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Tail Light Conversion


flatspin

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Apologies if this has been covered fully before but I've been unable to find the answer.

The tail lights on my Sunrader (the 1400s) are fully functional, but between the lenses and the oxidation on the reflectors, just not as bright (nor as quick to light) as more contemporary units.

I've been considering a full replacement to a modern LED light set from Bargman---perhaps doing some fabrication in aluminum to fit the smaller modern set into the larger opening in my rig. I've also seen LED bulb replacements and I expect I could find some new lenses with some online effort.

Anyone have a great answer/approach to an upgrade or, alternately, ways to get the most out of the existing assemblies? I've tried polishing the reflectors, for example, but with minimal success.

thanks!

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The tail lights on my Sunrader (the 1400s) are fully functional, but between the lenses and the oxidation on the reflectors, just not as bright (nor as quick to light) as more contemporary units.

I've been considering a full replacement to a modern LED light set from Bargman---perhaps doing some fabrication in aluminum to fit the smaller modern set into the larger opening in my rig. I've also seen LED bulb replacements and I expect I could find some new lenses with some online effort.

I rebuilt the 1400 surface mount triples on my 1981 by purchasing 2 new 1400 recess mount doubles and scavenging all of the interior parts out of them and using the new lenses. I did away with the backup light in the old triple and rewired them to have 2 park 2 brake 1 turn on each side. World of improvement.

http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/Rear_Lights/

As you have found out. Bargman (the company who bought reflect-o-lite) no longer makes triples of any kind (surface or recessed). so you have only 2 options. Go with something else. Buy new units and cannibalize them to make yours new.

If you decide to go with replacements I would advise you to go with the bargman recessed triples (the wide ones). These are larger than your reflect-o-lite triples so you will need to cut more metal. This is easier than trying to make and seal a mounting plate to use the smaller modern triples.

turtle

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I rebuilt the 1400 surface mount triples on my 1981 by purchasing 2 new 1400 recess mount doubles and scavenging all of the interior parts out of them and using the new lenses. I did away with the backup light in the old triple and rewired them to have 2 park 2 brake 1 turn on each side. World of improvement.

http://www.toymike.c...cs/Rear_Lights/

As you have found out. Bargman (the company who bought reflect-o-lite) no longer makes triples of any kind (surface or recessed). so you have only 2 options. Go with something else. Buy new units and cannibalize them to make yours new.

If you decide to go with replacements I would advise you to go with the bargman recessed triples (the wide ones). These are larger than your reflect-o-lite triples so you will need to cut more metal. This is easier than trying to make and seal a mounting plate to use the smaller modern triples.

turtle

Turtle I have noticed that you have allot of great info and pictures on many different projects and upgrades.I was wondering if you had an index or main page for them as toymike.com only has one link on it.

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Turtle I have noticed that you have allot of great info and pictures on many different projects and upgrades.I was wondering if you had an index or main page for them as toymike.com only has one link on it.

I don't seem to have the time to organize everything from all of my domains into a coherent presentation.

I am a hosting provider and have several colocated Windows and Linux machines (I am bringing this new twin online this week). Top that off with running a 3rd party product support website for a well know HTML authoring software product and I hardly have time for anything else.

In fact, the web page URL that has the tail light pics on was nothing more than a folder with the pics in it when I read this question. I threw together a quick down and dirty table and added some text so that all of the pics could be looked at instead of me just tossing out a half dozen photo links.

The nice thing about it is, once I have a page set up, it is easier to just toss out the link the next time (that is....... if I can remember where it is located).

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I don't seem to have the time to organize everything from all of my domains into a coherent presentation.

I am a hosting provider and have several colocated Windows and Linux machines (I am bringing this new twin online this week). Top that off with running a 3rd party product support website for a well know HTML authoring software product and I hardly have time for anything else.

In fact, the web page URL that has the tail light pics on was nothing more than a folder with the pics in it when I read this question. I threw together a quick down and dirty table and added some text so that all of the pics could be looked at instead of me just tossing out a half dozen photo links.

The nice thing about it is, once I have a page set up, it is easier to just toss out the link the next time (that is....... if I can remember where it is located).

Well first off I appreciate all the info. Second, I look forward to an index when you can get to it because this (and the info on your converter conversion) is extremely helpful.

Lastly, I can't find the dual 1400 anywhere on the bargman site. Do i need to troll the web and ebay, or do you know a source with some... :)

Thanks so much.

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Well first off I appreciate all the info. Second, I look forward to an index when you can get to it because this (and the info on your converter conversion) is extremely helpful.

Lastly, I can't find the dual 1400 anywhere on the bargman site. Do i need to troll the web and ebay, or do you know a source with some... smile.gif

Thanks so much.

Yep, Bargman stopped production on all model 1400 lights about a year ago (I called them on the phone because I could not believe it when I got the catalog and they were no longer listed). I got the 2 units I cannibalized about 5 years ago off eBay for a very low price (NOS).

Do a google search for "bargman 1400 recessed" (no quotes). I found a couple of dealers that still listed them as being in stock. You will have to call them to make sure they still have them. You can still get lenses for them but not the housings

Don't wait too long as when they disappear, that's all she wrote.

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Yep, Bargman stopped production on all model 1400 lights about a year ago (I called them on the phone because I could not believe it when I got the catalog and they were no longer listed). I got the 2 units I cannibalized about 5 years ago off eBay for a very low price (NOS).

Do a google search for "bargman 1400 recessed" (no quotes). I found a couple of dealers that still listed them as being in stock. You will have to call them to make sure they still have them. You can still get lenses for them but not the housings

Don't wait too long as when they disappear, that's all she wrote.

Well lenses plus your wiring mods might make a heap of difference. That and some elbow grease on the old metal reflectors... I have some aux. backup lights already.... Thanks so much!

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That's a nice tail assembly restoration. You do nice work.

Ya, have read all the pages you've linked at toymike.com throughout this forum and have found them very informative and fun reads and would be interested in browsing more too. What about an index dump of your pages maybe? On my dropdown address bar, I have converter and diesel directories only. Anything else juicy to check out at toymike.com?

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  • 10 months later...

Ok, so I've committed to building a new set of tail lights.

I'm using these LED Tail Lights and just went over to TAP Plastics to have them fabricate a face frame to match the outside dimensions of the old Reflect O Lite 1400s with cut outs for the new LEDs. They're using a 1/8" ivory acrylic, although we may opt for 3/16" if it is too flimsy.

The remaining challenge is what to do about the resistance issue. Has anyone found/used a modern flasher in a 1990-era Toy? :help:

I can't seem to find a definitive answer in my searches today. I'd prefer to avoid the resistor option, if for no other reason than I don't really like the idea of mounting something inside the rig that is going to get hot like a light bulb.

Suggestions greatly appreciated. I'll post pics later this week when I get the frames back from TAP and put them together with the lights. I think it will be slick and far superior. Not cheap, but should last for a good long time.

-andrew

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Apologies if this has been covered fully before but I've been unable to find the answer.

The tail lights on my Sunrader (the 1400s) are fully functional, but between the lenses and the oxidation on the reflectors, just not as bright (nor as quick to light) as more contemporary units.

I've been considering a full replacement to a modern LED light set from Bargman---perhaps doing some fabrication in aluminum to fit the smaller modern set into the larger opening in my rig. I've also seen LED bulb replacements and I expect I could find some new lenses with some online effort.

Anyone have a great answer/approach to an upgrade or, alternately, ways to get the most out of the existing assemblies? I've tried polishing the reflectors, for example, but with minimal success.

thanks!

What are the actual lens numbers? Here is a 1400 series lens http://www.rvshop.com/Reflect-O-Lite-1400-Replacement-Lens-Red-34-14-010_p_72204.html Better measure the lens though

And I thought our Sunrader had the 86 series tail lights. http://www.bargman.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid=8201&catID=8280&part=30-86-001

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Ok, so I've committed to building a new set of tail lights.

I'm using these LED Tail Lights and just went over to TAP Plastics to have them fabricate a face frame to match the outside dimensions of the old Reflect O Lite 1400s with cut outs for the new LEDs. They're using a 1/8" ivory acrylic, although we may opt for 3/16" if it is too flimsy.

The remaining challenge is what to do about the resistance issue. Has anyone found/used a modern flasher in a 1990-era Toy? :help:

I can't seem to find a definitive answer in my searches today. I'd prefer to avoid the resistor option, if for no other reason than I don't really like the idea of mounting something inside the rig that is going to get hot like a light bulb.

Suggestions greatly appreciated. I'll post pics later this week when I get the frames back from TAP and put them together with the lights. I think it will be slick and far superior. Not cheap, but should last for a good long time.

-andrew

How close a fit are these bargman http://www.bargman.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid=8201&catID=8280&part=30-86-001

And yo need the flasher for LED tail lights. I think they are about $30 from just about any auto parts store. Don't try to mess around with resistors. Bought one for our 91 so I know they are out there!

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How close a fit are these bargman http://www.bargman.c...&part=30-86-001

And yo need the flasher for LED tail lights. I think they are about $30 from just about any auto parts store. Don't try to mess around with resistors. Bought one for our 91 so I know they are out there!

Ok, I'll post some pics in a bit. I'm using the superbright units and i have the plastic frames cut. The one challenge is that the LED housings are just slightly deeper than the original, so I'll either have to go back to TAP and have thicker frames made, or remove some material from the backside of the interior wall. I think the latter may actually be fairly easy -- just use an auger bit. The superbright units make an amazing difference.

Greg --I know this is a total NOOB question, but where is the flasher located?

I don't see it by the fuses. And at the auto parts store will they understand 'flasher for LEDs"??

Thanks!

andrew

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Ok, so I had some time to put together the first side today. The plexiglass (1/8th inch) works just fine. If I were to do it over again, I'd definitely go thicker -- maybe 1/4" just for the stiffness and to gain some extra clearance in back. I wound up using an auger drill to scrape out a little space for the plugs on the back of the LED units, as they were just enough deeper than the original to keep everything from snugging up tight.

The assembly is really simple, as the grommets fit easily into the holes and fiddling the lights into their slots within the grommets is simple too. Wiring is all the easier with the new pigtails.

post-3411-0-78702800-1298857510_thumb.jp

post-3411-0-28683800-1298857525_thumb.jp

post-3411-0-85258700-1298857538_thumb.jp

post-3411-0-25741200-1298857573_thumb.jp

Half way done. And WOW, what a difference. The amount of light coming off these is terrific in comparison to the old bulbs. This is a really easy fix to vastly improve visibility on the road.

andrew

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Ok, so I had some time to put together the first side today. The plexiglass (1/8th inch) works just fine. If I were to do it over again, I'd definitely go thicker -- maybe 1/4" just for the stiffness and to gain some extra clearance in back. I wound up using an auger drill to scrape out a little space for the plugs on the back of the LED units, as they were just enough deeper than the original to keep everything from snugging up tight.

[snip]

andrew

So, thicker plastic would eliminate having to auger? What did TAP charge? And what did the good Doctor charge for sealing those front windows? We are using the same carpet as you but having issues with the contact cement just soaking in. Any ideas on that? Kim

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So, thicker plastic would eliminate having to auger? What did TAP charge? And what did the good Doctor charge for sealing those front windows? We are using the same carpet as you but having issues with the contact cement just soaking in. Any ideas on that? Kim

Hi Kim,

I'm wondering if you got the solvent based or the water based contact cement? If it is the water based, I'd chuck it and start over. The solvent based glue will stay on the surface of the carpet and adheres really well. As I recall it is in the red can (vs. green for the waterbased stuff).

I think the reseal of the front windows was about $400 and so far they are water tight (1 season). I think Dr. G is about 100/hr so 4 hours of work is pretty reasonable for a sticky, goey job. They did nice work too -- little if any overrun of the sealant. And I believe he stocks some of the windows too (shh!).

Give a shout on email if you have any other questions. flatspin at yahoo dot com. just make sure to put sunrader in the subject line so i know it is a trusted source :)

andrew

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So, thicker plastic would eliminate having to auger? What did TAP charge? And what did the good Doctor charge for sealing those front windows? We are using the same carpet as you but having issues with the contact cement just soaking in. Any ideas on that? Kim

Tap was something like 80 bucks for the custom cutting and the plexi. And yes, going with a thicker material (maybe as thick as 1/2") would give better clearance for the pigtails and eliminate any mucking around inside. I would definitely do that if I had it to do over again, because the custom cuts were the expensive part. The material is just a fraction of the price.

Now I'm off to save pennies to redo the clearance lights with LED units. Such a big difference.

-andrew

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Beautiful lights, congratulations.

Tap was something like 80 bucks for the custom cutting and the plexi. And yes, going with a thicker material (maybe as thick as 1/2") would give better clearance for the pigtails and eliminate any mucking around inside. I would definitely do that if I had it to do over again, because the custom cuts were the expensive part. The material is just a fraction of the price.

Now I'm off to save pennies to redo the clearance lights with LED units. Such a big difference.

-andrew

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Beautiful lights, congratulations.

Tap was something like 80 bucks for the custom cutting and the plexi. And yes, going with a thicker material (maybe as thick as 1/2") would give better clearance for the pigtails and eliminate any mucking around inside. I would definitely do that if I had it to do over again, because the custom cuts were the expensive part. The material is just a fraction of the price.

Now I'm off to save pennies to redo the clearance lights with LED units. Such a big difference.

-andrew

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Beautiful lights, congratulations.

Thanks Doc. Little by little goes the endless project. Gotta get it shipshape for the 2011 Tour of California!

andrew

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