Gulfstream Greg

Enough

Sorry to take so long to get back about your avatar. I did not delete or change it directly. I had to re-build convert avatars that had been uploaded when the system was version 3.1 and earlier. So my best guess is something went wrong during that process. Explain in detail what your avatar looked like and I will see if I can find it in the uploads.

Here is a link to whats going on. It explains it better than I can http://peter.upfold.org.uk/blog/2013/01/15/cleaning-up-the-ip-board-url4short-mess/

Found it I think, injected into /forums/cache/skin_cache/cacheid_1/skin_global.php IPS will hopefully be doing the upgrade as the automatic upgrade failed. I will keep all informed so that we can test after completion.

I have made no progress in finding the problem. The site is due for an upgrade so I will soon be re-uploading all the files. If it continues after that I will have to have Invision Power Services look into the data base.

Having had an 86 Sunrader I had similar problems. Can't remember if there were two separate circuits but the lights run daisy chain style. In other words from one light to the next. I also remember that the actual connections at the lights consisted of the wires pushed into a tension type connector and after time that connection became corroded. So one bad connection killed any lights down stream. It will always be a problem unless you use some anti oxidant after you clean everything up. But even still those style lights are give you trouble some day in the future. You might consider moving up to LED and never worry again about corroded bulb contacts. I never did convert the sunrader but I did with the Gulfstream. On the Sunrader I cleaned up where the wires inserted into the lights tension connectors then soldered the wires to the connector. I then used anti oxidant grease where the bulbs contact the sockets. Every once in awhile I still had to get the ladder and wiggle one or two bulbs to get them working. Reason I did not do leds on the Sunrader is because at the time those type of replacements were expensive and over the budget. LED running lights are much cheaper now. Buy a couple extras though so that you have some extra lenses.

Can you post an example so that I can test the link.

Very Cool !!

system restricts image size to 8000 kb. You can have 15 images per post. Might be something weird about the pics or they might be too big.

I know of someone looking for a fuel pump bracket for a 77. I will forward this post to them.

You have to click on the upper right button "Follow this topic". If it's still not working post back here so I can take a deeper look.

I would recheck your grounds, make sure they are actually grounded back to the battery even if you are using the chassis as the return. Just sounds like high resistance in a ground somewhere. Not sure what the relay would be doing, time to trace its wires.

Here is the schematic. Typical normal isolator for toyota. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=997

Yes but what kind of diode? The e terminal is now a direct short to ground.

About 30 miles into a trip battery icon and transmission over heat light started coming on intermittently at first then eventually stayed on. Thought it was strange that the trans high temp also lit up. Pulled over and ran some voltage checks. Note that I am using a solid state isolator. At idle I had 14 volts on all the isolator terminals including the exciter terminal.But after increasing rpm the lights would come back on and voltage would drop to nominal battery voltage. Luckily we were convoying with two vehicles and made a run to a nearby auto parts store and got a new alternator. 30 mins later it was installed and I had a 14 volt charge. So off we went. Some time later I realized that my charge gauge (tach dash) was looking like it was on the low side. A few miles further and the needle dropped even lower. So I found another spot to do some investigating. I now had no voltage on the exciter terminal. The power feed to that exciter terminal is fused and I found the fuse to be blown. Replaced the fuse and it blew again. So I had to move the alternator cable to the starting battery terminal and the alternator was happy. Since we headed to a rv park with shore power I was not worried about charging the coach battery.. So I have to eat crow because sometime ago I said that solid state isolator's never die. I have not investigated the isolator to see exactly what failed. The exciter terminal appears to be shorted to ground. I have searched high and low for an actual schematic of the isolator internal components but have had no luck.

OK folks, sometime yesterday the data base started throwing driver errors. So I had to do a restore 24 hours back. So that of course means that some posts might be lost. My apologies.

Sad news here. We had to put down our beloved Lady Bug. Had a great 14 years with her. She will always be with us.

Should be a max psi on the side of the tire!

Sounds like a bad pvc. But excessive crankcase pressure because of a broken ring can cause oil to blow through the pvc. Ya gotta get a good reading on that one low cylinder. A screw in gauge that uses a flexible hose.

I run mine at 65 to 80 depending on how many tanks are full and cargo load. I have a gauge up front and an air pump so I can adjust them from the cab. I know many have their bags on separate lines and fill them at different pressures to level the rear. I also have air shocks and keep them at around 40 to 60 pounds. My rear bumper used to drag at every driveway, now its rare to drag.

An air lock diff is just meant to be used under certain circumstance. They can actually cause an axle break under the wrong situation with stock axles. So if you decide to go with a locker consider also upgrading the axles. You might consider a limited slip which will give you better rear traction at all times and might keep you from getting stuck. Also being a 4 wheeler myself one important tool is a high lift jack. But you need bumpers that can be jacked on with the high lift. Stock bumpers are too weak.

One switch on the dash to turn on both the mon and camera. Being able to just turn it on to see whats going on back there is a nice advantage. You would of course have to run a power wire from the dash back to the camera.

Ours has two cats inline. 1991. Installed a PACESETTER - TFX PERFORMANCE KAT-BACK EXHAUST SYSTEMS It fit perfect and sounds great!

Hi Mike It's lag bolted through the brackets that straddle the sides. You can see the brackets in one of the pics before I drilled the holes. My framing is square tube aluminum and the lags screw into the top roof frame through the side. Hope that makes sense. I have a plastic conduit that runs from underneath the coach up the back along side the ladder. I bring the coaxes up through the bottom into the cargo space under the rear dinette seat next to the refrigerator. I can then pull them out to the table for HF rig connection. I have a Yaesu 8800 under the dinette seat with cat 5 cable running up to the cab for the remote head and speaker. I can easily also remote it to the table if needed. I plan at some time to put in an access door from the outside to the cargo space under the seat, that way I will be able to setup outside if needed. I use anderson powerpole for all my power connections so everything is interchangeable.

I read that part