Gulfstream Greg

87 is fuel injection? Could be your injector pump. And ya, cold water on hot is a no no. Crack city! Sometimes fuel pump noise can telegraph and seem like the noise is from some where else. Your check engine light on? Sounds like a fuel problem. To eliminate electrical go to home depot, lowes, OSH or your local hardware store and buy one of those voltage testers that detect voltage just by sticking the probe into the outlet. Just put it on a plug wire and have someone crank the engine and it should flash or beep. If it does not flash or beep then there is a problem with ignition. Could be the coil, as it gets hot it drops voltage. When it drops dead pull a plug and see if it's wet. Wet no spark, dry no fuel.

Here is a link to the antenna platform I installed on our rig. I have an ATAS100. Uses a UHF mount. I do not run it when in motion on the RV, only when parked. I do run it on my saab when mobile though. I do not have an aluminum roof, plywood and rubber. Made some nice contacts into Japan on 10m last time I used it on the RV. I do run a dual band Diamond super gainer on the roof, built a custom spring for that. Here is the link http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2189

F350 or F250 4x4 with the power stroke 7.3l diesel.

What length is your motorhome? How much overhang in the rear axle to bumper?

There are several search engine hijackers. They usually get installed on your PC when you download and install free software. They can be difficult to remove. Even system restore might not work. I will run some security checks on the site but most likely its not here where the problem is. Download the free version of malware bytes and run a scan.

My tanks are a nylon plastic material and glue or epoxy will not stick. The pipes that attach to the tanks are ABS. Is the leak the actual tank, the pipe or where the pipe inserts into the tank? I knocked off my valves one day then ran over them. And after putting it all back together it leaked where the abs inserted into the tank fitting. Problem was I put it together when it was cold and so the tank flange was not soft enough to squeeze down onto the pipe. Also if that is where the leak is there might now be debris between the two and you will have to take it all apart and clean it well then put it back together. Heating the tank flange with a hair dryer on high then tightening the hose clamp.

I think some of those gas detectors are date coded as to when they don't work very well after that date so check that out. I might also note that when we had our 4x4 sunrader it was located below one of the bench seats and once in awhile a stray foot would put it in test mode. Ours was original (1986) and seemed to work but not sure. I think it went off once in a while from dog farts. The one I have in our present rig is date coded.

A ground from the battery to the closest chassis point would be good also. DC current acts much like water through a pipe. The smaller the pipe the less flow. Also DC flows from negative to positive direction, not pos to neg as many think. I agree with Maineah about the voltage drop from a solid state isolator. Remember though that both the starting and coach circuit would see that drop so is it relative. The question here is the drop at the coach batteries. I'm still not clear what isolator he is using. And what the voltages are on all legs of the isolator. And what voltage of each battery is sitting at disconnected. And yes those auto circuit breakers have small terminals so even though they can be rated at high amperage they really have no flow rate, again the water pipe comparison. Anyhow most likely it's connector and wire size causing it unless one of the batteries is bad.

Nice job on the mods! I do though disagree on full time charging with the modern solid state converters. The smart chargers are designed to float charge. Been float charging my RV AGM for over 5 years now. Besides my rv I also have a battery in the house for my ham radio station. I use an IOTA converter there with a 3 stage smart charger on that battery. I do though need clean DC power. And the older converters are all half wave rectifier circuits, really bad for any electronics.

Calculating voltage drop is a tricky calculation. Current load on the end of the run (battery needing a charge and current flowing into the battery) is part of the calc. Someone correct me if I am wrong. But if your battery is fully charged IE both are at the same voltage say 6.8 volts each then the voltage will be high but if they are being charged (because they are at a low voltage) and current is flowing into the batteries then the voltage will show low. In other words high current low voltage, low current high voltage. Maybe I have that backwards but my testings show high current low voltage. I think #4 all the way to the isolator and bypass the breaker at the old location. But I would have a fuse or breaker at both ends (batteries and isolator) reason being that line is always hot. If there is a short two breakers protect the isolator alternator side and the battery side. As a test separate both batteries and do a voltage test. Both should be exactly the same or real close. A 12 volt battery at 12.7 volts is considered 100% charged. A battery at 12.5 volts is considered 90% charged and at 12.06 volts 50% charged. Consider that when looking at voltages. It might be that they just are not fully charged. If you disconnect (or engine off) the batteries at the isolator what voltages do you see at the batteries and at the end of the wire at the isolator? That will tell you your true voltage drop. And you say the batteries are using the same ground as before, what is that exactly?

Maybe re-install firefox?

Nice installation. I can't live without my backup camera.

What are the new batteries at the new location using for ground, the isolator does not care? Also disconnect the batteries and see what the voltage is. You might have a bad battery. And are the batteries the same? By pass the auto reset breaker in the old compartment. I would also add a breaker to just right after the isolator and one at the new battery location for safety. Your wire runs are a considerable distance from the isolator and converter. Chances of a short on those runs becomes higher. Just takes a bit of road shake making a wire rub against something. Big gauge wires set things on fire! I think those breakers are available up to 75 amps.

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Here is quick answer (sorta), its not normal. Everything should still be powered on shore power and everything should be powered from the converters fuses. My guess is someone has done some wiring modifications. Do you have power at the fuses when on shore power?

That is low but if its all the way at the back that is a long ways. Can you tell what the gauge of the wire is? And is the ground side using a wire or the chassis for the complete circuit. For that distance I would think 10 gauge at least but 8 or 6 would be better. And what is the voltage at both sides of the isolator?

If you have the old style 6300 converter it has an internal relay that switches the coach battery out of line and then connects to the charger. When shore power is disconnected it switches the battery back into the circuit. Sometimes those relays fail. Anyhow just another possibility.

Which battery? If its to the coach battery measure the voltage on both sides of your isolator. The mechanical ford types are prone to voltage drops because of carbon build up on the contacts. Bad grounds can also cause problems. You will see some drop in voltage at the coach battery because of the distance and if the wire is too small of a gauge. If its the starting battery check all your grounds. Voltage drops have 3 possibility's Too small gauge and too far a wire run. Bad isolator contacts. Bad connections.

I agree you need a smart charger or new converter with a smart charger built in. If you have the old style 6300 converter they are only half wave rectified. The chargers in them will burn up the battery if left to charge for long periods of time. Also realize that when the old style (6300) converter is in operation it takes the coach battery out of the interiors 12 vdc circuit side and supplies the 12 volts to the circuit. Because of the half wave rectifier design there is a huge amount of AC voltage mixed in. Just take a volt meter and put it into AC mode and read how much AC voltage there is. The AC can be really bad for some of the modern solid state DC devices. I have a modern 7300 converter with a smart charger and leave it plugged in at all times. My battery is an AGM and almost 9 years old with the 7300ru. http://www.parallaxpower.com/7300/7345RU_7355RU%20upgrade%20kit%20contents.pdf There is allot of debate about the charger in the 7300ru but I have to say My battery is still alive after 9 years.

I dislike the mechanical ford style relay type isolator's. They are prone to eventual failure and the contacts can eventually get carbon build-up because they arc every time they connect resulting in a voltage loss across the terminals. I have seen a many of them die. And they are really only an isolator when they are not in the closed position. When they are closed (operating) they put both the starting battery and the coach battery in parallel electrically, no longer isolated. I have never seen a dead solid state isolator but have heard about a couple dead ones, unverified, the exact circumstances unknown.

OK turned off ads for the moderators. Sorry guys. I discontinued donations for the site cause there were non for along time. You know everyone likes free right? Just footed a $750 bill for the next 3 years. And that's just part of it besides my time also. So all I gotta say is if you want a free site then you can put up with a few ads. I appreciate all the hard work you moderators do for the site and our members, and I am sure our members will ditto that. If anyone wants to opt out as a moderator just say so and I will make that happen. I might also note that besides the discussion board I also offer a FREE classifieds along side the board that also costs money to operate. Perhaps a payed member group could be created. In other words a small fee per year and no ads for that payed member. Just a thought! So I gotta say, anyone know any other discussion boards with no ads? How about yahoo, any ads there and do any of those owners or moderators get anything from yahoo?

No ap needed. The boards software will automatically detect a mobile device and restructure accordingly.

I've had one in both my motorhomes and my f350 dump. In my present motorhome I have a 70 degree field of view camera located up just below the three rear running lights looking down and back.. It can see about 50 feet behind and it can see my tail lights and bumper. The high vantage point gives a really great distance perspective for anything behind you. I can actually back up within an inch of something instead of wondering how close I really am. I also have the camera being fed with a switch for power instead of the reverse lights. That way I can turn it on at anytime. I do though plan to also feed power to the camera via a relay that will be powered from the reverse lights also. I also plan to be able to power my reverse lights directly from the cab from a switch. Just takes a bit of trickery with a relay and diodes.

Mostly the warning system is in place for those who are uncivil user's. In other words being a jerk to other users in an uncivil manner etc.. Or the posting of inappropriate material etc.. I don't care what anybody discusses or their personal beliefs about any subject manner. I do care that every member of this board operates in a civil manner and treat each other in a civil manner. That said, with 6000 members and almost 50000 posts no one has ever received a warning for being uncivil. But there have been some close calls. It is hoped that at some point Invision Power Services will include the option to remove the warning points label that you all see below your avatars. As Linda said, only you as a user can see your warning points.No one else except admin and our moderators can see that number. The warning system was activated to give moderators a tool to deal with unruly members. It has nothing to do with free speech. If IPS fails to give us a switch to turn off the warning display then I will eventually remove it via a template modification.