at the reflextix thing, remove the front seats and carpet. A single layer of reflextix everywhere, a double layer over the transmission and under the driver's seat (cat converter and exhaust, lots of heat) then reinstall the carpet and seats. This is a personal thing, I raised the driver seat 1" or so. Makes getting in a bit harder but helps eliminate the driving a pillbox effect

OOPS brain fade I got my old Rvs muddled up. Some had only a 15 amp plug and some had a 30 amp plug. Simple 50 to 30 amp adapter...https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Plug-Adapters/Mighty-Cord/A10-5030FBK.html If you have a 15 amp plug then you will need the 50 amp Y to 2x 15 amp plug... https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=50+amp+male+to+15+amp+female+adapter&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=50+amp+to+30+amp+adapter&_osacat=0

Are the bolts loose or is the bracket loose in the shock?? Loose bolts?? can you post a picture of a bolt. Loose bracket in the shock, bad shock

.https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-toyota-chinook/

Sure as long as you use a proper 50 amp to 15 amp adapter. The adapter is hard to find, you may end up with a 50 amp Y to 2 15 amp connectors. Some people think that plugging into a 50 amp circuit you will push 50 amps into your RV...NOT so. The RV draws the power it needs at the time. If your plugged into a 15 amp or a 50 amp circuit and all your running is a couple of lights your power draw will be just a couple of amps

What group size is your deep cycle battery or Amp Hours? For the very best power the batteries should be the same size and same maker. AND with a build date within 6 months. Variations to this will result in less power, BUT things will still work Boondock rthoughts, some are in the Duh catagory😁 A smaller load is the same as a bigger battery, replace all your light bulbs with LED bulbs. 10 new led bulbs use less power than 1 old style incandescent bulb. A propane RV heater is a marvelous thing, but they are a power hog. So cool/cold weather requires more more battery. Example my setup is 280w of solar, Mppt controller and 230ah of battery. In 50 deg weather and my wife using her CPAP machine at night I use 30% of battery capacity. My batteries are fully recharged before 4 pm the next day 50w solar is an extend a stay thing. Instead of batteries being dead after 3 days boondocking, you can go 5 or 6 days. Being frugal with your power use a 100w panel will do. If your a power guy (computers, TV, cell phone games, CPAP machine) 200w of solar and 200ah of batteries is needed for perpetual motion. Old Skool rule 1AH of battery will need 1w of solar. With a normal lead acid deep cycle cell battery max safe discharge level is 50%. Here's a chart... vertical side is life cycles, bottom line is % of discharge. This chart is for lead acid batteries. Other types (AGM, Gel, Lipo) have different charts

In my previous life, I discovered this Velcro. It is 2 sided and sticks to itself. It is SO useful. https://www.restockit.com/velcro-one-wrap-ties-and-straps-num-vek189755?pid=29332&source=IAxImpactRadius&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=IR

Now you know why previous owners are so disliked. 1. GET A VOLATMETER. Harbor Freight has a cheap $5 digital that is very good. 2. The 70 amp box only has a 20 amp breaker in it. That's about normal for a main feed. Do you have A/C, micro wave, electric booster for your water heater?? 3. Before you power things up, follow the wires and see where they go. Label the battery end of wires. Where do the wires from the 70 amp gray box go? s there a 110v AC sub panel somewhere?, it should have 1 or 2 circuit breakers. Do any of the battery wires go to a 12v fuse panel? After you verify that all the wires go someplace and you don't have any dangles, sparkies anywhere then you can start things up and do voltage checks. This is a way simplified diagram for a motorhome... How about 1 big battery instead of 2 little ones??https://www.renogy.com/deep-cycle-agm-battery-12-volt-200ah/. Remember measure 2x

Velcro or magnets?

...https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1987-eldorado-starfire-30-foot-motorhome/

A common true ignition source for a solenoid isolator is the switched wire for the wiper motor.

First things first, yep time for a new isolator. A standard $30 continuous duty isolator will work just as well as the Cole Hersee unit just not as long of a life span and no smart charge. Full on deep end stuff...https://www.hellroaring.com/ Dubois... Cowboy and Ramshorn still on going. Rodeo is Sept... Timber jack Joe is at all the Mountain Man Rendezvous. Welty's is trying to reopen what it will who knows. The big deal now is the National Museum of Military Vehicles. If it had wheels or tracks it's there

You wouldn't recognize Dubois, the billionaires have chased all the mere millionaires out of Jackson and the millionaires have all moved to Dubois🙄

OK Hook all to terminal A. If this gives you good voltage everywhere ...throw the diode isolator away and get a solenoid isolator. Cole Hersee ($$$)makes a smart solenoid isolator, #48530, but it's the best. It will let your 12v converter charge your truck battery.

How about scenario 1.5? Take scenario 1 and add the house battery to it's proper post (#2). Just for grins how about a 2.5? Alternator to A, house battery to A and truck battery to #1 A diode typically loses .7v across it Somewhere in the dark recess of my feeble mind, I seem to recall that some Toyots need a 4 post isolator. The 4th post is the exciter voltage for the alternator.

In the hot rodding world most states has a procedure for dealing with the Johnny Cash thing when you have built a car from many pieces and parts. The state DMV has the ability to issue a state assigned VIN. It becomes the new ID/VIN for the vehicle. If all else fails see if this is possible

Found the FAQ. So here is plan B. Buy the basic unit and run it off a inverter using YOUR batteries. The AC power requirement is 600w Renogy has a 2000w inverter/charger that is lipo comparable. Their 1000w inverter/charger won't do lipo, but does all the others. So a Renogy 200ah AGM and the 1000w inverter charger would be about $700 A Renogy 200ah LIPO and the 2000w inverter charger would be $1600. 200ah translates into about 2400wh

Insulation upgrade. This is full on redneck engineering. I saw an example a long time ago. There is an exterior spray on foam used to uprate older mobile homes roofs. On an older covered wagon Winnie the owner removed all the vents and such on the roof. He build up the openings with frames of 2x2 and 1x2 wood. and sprayed 3+" of the foam on the roof and cut and sanded it smooth Went from a flat roof to one that had slope. Like 3" in the middle and 2" on the edge. Then painted the foam with house paint to give it uv protection. The covers were screwed back on to the painted wood risers. He said the risers were to keep the hatches and vents from being in pockets that would collect rain and leak. Made it quite too. His didn't look too bad, but I have seen some real ugly jobs in older mobile home parks. You mileage may vary P.S. Does the Eco Wave have a real universal battery input so you don't have to buy their name brand extender battery?

Linda you're safe, this one is in England. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-land-rover-101-forward-control/

😁😁

WAG.. The metal box was made at the factory and it has a flanged face. The box was installed from the outside and then the flange was trapped between the frame and the filon outer skin. The door and frame should be removable by unscrewing things. Even then with every thing removed you will need an angle grinder to cut the tin all the way a and remove the box from the inside. IF the flange is not screwed to the frame you should be able to use vice grips to pull the chunks out. The door and the frame should be recyclable. If the install isn't done this way, your screwed and will need to resort to angle an grinder and just hack the hole larger and drag the guts through the new hole.

What size (group number) was the original battery? What size is the box? Have you thought about 2ea 50ah lipos? Instead of a 100ah