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extech

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by extech

  1. i thought the glass was just glued to the frame, and the rubber holds it against the frame. no need to cut the weld
  2. i never cared for the look of the interiors in the first place. i prefer a personal touch
  3. so take a piece of wire and connect it to the ground at the brake light. other end to outer connection to t.s. bulb. flash?
  4. got a test light? point on the center contact, touch the aligator clip to the mounting screw, ground wire connection, or scratch the paint under the light to check for power
  5. safety glass won't work --too thick to put the rubber keeper back in. i just did this repair when my bubble window cracked. had to get a pretty big piece of polycarbonate because of the width. not too hard to cut
  6. oooh i see you have the lovely brown plaid as original. seats the same? the door panels are just covers over the stock stuff.
  7. if that was holding the airflow meter, just use a nut and washer where it was, or just leave it off
  8. so what's the part in your hand by the bolt? the tube nut and line should be available at say napa.
  9. and then you can find out if valves got bent
  10. is the steering column disconnected at the top of the box? if so you should be able to lift it out
  11. just realized you have taken the hoses off the tubes, so you can use a box end wrench to loosen the flair nuts. 6 point would be best
  12. that hose needs replacing, and yes you can use the other type of clamp. the crow bar was to pry the ragjoint from the box. where the o ring is. my steering box has a o ring in the same place
  13. yes, remove the bolt holding the line bracket. as stated take the line nuts loose from the box. mine is also manual, and i forgot about the hose clamps and line nuts
  14. if it's a 4 cylinder, there is no belt. it is chain driven, and if the chain broke there's carnage
  15. if it is coming from an 84, someone added it to that rig as 84s did not come with duals. if you can look at the rig before pulling the axle you can get an idea of what is needed
  16. i bet you torsion bars are shot. that makes the front end bang on bumps. new shocks all the way around would help alot too
  17. yes 2 lines one high pressure (in) 1 low pressure (out). no drain plug. have something available to plug the low pressure hose to keep most fluid in the pump. hose with clamp is low pressure yes bleed steering after rebuild
  18. doable, but you also have the 2 fluid lines. going back together isn't much trouble. you will need to bleed the system afterwords, but no biggy
  19. i think you are seeing power steering fluid, not trans fluid. sometimes they are used interchangeably
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