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Jed's got it. Lay down foam to cover sharp edges and give smooth appearance. Then cover with something. Im using Sailrite's stretchy headliner fabric.

It’s still a salvage vehicle. Your insurance company would submit the VIN to places like carfax. Best to disclose this information up front to any potential buyer. They will likely do a carfax on the vehicle before buying. I know I would. As far as what it’s worth. That’s between you and the buyer. You’ve already received a good chunk of money from insurance. Set a low price and it will probably go fast.

So my 1991 that I rebuilt and put on the road in the fall of 2020 (in Maine a state that does not provide titles for anything 95 and under hence no salvage title) was valued by my insurance company at 14,500.00 in the fall of 2022 when I got off the road for 5 seconds and ran it through a stand of alders for 5 seconds at 50 miles per hour. I kept the rig for a buy back of 3k and spent a week to getting it back in shape and pocketed the balance. I have put 25 thousand miles on it since. Just returning from a six month trip to Florida and back. State Farm would not send an adjuster to look at the rig as they considered it a specialty vehicle so I hired an independent adjuster at a cost of six hundred dollars. The claim was settled through the internet with pictures and the money was wired into my bank account.\ My yearly payment for the full coverage policy is 240.00. Includes Towing and Roadside Assistance. My rig was valued at 14.500 two years ago. https://maine.craigslist.org/rvd/d/rockland-v-roof-repair/7750362892.html

1/4 pvc from home depot in 4x8 sheets use marine adhesive to stick together. https://maine.craigslist.org/rvd/d/rockland-v-roof-repair/7750362892.html

Solved. Replacing the 80a fuse link I'm sure was the main culprit, but once I checked all the fuses and wires and put everything back together it fired right up and is now working normally. Oh the life we live driving these 40 year old fragile little birds.

Thanks Linda! To follow up: On inspection I noticed that the 80a fuse link in the box near the battery was in rough shape. So I replaced it, and the motor fired right up. So at least I know it's not the fuel pump. Good news. Bad news: as soon as I try to move it instantly quits. I am assuming this is electrical of some sort. A short somewhere? I will continue on, now checking all fuses and wires that I can.

You don't need to be a mechanic to check the trouble codes. Might give you a clue what the problem is. Here are really good instructions Toyota Tech - Diagnostic Trouble Codes (4crawler.com) Linda S

Fuel was half full. I am not a mechanic. But will do a bunch of checking today before I have it towed to a shop. It sounds like fuses and fusable links are the first thing to check. Also.... the last time we got stuck on the road we towed to a shop and they put in a new/used fuel pump. I will check to see that this pump is still working.

so was your tank low on fuel? otherwise you were not experiencing vapor lock since your fuel pump is in the fuel tank submerged in fuel

Thanks Fred. Appreciate you!

MOTORTREND disagrees with you.

No backfire ever. Was running pretty good.

experience any backfire before this problem?

vapor lock does not happen to injected vehicles

You could be vapor locked. The conditions you described, hill, stop and go, frequent on/off are all contributing factors. Google “vapor lock” for suggestions to clear the line.

Thanks. Four cyl four speed.

it's not obvious that there is no fuel. same could be said for spark. pulling a sparkplug and laying it on a good ground is an easy way to check. is it a 4 or 6 cyl

Hello. It's been too long. We have a 1986 Sunrader 21'. 4 cyl 4 speed EFI 22RE motor with 100k miles. We encountered a construction zone backing up traffic on a steep hill this weekend. I was too far into it to bail and ended up having to cold start a few times as the traffic moved one car at a time. We finally made the top of the hill, but it took a lot of high revs, parking brake and clutch work to get there. There was a funny smell, but nothing 'burning' or on fire, no smoke. Once up top we stalled and could not get it to start again. It cranks but obviously not getting fuel. Tank is topped up. New/used fuel pump installed last summer. Has worked fine since. Any suggestions are much appreciated. I have been diving deep into threads, and it seems like the various fuses are a good place to start. The EFI fuses are notoriously convoluted. Thanks in advance. RIck

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192885879988 There’s no reason you should be disassembling that connector. The lock cylinder is the only thing you need to remove. That can’t be fixed. You need to order new through someplace like rock auto or this one from eBay if it’s still available.

I am pulled the back side of my ignition off my 78 toyota. When I pulled it apart from back of lock the black piece fell out along with two screws and some ball bearings. I fit the ball bearings back in but I'm not sure where the springs go. Has anyone dealt with this. I am just trying to get a key made of the ignition switch

I wouldn't want a used brake drum. Look here, plenty to choose from. Right ones say dual rear wheels 1988 TOYOTA PICKUP 2.4L L4 Drum | RockAuto Linda S

p.s. ask for full floating axle

don't know where you are, but in rancho cordova ca. there are some recyclers that may have it. european motors comes to mind, and they ship

I do have the 3 handhold wheels. I know the brake drums arent part of the rearend. But thats what a few places i calll ask what rearend i had. Thank you for the info.

Your brake drum is not part of your rear-end. It's your hub. That six lug axle is from an 86 or newer truck do the wheels have 3 hand holes, most common,or 6. Go to Rock Auto. Drill down the truck model but put in 1987. Search brake drum and some of them should say for dually wheels or WT model. That's what you need Linda S